Long Memories In Small Towns

Bring a song and a smile for the banjo,

Better get while the gettin's good,

Hitch a ride to the end of the highway,

Where the neon turns to wood.

C'mon the risin' wind,

We're goin' up around the bend,

Oooh!

Up Around The Bend, John Fogerty (1970).

Mrs. Joyce Rathje, 92 years young, recently retired school teacher at Rising City, Nebraska.

Admittedly, I've been a Point A to Point B traveler for so long that it's my default mindset. What's the fastest, most direct route to drive to my destination? Got to be efficient. Got to get there. Things to do. People to see. Let's go. Time is short.

Since pedaling across the country on the back roads of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (See, 2021 GDMBR), however, I find myself more often taking local roads, slow rolling through small towns, checking out city parks, and even stopping for a meal at a local cafe. It's always worth it.

Sometimes, the back road route creates a highlight of the trip. Even a drive to a back road bike ride.

Memorial marking the Rising City K-12 school, long since removed.
The auditorium in the background is still used by the multi-town school district.

Earlier this fall, I fashioned a road trip that included a long weekend in Marysville, Kansas for the Pony Express 2 Day Bikepacking Adventure. See, 2022 Pony Express Bikepack. Starting the Kansas portion of the trip from Eastern South Dakota, I consider several routes to drive the remaining 250-ish miles. I decide to venture south of Yankton on U.S. Highway 81, at least until it turns westward. Then I'll take a few local roads 40-50 miles east and south to eventually connect with U.S. Highway 77 just outside Lincoln. It seems like a reasonably direct route on a nice mix of roads.

A few hours down the road, after neglecting to get gas in Columbus, I find myself looking to refuel in the midst of little but corn fields. Finally, a few buildings appear along the road, one of which is a gas station. Hey, it's actually a small town called Rising City, Nebraska, population 413. Well over 40 years ago, my wife's oldest brother married a girl from Rising City. Maybe I'll surprise her with a picture of her old school.

While at the gas pump, I notice the car next to me sports Nebraska license plates. Since my Great Divide ride, striking up random conversations with complete strangers is now second nature. So I ask the lady there if she knows where I can find the Rising City school, so I can take a picture for my sister-in-law. 

The lady politely asks, "She grew up here? What's her name?" 

"Dulcie." 

"Dulcie Gross. I was her kindergarten teacher. I'm Mrs. Rathje."

I stood in disbelief. How does this nice old lady remember a student from her kindergarten class 60 years ago? Mrs. Rathje simply goes on, noting Dulcie's musical talent and quiet nature. Amazing.

Mrs. Rathje then adds that the old school was torn down years ago when Rising City joined a multi-town school district, although the old gymnasium still is used. She also said she wasn't about to tell me where Dulcie lived, because that house has fallen into such disrepair that it would "break her heart." 

She says she's sorry, but she must be going. At 92 years young, still driving her car and living in her house, she leaves to care for a couple of her great grandkids. Amazing. If not for her family commitments, I think she'd hop on a bike for a tour around town.

The entrance to the Rising City school gymnasium.

A few weeks later, I tell Dulcie of my encounter with Mrs. Rathje and show her these pictures. Of course, she remembers her former teacher and joyfully talks of growing up in her hometown. Dulcie is not a bit surprised by Mrs. Rathje's overall spryness and vivid memory. Besides, says Dulcie, "Small towns have long memories sometimes."

This traveler will certainly remember this stop in a small town along a back road.

Up Around The Bend, Credence Clearwater Revival (1970).

Looking For Black Hills Bounty

Sweet dreams are made of this

Who am I to disagree

I travel the world and the seven seas

Everybody's looking for something.

Sweet Dreams, Annie Lennox & Dave Stewart (1983)

Scouting back roads in search of the Black Hills Bounty.

The Black Hills Bounty is my name for a 5 day, remote, rough road bikepacking tour of the Black Hills of South Dakota that I am designing for cycling buddy Paul Brasby. Later this year, I plan to ride it with Paul, along with a few other friends from Nebraska. Afterward, I'll post a ride report with pictures and digital maps.

For now, I'll describe the daily rides in mileage, elevation gain, and road type so that Paul and his friends know something of what lies ahead and can prepare. To preserve an element of surprise and discovery for them, I'll wait to reveal the details of the route until shortly before we start.

As currently configured, the Black Hills Bounty bikepacking route covers about 300 miles and gains about 25,000 feet of elevation gain over 5 days, with little deviation. In other words, it's about 60 miles and 5,000 feet of elevation gain every day for 5 days. Overall, the mileage is split pretty evenly between USFS Primary, Secondary, and Low Standard roads, with the exception of one day that is primarily paved. For descriptions and illustrations of what those types of roads look like in the Black Hills, go to my prior post The Good, The Bad & The Ugly.

As I confirmed this route, I kept adding more rough Low Standard roads to connect things and to dive a little bit more remote. So, mileage is reduced from earlier drafts, but the degree of difficulty per mile is increased. For me, this is a mountain bike tour, for tires and gearing, except for the primarily paved day.

Here's the overall outline, with one photograph somewhere along the route for each day and a break down of mileage of each type of road for the day. Further changes, if any, are likely to be minor.

Day 0  Disperse camp off a Primary road deep in the Black Hills.

Day 1  (62 miles/5,268 feet) 3 miles paved/21 miles Primary/26 miles Secondary/12 miles Low Standard.

Day 2  (68 miles/4,280 feet) 1 mile paved/29 miles Primary/16 miles Secondary/22 miles Low Standard.

Day 3  (57 miles/6,220 feet) 48 miles paved/9 miles Primary.

Day 4  (60 miles/4,398 feet) 11 miles paved/32 miles Primary/11 miles Secondary/6 miles Low Standard.

Day 5  (43 miles/4,636 feet) 1 mile paved/15 miles Primary/4 miles Secondary/23 miles Low Standard.

5 day Total = 290 miles/24,802 feet. Or, about 58 miles/4,960 feet of elevation gain per day average.

Day 0. Disperse camp deep in the Black Hills off a Primary road like this one.

Drive to camp along a ridge with panoramic views.

Day 1 (62 miles/5,268 feet) 3 miles paved/21 miles Primary/26 miles Secondary/12 miles Low Standard.

Rougher roads earlier, with steady, not crazy steep climbing to disperse camp with big views.

Day 2 (68 miles/4,280 feet) 1 mile paved/29 miles Primary/16 miles Secondary/22 miles Low Standard.

Rougher roads early, then tunnels and an abandoned gold mine, with a downhill finish to Custer.

Day 3 (57 miles/6,220 feet) 48 miles paved/9 miles Primary.

Unloaded bike day, riding a paved/fast gravel loop starting and ending in Custer.

(Yes, that's Mt. Rushmore as you ride through a one lane tunnel)

Day 4 (60 miles/4,398 feet) 11 miles paved/32 miles Primary/11 miles Secondary/6 miles Low Standard.

Fast gravel onto buffalo patrolled prairie, then back into the forest, rough road to disperse camp remote.

Day 5 (43 miles/4,636 feet) 1 mile paved/15 miles Primary/4 miles Secondary/23 miles Low Standard.

Fast gravel warmup, then steady climbing on rougher roads all the way back to the start.

So, that's what I've been working on.

What fun, memorable, challenging routes lie waiting for you to create in your neck of the woods?

Sweet Dreams, Eurythmics (1983)

Black Hills Back Roads - The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

The way back to town is only 70 miles. If you save your breath, I feel a man like you can manage it.
Blondie encouraging Tuco, The Good, The Bad & The Ugly (1966)

The United States Forest Service (USFS) categorizes the roads within its boundaries as "Primary Routes," "Secondary Routes," or "Low Standard Routes." That's it. Just three categories for the staggering variety of roads in the backcountry, even just here in the Black Hills National Forest. 

Well, it's a start. Here's a USFS graphic introducing each category of roads in our National Forests.

As an introduction to understanding these categories of roads in the Black Hills, here are some of my general observations, with representative photographs. Whatever the USFS calls them and however I describe them, every road in the Black Hills will deliver a variety of riding conditions and challenges that change over time. Your eyes on the road and tires on the ground are the best way to know these roads.

Note that the USFS manages extensive logging operations in selected parts of the Black Hills. In large part, that's why most of these roads exist. Yield to all traffic out there, but especially the big logging trucks. And be thankful to be able to ride on the seemingly unlimited roads resulting from their work.

The Good (USFS Primary Route)

The most developed non-paved road in the USFS system is the Primary road, which is designed, built, and maintained for year around, regular travel by standard passenger cars. In the Black Hills, the surface of these roads typically is moderately graveled, hard packed local dirt and limestone that drains water well and generally does not instantly clog, at least not like Iowa top soil, Nebraska talc, or Oklahoma clay. Some roads are treated with Magnesium Chloride, which hardens and stabilizes the surface.

Primary roads generally are wide enough for opposing motorized traffic to pass easily. If enough gravel exists to form tracks, there would be three or even four. Often a small shoulder will accumulate a bit more gravel that has been pushed off to the side. Relatively high speed vehicle traffic may create washboards and pockets of loose gravel in spots, especially around curves and corners.

My ride of choice for Primary roads is my Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross bike with 40 mm Schwalbe G-One tires. Even when loaded for multi-day bikepacking, the Black Mountain provides plenty of support and control to comfortably ride all day. Relatively speaking, these gravel roads are fast.

On USFS maps and signage, a Primary road is designated by brown sign with a number enclosed in a rounded corner, isosceles trapezoid having the longer parallel side on top, as shown below for Boles Canyon Road (117).

The following photographs are representative of USFS Primary roads in the Black Hills.

The Bad (USFS Secondary Route)

The next level of developed, non-paved roads in the USFS system is the Secondary road, which is maintained for high clearance vehicles. In the Black Hills, Secondary USFS roads typically are similar in composition to Primary roads, that is, hard packed dirt and limestone that handles water well and does not overly clog. However, the surface may be even less graveled, or just occasionally graveled, or not graveled at all. Almost certainly, it will not be treated with Magnesium Chloride. Foremost, that means Secondary roads are more susceptible to mud when wet and ruts when dry.

Due to less maintenance, Secondary roads also sport occasional loose dirt, exposed surface rock, pot holes, standing water, and fallen timber, while presenting sharper turns, steeper gradients, and shorter sight lines. Also, Secondary roads typically are two tracks wide, often with little to no shoulder. If a motorized vehicle approaches, I typically pull off the road to allow it to pass. For logging trucks, I definitely leave the road.

All that being said, many Secondary roads in the Black Hills are passable in dry weather in passenger cars, if attentive to occasional obstacles and clearance issues. For example, I confirmed my cue sheets for the entire Black Hills BackBone route driving my 2006 Chevrolet HHR, hardly a high clearance vehicle. Over the 310 mile route, with many miles of Secondary roads, I maneuvered around a few high-center issues and only had to skirt one fallen tree blocking the road. These roads can be fast, but stay alert.

My ride of choice for most Black Hills Secondary roads is still my Black Mountain MonsterCross with 40 mm tires. These roads may be rougher and mountain bike type gearing may be helpful in spots, but most of these roads are developed enough for me on that "gravel" bike. On the other hand, if loaded for a multi-day ride with significant miles of Secondary roads, I may well opt for my Jones 29+ with bigger tires.

On USFS maps and signage, a Secondary road is designated by a three or four digit number enclosed in a brown, rounded corner rectangular sign, as shown below for Williams Draw Road (691).

The following photographs show three USFS Secondary roads in the Black Hills.

The Ugly (USFS Low Standard Route)

The third level of developed, non-paved road in the USFS system is the Low Standard road, which is unimproved and not maintained for automobiles. The Forest Service recommends travel by vehicles with both high clearance and four wheel drive. I would add driver prudence and experience.

Design, construction, and maintenance of Low Standard roads are all over the map, even along a single numbered road. Some sections may be soft dirt, while others are rock gardens. If wet, standing water and mud can be a real issue, leaving deep ruts when dry. Maybe a load of chunky rock was dumped to stabilize a low spot, or maybe not and there's a stream to ford. They are rough, sometimes little more than a bull dozed logging trail. For me, this is mountain bike territory, for tires and gears, even unloaded, for anything more than a short connector.

Many, many, many are dead-end spurs that were built to get to a spot for logging. Maybe some spurs later connect to something else and haven't made it on a map, or maybe not. I often refer to the USFS Motorized Vehicle Use Maps, which are updated every year and prove to be pretty accurate. However you navigate, count on no cell coverage and no passing traffic of any kind. You are on your own.

If you like this kind of riding, the Black Hills offer a lifetime of miles to explore.

On USFS signage, a Low Standard road is designated with a three-digit number vertically imprinted on short, 4 inch wide, brown carbonite post. On USFS maps, it's just a plain three-digit number. The designation of any road emanating from that Low Standard road adds a decimal and another number. For example, in the Black Hills, USFS 278.1 runs off of USFS 278. Then, any roads running off of USFS 278.1 get letters, the first being USFS 278.1A, then 278.1B, and so on. It can be confusing in the field and USFS map navigation is an entirely separate subject. Just know that any carbonite USFS road sign with a three-digit number, or with decimal numbers, or with letters, identifies a Low Standard Road.

Shown below is a sign for Low Standard road 242, and then one for Low Standard road 325.1D.

The following photographs show a sampling of USFS Low Standard roads in the Black Hills. I captured all of these images while riding, with the sole exception of the last photograph, which Lucas Haan provided as an example of a deposit of chunky gravel. I included more photographs of Low Standard roads because of their great variety.

Here's a fun rendition of Ennio Morricone's 1966 composition of music for the movie "The Good, The Bad And The Ugly," performed by the Danish National Symphony Orchestra in 2018.

The Good, The Bad And The Ugly, Danish National Symphony Orchestra (2018)