O'Neil Pass to Camp Crook Road (part 2)

The Black Hills DoubleBackBone route flows from the BackBone finish at NothingThere, Nebraska along a sweeping loop of rugged, remote roads in the Western Black Hills back up to the heights of O'Neil Pass. U.S. Forest Service secondary roads cover most of these miles, connected with a few primary and several primitive roads. This route gets out there, and then up there. I like it a lot and I'm sticking with it.

Unfortunately, the DoubleBackBone cannot continue as a loop from O'Neil Pass, without losing its character. Too much pavement, too much development, too much traffic, too much Wyoming. So, I'm dropping the arbitrary notion of a single loop. I'm going with a great route that I know well.

Of course, that route is the Black Hills BackBone. So, from O'Neil Pass, the DoubleBackBone will backtrack on the BackBone route to Spearfish, east around Orman Dam and back up to U.S. Highway 85 by Harding Road and Camp Crook Road. As a result, a map of the DoubleBackBone will look like a large balloon south of O'Neil Pass and a large balloon north of Belle Fouche, connected by a string.


Climbing up Lookout Mountain Road from Spearfish.

Yes, Robbie Sorge, that means a return to Tinton Road, that dust-choking, tourist-trafficked sludge of a climb from Spearfish on the Black Hills BackBone. But this time, it's almost all downhill. And it's now only 17 miles on Tinton Road before turning onto Higgins Gulch. So, saddle up, cowboy.

From U.S. Highway 85, turn north on Tinton Road (134) over a couple of surprising rollers before the long descent to Spearfish. After 16.9 miles, veer west on Higgins Gulch Road (214) to continue the quick descent for another 12.1 miles. Eventually, Higgins Gulch Road T-bones into paved Hills View Road on the northwestern outskirts of Spearfish.

Turn east on Hills View Road for 2.5 miles to U.S. Highway 85. Stop. Before turning north toward the Northern Prairie, check supplies and gear. Spearfish is the largest town on the entire DoubleBackBone route, offering convenience stores, grocery stores, restaurants, motels, a city campground, a couple of bike shops, and even a community rec center for a kettle bell or yoga class. If needed, now's the time.

When girded for the grind, ride north on U.S. Highway 85 for 1.7 miles to paved Kerwin Lane, turn east for 1.9 miles and then north back on gravel on Lookout Mountain Road. Now, we're getting back out there. Pay attention on the sharp descent off Lookout Mountain Road, which is greasy when wet and can be rutted when dry. This stretch is reminiscent of many miles of rutted, gutted, loose, messy, steep dirt roads at the legendary Odin's Revenge gravel race.


After 2.8 miles on Lookout Mountain Road, turn east on St. Onge Cutoff Road (196th Street) for a hilly, curvy spin through pastoral cattle and horse properties. A quick 4.0 miles later, turn south on paved U.S. Highway 34 for 1.9 miles to the one bar town of St. Onge. This is the last chance commercial establishment until Camp Crook, nearly 100 miles of open prairie to the north.

From St. Onge, turn east on Sale Barn Road, which is paved for about 0.5 mile, improves to gravel for about 0.2 miles and then turns 90 degrees north on gravelly dirt for another 2.2 miles. Virtually impassable when wet, this minimum maintenance road is specifically included as a tribute to the founding father of the modern gravel grinder, Mark Stevenson and his Trans Iowa gravel race.

Sale Barn Road is all minimum maintenance, all the time.

Turn north on Crooked Oaks Road for 5.6 miles of sweet, hilly gravel through groves of oak and past a pioneer era cemetery. Then it's west on more heavily traveled and heavily graveled Snowma Road for a short 0.7 miles, before turning north on Fruitdale Road for 2.8 miles. Midway along this stretch lies Fruitdale, a collection of inhabited buildings in various states of disarray, but no commercial establishments. Continue north through Fruitdale to T-bone with U.S. Highway 212 and turn east for 1.7 miles to paved Arpan Road.

(Crooked) Oaks Road? Or (Crooked Oaks) Road? Both work.

Riding north on Arpan Road, the DoubleBackBone rolls past small ranches and irrigation channels supplied by the Belle Fouche Reservoir. Shade is small and infrequent, as it will remain until the North Dakota border 120+ miles away. After 12.9 miles, turn west on Brooker Road for 7.3 miles of small rollers to merge with U.S. Highway 85.  Stay west on U.S. Highway 85 for 2.4 miles to Camp Crook Road.

Finally, we're ready to set sail into the Northern Prairie.

O'Neil Pass to Camp Crook Road (part 1)

In creating the Black Hills DoubleBackBone route, it's all been great fun so far. But as that famous philosopher Mike Tyson observed, "Evr'budy got a plan, til ya get punched in tha face."

With an abundance of rugged, remote roads in the Wild, Wild Western Black Hills, the hard call so far has been between better and best. But now, sitting triumphantly atop O'Neil Pass, to continue as a loop toward that Dakota Marker on the border, the choices are poor and marginal.

I want a loop. One big, bad loop. But not at any cost. So, what's the plan, now?

The original Black Hills BackBone enters the Black Hills from Spearfish over O'Neil Pass for several reasons, not the least of which is climbing over this 6,683 foot pass on remote roads in South Dakota. Route Tweaks & Cue Sheets. The DoubleBackBone deserves the same.

So, the DoubleBackBone does not skirt O'Neil Pass, but scales it from the South en route to NoWhere, North Dakota. The back country roads in the Western Black Hills are a sight to see and a joy to ride. Now, atop O'Neil Pass, the DoubleBackBone must find its way to Camp Crook Road, some 11 miles north of the cow town of Belle Fouche, while retaining its rugged, remote road character.

Of course, the easy path is paved. Just coast down Spearfish Canyon Scenic Highway 14A into Spearfish, hack your way through the middle of town and survive the oil field traffic on U.S. Highway 85 to Belle Fouche, plus 11 miles beyond.  Yeah, well, that's not happening.

Options of descending O'Neil Pass to the West are appropriately remote for the DoubleBackBone and fun to ride, including the ambitiously named "Grand Canyon of the Black Hills." However, the public roads wander into Wyoming for many miles and do not connect north up to Camp Crook Road without significant pavement and higher traffic. There is much to explore out there, but it doesn't fit the DoubleBackBone.

To the East lie many possibilities, some stretches of which are a lot of fun to ride. Lucas Haan certainly struck gold with Cracker Jack Road and Avalanche Road just north of Sturgis in the first race of last year's Black Hills Gravel Series. But those stretches, and others like them, are relatively short and isolated. Connecting such roads to the DoubleBackBone extracts a high cost with long bouts of pavement, commercial and residential development, and traffic. Again, that overall vibe is not consistent with the rest of this remote road route.

Back to the drawing board.

As a start, I love the Black Hills BackBone route. I've ridden every mile of it. Many of those miles I've ridden many times. It goes where it goes for reasons. It's a keeper.

The DoubleBackBone began with the idea of riding from the finish of the BackBone at the Nebraska border back to North Dakota through the amazingly rough, rugged and remote roads of the western Black Hills up to O'Neil Pass. So far, so great. I also knew that Camp Crook Road north of Belle Fouche to the outpost of Camp Crook starts a nice loop on the Northern Prairie that extends almost to the North Dakota border. That will be great, too.

The path between O'Neil Pass and Camp Crook Road is the issue. Now, what.

Jewel Cave National Monument to O'Neil Pass

North of Jewel Cave National Monument, the Black Hills DoubleBackBone climbs into the western reaches of the Central Black Hills through the most remote country around these parts. Best to rely on self sufficiency, not cell service. This stretch is not for the ill-prepared or the inattentive.

Out here, an alphabet soup of federal, state and local agencies manage the roads and trails, so names and numbers can be confusing. However, the DoubleBackBone keeps it simple. First off, the route explores remote roads, not trails.  And it stays on local county roads or U.S. Forest Service roads that are "primary" (suitable for passenger cars), "secondary"  (generally suitable for passenger vehicles) and "primitive" (suitable for high clearance vehicles). No skid trails. Also, the DoubleBackBone follows fun Forest Service roads that are identified by whole numbers only. So, if you find yourself on a Forest Service road with a number containing a decimal (like 383.3), or with a number and a letter (like 383D), or both (like 383.3D), you may be having fun, but you're not on the DoubleBackBone. It's not complicated to stay on course, if you pay attention.

Digging deep into the western Black Hills on a primitive Forest Service road.

From U.S. Highway 16, turn north onto Mud Springs Road (282) for a steady climb for 2.7 miles to Antelope Ridge Road (283), which flows directly into the heart of the area still recovering from the massive 83,000+ acre Jasper Fire in 2000. Much of the sweeping panorama along this road was formed or enlarged by that fire. In the relatively dry southern Black Hills, the forest returns slowly.

Riding directly through the 2000 Jasper Fire zone on a typical secondary Forest Service road.

Ride west on Antelope Ridge Road (283) for 5.4 miles and then turn east on Custer Limestone Road (284), the first primary Forest Service road of this section. A more refined surface and some hills make for a couple of pretty quick descents. Be alert at 3.4 miles for a numbered, unnamed brown sign (383), where the route turns north. This primitive Forest Service road is mostly dirt two track gradually moving upstream through a valley.

Just rolling along on the Black Hills DoubleBackBone.

Riding generally north on USFS 383, the DoubleBackBone rolls up and occasionally down a valley, in and out of trees, along and across creeks and through meadows. Back here, the mind easily wanders. That's great, but make sure to stay on USFS 383 and not drift off on a side trip to oblivion.

After 5.1 miles on USFS 383, turn west on Gillette Canyon Road (296), a secondary forest gravel road that will smooth out your ride for a spell.  Just 6.5 miles later, Gillette Canyon Road (296) T-bones into Six Mile Road (301), another secondary USFS road that handles its share of the logging traffic from these parts. It's not a super highway, but you may see a truck or two here.

Remote as it gets around here, climbing along the DoubleBackBone.

In any event, the DoubleBackBone follows Six Mile Road (301) just 2.2 miles before turning north onto Briggs Spring Road (384), another primitive Forest Service road flowing north up a long meadow. Although more dirt than gravel, Briggs Spring Road (384) is relatively smooth and quick, when dry.

These 3 miles pass quickly and the route turns west on South Castle Creek Road (294), another secondary Forest Service road. Immediately to the north, one may consider the mile long spur to the north to Red Bank Springs, a primitive Forest Service Campground. Unfortunately, Red Bank Springs does not have any water for the weary cyclist.

Aspen lined meadows high in the Central Black Hills.

After 1.3 miles on South Castle Creek Road (294), turn north onto Boles Canyon Road (117), a primary Forest Service road. Open the throttle for a long, winding climb on smooth forest gravel. The route intersects with several other roads, but stay on Boles Canyon Road (117) for 15.9 miles until finally reaching South Rapid Creek Road (231). 

Forest Service roads built primarily for logging and fire management.

Almost there. Turn west onto South Rapid Creek Road (231) for 2.8 miles, then east onto O'Neil Pass Road (also numbered 231 on the sign) for 0.8 miles to T-bone onto U.S. Highway 85, the Can-Am Highway. Here, the DoubleBackBone route turns east on this pavement for 1.7 miles before heading north again, then onto Tinton Road (134).

However, before making that turn toward Tinton Road, check your water. It's been about 50 miles since Jewel Cave National Monument and another 30 miles remain to Spearfish before a commercial establishment of any kind is on this route. Although other sources of water may be available along the way, or just off the way, here one may turn west on U.S. Highway 85 for about a mile to Trails Head Lodge for access to water and snacks.

Edgemont to Jewel Cave National Monument

Out of the rolling prairie around Edgemont, the DoubleBackBone dives into the hardscrabble canyons of the Southern Black Hills, gradually climbing through rough country up increasingly more forested hills. When this forest gravel is dry, it can be fast, but no commercial services are anywhere near. So, be self-sufficient and, if needed at the end of this 51 mile stretch, take a short side-trip to Jewel Cave National Monument for water and snacks.

Red Canyon Road north of Edgemont leads into the Southern Black Hills.

From Edgemont, ride east on paved U.S. Highway 18 for 2.5 miles, then turn north onto Red Canyon Road (Fall River County Road 15) for 9.4 miles of twisty, rolling forest gravel through Red Canyon and its multiple flash flood draws. Cattle roam freely throughout these open range canyons, as do elk and deer. Over time, wind and water have carved unique geologic formations, including some arches, into the surrounding canyon walls. Although this area has the unmistakeable feel of the Black Hills, it's definitely different from the developed tourist and recreational centers further north.

Common sign on Red Canyon Road, signaling a re-enforced flash flood drainage in the draw ahead.

After a rollicking 9.4 miles, Red Canyon Road T-bones into Pilger Mountain Road (317). Turn west to meander along a valley and up a ridge, leaving behind the flash flood draws of the canyons and heading into the Hills, with bigger views opening toward the south. After 8.3 miles on Pilger Mountain Road (317), turn east onto Pleasant Valley Road (715) for some faster gravel on a more developed road. There may even be a truck or two from one of the active, large ranches out here.

Hardscrabble canyons grudgingly give way to rolling hills with more trees.

After just 6.6 miles on Pleasant Valley Road (715), watch for this next turn, west onto Richardson Cutoff Road (276), a primitive Forest Service road. This does not look much like a gravel road and it's not. But it's great fun to ride. Keep an eye and ear out for the possibility of other traffic, however, as this rough road passes the Richardson Trail Head, which accesses a popular ATV trail system.

Dropping into Richardson Cutoff Road, a rough one that gets rougher.

The rugged 5.4 miles of Richardson Cutoff (276) pass too quickly and T-bone into Pass Creek Road (273). Turn west on faster forest gravel for some wandering miles, with more climbing than descending. After 10.7 miles on Pass Creek Road (273), turn north onto Mann Road (270) for 8.6 miles to U.S. Highway 16. The DoubleBackBone route turns east on this pavement for 0.5 miles before heading north again, now onto Mud Springs Road (282).

Climbing toward Jewel Cave National Monument.
This is a good representation of forest gravel on secondary National Forest roads in the Black Hills.

However, before making that turn onto Mud Springs Road (282), check your water. It's been over 50 miles since Edgemont and another 80 miles remain to Spearfish before a commercial establishment of any kind is on this route. Although other sources of water may be available along the way, or just off the way, here one may continue east on U.S. Highway 16 for another 2 miles to the entrance for Jewel Cave National Monument for access to water and snacks.

NothingThere, Nebraska to Edgemont

Starting at the stop sign finish of the Black Hills BackBone, this section of the DoubleBackBone swings west through Buffalo Gap National Grasslands before angling north to the railroad town of Edgemont. Wide open prairie translates to stark exposure and long sight lines. It's hard to miss the herds of cattle, but watch for the wary pronghorn and majestic elk that patrol these lands. With big views through rolling, hard-packed gravel, these fifty miles can pass quickly, unless of course the winds pick up, the rains fall or the sun comes out.

Winding down to the railroad town of Edgemont nestled in the distant trees.

From the start, head west on Dakota Line Road for 3 miles and then north for a mile, before turning west on East Ardmore Road for 13 miles to the ghost town of Ardmore. A few of the buildings in Ardmore appear to be occupied, but there are many abandoned structures and no commercial establishments. If you need water before Edgemont, still about 33 miles away, knocking on a door here may be an option. I plan to ride straight through, other than perhaps stopping for a moment to snap a picture.

The long anticipated Stop Sign finish of the Black Hills BackBone?
Well, yes, unless you're on the DoubleBackBone. Then it's time to turn right and head west along the Nebraska border.

Continue west on Ardmore Road for 7.8 miles and then north on Edgemont Road (Fall River County 6412) for 10.9 miles. Although the BackBone finish sits 25 miles ago, the Nebraska border is still just 2 miles to the south. Miles of open prairie lie ahead, with but a few man-made structures.

Solitary building, perhaps an abandoned school house, on Edgemont Road, about 4 miles north of the Nebraska border.
Makes one wonder about life on the prairie as a kid. There are no other buildings in sight.

To avoid an 8 mile pavement run into Edgemont, the DoubleBackBone stays on gravel by turning back east on South Highway 471 for 3 miles, north on Plum Creek Road (Fall River County 65) for 4 miles, and west on Indian Canyon Road (Fall River County 3292) for 2 miles. This is good, fast, prairie gravel with few other options, so navigation is straightforward.

Turn north on Lookout Road (Fall River County 6) for a twisty 4 miles that eventually T-bones into paved Highway 471 for a short coast into Edgemont. Stay on Highway 471 through town to U.S. Highway 18 at the north end.

Small herd of elk just off a gravel road south of Edgemont.

Edgemont sports a spartan city campground with showers on the south end of town, a bar and grill on main street, a motel for those so inclined and convenience stores on the north end of town. Enjoy the amenities and stock up on supplies. The next town on the Black Hills DoubleBackBone route is Spearfish, about 130 miles and more than a few thousand feet of climbing away.

Imagine a DoubleBackBone

Spanning the height of the State of South Dakota on 310 miles of remote back country gravel and dirt roads, the Black Hills BackBone creates a host of challenges for the adventurous cyclist. One not to overlook is just getting to the start at NoWhere, North Dakota and from the finish at NothingThere, Nebraska. From Rapid City, it's a three hour drive one way to the start and two hours one way from the finish.

How to eliminate those long shuttle drives? Make the route into a loop and start where convenient.

Imagine, if you will, riding along the original Black Hills BackBone route to the stop sign finish at the Nebraska border. Celebrate for a moment and certainly snap a few pictures, but then head west onto Dakota Line Road to access the Wild, Wild Western reaches of the Black Hills. A serpentine network of barely used gravel and dirt roads wind generally north for a return up O'Neil Pass, before dropping onto the Northern Prairie to the North Dakota border.

Now, that's one big, bad loop. Well over 600 miles, all told.

The Black Hills DoubleBackBone.

Out there. Somewhere. On the Black Hills DoubleBackBone.

Sometimes, more is more. More rolling prairie patrolled by herds of cattle, buffalo, pronghorn and elk. More obscure canyons scoured by flash floods. More twisty ridge lines climbing to soaring views. More hills stuffed with pine and aspen. More dirt near-roads connecting with secondary Forest Service gravel. And even more remote than the easterly side of the loop, which is a bit hard to believe until you're out there. Get you some of that! Details in the posts ahead.

The Black Hills DoubleBackBone, like the original BackBone, is just a route that I think is fun and challenging, however one chooses to experience it. Solo or group. One continuous ride, a series of days or in sections over time. Self-supported, shuttled or fully supported. Maybe some combination or even all of the above.

The Black Hills DoubleBackBone. Go bigger.

Black Hills BackBone Bump

The Black Hills BackBone was a whimsical daydream that materialized into a 310 mile gravel and dirt road route spanning the height of the State of South Dakota along the spine of the Black Hills. From the Dakota Marker start at NoWhere, North Dakota to the Stop Sign finish at NothingThere, Nebraska, the Black Hills BackBone showcases the remote ruggedness of western South Dakota.

This route is out there. The first 200+ miles pass through but two towns, one of which offers little more than a bar/convenience store. There very well may be more miles without cell phone coverage than with. And in this back country, people are outnumbered by cows, and probably by deer and elk, too.

Conceived as an unsupported, solo ride, the Black Hills BackBone readily lends itself to a multi-day bikepacking ride or even a multi-day supported tour. In 2017, a small group of friends rode the entire route over three days in the heat and winds of a Fourth of July weekend. For a six part report on that ride, go to these posts. An Idea Takes Shape; Gathering; Crossing the Northern Prairie; Up and Into the Black Hills; Focus on the Finish; A Weekend to Remember.

From the broad shoulders of Flag Mountain, the granite peaks of Mount Rushmore and Harney Peak loom on the horizon.

To my knowledge, the entire Black Hills BackBone has not been ridden on a bicycle as a continuous, unsupported solo ride. That is not from lack of preparation or effort on my part. In my first attempt in 2015, I stumbled into ferocious prairie winds with horizontal rain that eventually spit me out in Spearfish 135 miles later, barely able to stand.  A Rancher's Kindness.  In my second attempt in 2016, I flew across the 135 miles of Northern Prairie in ideal conditions before plowing into a freak ice blizzard climbing O'Neil Pass, dropping me into a trail head outhouse shaking like a frozen leaf.  A Sudden Turn.  My third attempt remains undocumented, as I still cannot wrap my mind around that ride.

So, the first to complete an unsupported, continuous Black Hills BackBone will hold the course record. Whether anyone else gives it a go, or not, I'll be back out there again.

Lots of details and pictures of the Black Hills BackBone route are posted throughout this blog, if you're looking for a nice, long, remote ride. To save a trip through the blog archives, here are links to prior blog posts for the route.  Introduction;  Overview;  Final Cut; New Cue Sheets & Tweaks; BackBone Photo Essay.