It's strong and it's sudden and it's cruel sometimes,
But it might just save your life,
That's the power of love, that's the power of love.
The Power of Love, Huey Lewis, Chris Hayes, Johnny Colla (1985).
On Day 2 of his 2020 Cloud Peak 500, Paul Brasby joyfully crests the climb up Hunt Mountain. He remains the course record holder of that 500 mile bikepacking race in the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming.
Now finishing its ninth year, the Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash is a fixture on the Northern Kansas gravel cycling scene for its signature 120 mile race, its more accessible 75 mile and 30 mile routes, relay races, and a 2 day bikepacking adventure. Mark and Renee Hoffman of Backroads Bicycle, along with the City of Marysville, the Black Squirrel Cycling League, and a host of dedicated volunteers, put together a festival with something for everyone. This year, over 330 cyclists signed up for a taste of the Pony Express gravel experience.
It all started with one person.
In 2020, Paul Brasby leads out the inaugural Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash Bikepacking Adventure. (photo by Black Squirrel Cycling League)
Paul Brasby is an engineer for the Union Pacific Railroad based out of North Platte, Nebraska. Over the years, his work has regularly taken him to the railroad town of Marysville, Kansas, with scheduled layovers there of 12 hours and often longer. An avid cyclist, Paul eventually left a bicycle in Marysville to ride during such layovers and soon discovered a vast network of unique gravel and dirt roads radiating deep into the surrounding countryside. There seemingly was no end to scenic, challenging roads in every direction.
About this time, Paul and his cycling buddies discovered the burgeoning gravel road racing scene and raced the inaugural, now legendary, Odin's Revenge in 2012. Smitten by the gravel bug, Paul then competed in many other races, enjoying a wide range of experiences resulting from the free wheeling, independent spirit of race directors and riders. Inspired by those grass roots races, he decided to share the wealth of his knowledge of great back roads by creating his own race.
Recognizing the potential for amazing gravel race routes from Marysville, Paul approached Brenda Staggenborg of the Marysville Chamber of Commerce for maps of local roads and for leads to appropriate locals for help organizing a gravel race. To Paul's surprise, the Chamber itself decided to join Paul to create the Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash. In the fall of 2014, they readily filled their field limit of 75. Five years later, with rider numbers approaching 200, Paul decided to turn the entire event over to a new, growing group of local gravel enthusiasts known as the Black Squirrel Cycling League. Before leaving, however, Paul initiated the first Pony Express 2 Day Bikepacking Adventure, the latest addition to the expanding Pony Express experience. See, 2022 Pony Express Bikepack and 2020 Pony Express Bikepack.
Paul Brasby bikepacking the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route in 2021.
So, over 330 cyclists enter to ride one of the 6 ways to experience the 2022 Pony Express Gravel Dash. They flock to Marysville, Kansas (population 3,447) for a weekend festival celebrating the local gravel cycling culture. That's the result of one person, not even a local, who discovered the joy of riding rough back roads, recognized the potential for great routes out of Marysville, and worked to create an event from scratch, with no bank roll, no sponsors, no endorsements, and no experience. Paul's dedication, and resulting accomplishment, is remarkable and inspiring.
As Huey Lewis sang, "You don't need money, don't take fame, don't need no credit card to ride this train."
One person. One passion. One idea. And the courage and commitment to make it happen.
Lucas Haan, out in the Hills, leading a group through some chunky gravel.
Lucas Haan, the force of nature behind the Black Hills Gravel Series, meticulously creates each unique, back country route, provides gpx files and cue sheets for self-navigation, and offers the empowering opportunity to ride self-supported. All of this free of entry fees, elitism, and pomposity. Just show up with most any bike, wearing most anything weather appropriate, and ride. Everyone is welcomed.
To be more accurate, at each ride, three courses will be offered, increasing in length and difficulty. They're named by color: Green (10-20 miles, moderate elevation gain), Blue(20-30+ miles, moderately more elevation gain and difficulty), and Black (50+ miles, significantly more elevation gain and difficulty, likely with an added challenge). There truly is a course for every level of ability, experience, and ambition.
Sturgis 2017 - the first ride of the first season of the Black Hills Gravel Series!
This year, the Black Hills Gravel Series will not have a Group Start at a specific time. Instead, on the scheduled date, Lucas will be at the Start/Finish area from 7:30 am to 9:30 am to answer questions, talk you through the route, and to receive waivers, if you haven't electronically sent one to him. Start on your own at your own time, solo or in your group.
Lucas generally posts updated information on the FaceBook group Black Hills Gravel, but the best way to stay informed is to sign up in advance for the Series. Lucas then will send you timely emails, including waivers, gpx files, and cue sheets for each route. So, you just show up and ride.
Hill City 2018 - cyclists of all kinds ride into the back country at the Black Hills Gravel Series.
The Black Hills Gravel Series started in 2017 when Lucas created routes from 6 different start locations on 6 consecutive weekends.Folks showed up. Word got around. More folks kept showing up. See,A Six Course Feast. And it just keeps getting bigger and better.
The popularity and growth of these rides has not been fueled by local racers chasing prizes or enthusiasts chasing the latest trends. And it certainly has not been fueled by big production starts, finishes, celebrities, or awards, since there are none of the above. The Black Hills Gravel Series is simply a spring challenge to ride some unique back roads with like-minded folks in a low-key, social environment. And you know that the routes will be fun. Every one.
Spearfish 2019 - about 200 cyclists stream onto gravel at the Black Hills Gravel Series.
Enjoy these rides. Bring your family. Invite your friends. Be a part of our Black Hills cycling community.
And thank Lucas for his tireless work to make it all happen. Again. Now, for the fifth year.
Piedmont 2020 - South Dakota social distancing at the Black Hills Gravel Series.
aught simple will serve at home; but a gazing-stock is the fool who sits mid the wise, and nothing knows.
Havamal (The Words of Odin) - Wisdom for Wanderers & Counsel to Guests, v.5, Snorra Edda (anc.)
Slugging up another hill on my single speed Torelli cyclocross bike at the 2013 Odin's Revenge. (photo by Mark Stevenson)
The Buffalo Bill Rough Rider Gravel Grinder is a new event out of North Platte, Nebraska that looks to be an instant classic, with its historic setting, unique backcountry roads, and community-focused event directors and volunteers. Although the event is new, it ventures onto remote roads that enter the ancestral realm of the legendary Odin's Revenge. See, Knock, Knock, Knockin' On Odin's Door. That takes it to a whole nother level.
Just the sight of those dusty hills in a Buffalo Bill Rough Rider promotional piece resurrects a flood of memories from the race that sparked my passion for gravel riding. Back in 2013, 2014 (The Mud Year), 2015 and 2016, I cranked, pushed and dragged my bike almost 68 hours of official race time to reach 4 finish lines at Odin's Revenge. That leaves a mark.
Although beautiful, the course was relentlessly brutal. Hot, rutted, loose steeps clawed up to rolling ridge lines, before plummeting into the next canyon. Roll a bit, then back up again. Roll a bit, maybe, then down again. And again. Odin's Revenge extracted a continuous physical, mental and emotional toll, all day and into the night.
I loved it. Everything about it. The roads, the country, the event, and especially the people. I would have loved to continue that journey in 2017 and beyond. But Odin, as he is wont to do in his endless search for wisdom, wandered away from his realm and has yet to return. There's been a hole in the gravel scene ever since.
Really? Why did Odin have to plow through that hill? Well out there somewhere on the 2016 Odin's Revenge course.
But it's not all gone. I kept secure my paper cue sheets from those four years at Odin's Revenge. I can go back, with or without the grumpy old man, anytime.
But time passes and I don't. Sure, I think about it, especially on Valentine's Day, which Odin called Gravel Lovers Day to mark the opening of post card registration each year. But I don't go back. More time passes.
Then last fall I road-tripped to Marysville, Kansas for the Pony Express 120 Bikepacking Adventure created by cycling buddy Paul Brasby. See, Pony Express Bikepacking Adventure. On the drive home, I stopped for a few days to check out his stomping grounds at Potter's Pasture, a sweet private park with publicly accessible trails and campgrounds set deep in the rugged hills of west central Nebraska. See, Potter's Pasture FaceBook Page.
While the trails were cool, I remembered Potter's Pasture as a check point each year for Odin's Revenge, which started and finished in nearby Gothenburg. From a ridge line vista along a Potter's Pasture trail, my eyes wandered to the rough roads meandering into the surrounding backcountry. My thoughts drifted.
Back in 2015, Race Director Chad Quigley surveyed the realm of Odin's Revenge. (photo by Wally Kilburg)
Revelation. These remote roads are calling me back. And Potter's Pasture is delivering the invocation.
Now, months later, the Buffalo Bill Rough Rider photographs prompt me to dig out my old cue sheets from the 2014 Odin's Revenge, the infamous "Mud Year." Because only 6 riders finished that year, Chad Quigley repeated that course in 2015 so more could enjoy it. It was my favorite Odin's Revenge course. I'd love to ride it again.
To stoke the fires, I use those old cue sheets to create a new ridewithgps.com digital map of that 2014/2015 Odin's Revenge course, with a new start/finish at Potter's Pasture. Yes, that would change the experience a bit, but I think every ride out there is a unique experience. To see the route, go to Wandering Wide.
Daydreaming of a weekend spent riding that course and camping at Potter's Pasture, I realize that some folks might really enjoy this course, but maybe not in a single, long day. So, I create two loops out of Potter's Pasture that together cover the entire 2014/2015 Odin's Revenge course. The loops are about 100 miles each that one could ride back-to-back during a single weekend. Half and Half of Wandering Wide.
First checkpoint at Mile 47 of the 2014 Odin's Revenge (The Mud Year), 6+ hours after the start. Mark Stevenson in the Pirate Cycling League kit encourages me, while calling his day over. Paul Brasby in the WhiteTail Racing Team kit walks behind me, looking for a mud stick. (photo by Race Co-Director Merrie Quigley)
Now, we're rolling. I think of the many riders at Odin's Revenge that chose a short course option of about 60 miles. Then I think of newcomers looking for a taste of Odin's, rather than a royal feast. They'd all probably enjoy a weekend at Potter's Pasture riding these roads, too. I need to make some shorter routes.
Rather than try to adapt the prior Odin's Revenge short courses to a Potter's Pasture start/finish, I simply create four new routes with ridewithgps.com. Each of these new routes is a 40-50 mile loop on surrounding rough roads and include some portion of the 2014/2015 Odin's Revenge course. I think these routes look fun from satellite images on a computer while I'm sitting far away in South Dakota. However, before riding them, I'd look for input from local cyclists with first hand knowledge. That's you Paul Brasby, Jeff Caldwell, Ben Cooper, Bobby Lee Denny, Luke Meduna, Lane Bergen, Amy Smith and Randall Smith. Let me know if you'd change anything. Potter's Pasture Gravel Loops.
Early group at the 2013 Odin's Revenge. (photo by Scott Redd)
With the maps created and the day dreamt away, all I need now is to carve out some time and commit to a long weekend at Potter's Pasture. However, my June, July, August and September 2021 are already booked pretty solid, so maybe early spring or into the fall later this year. Or, more likely, next year.
One weekend, or another. One way, or another. I'll be back, wandering wide.
The last finisher at the last checkpoint at the last Odin's Revenge. Race Co-Director Matt Bergen and me at the 2016 Odin's Revenge. (photo by Paul Siebert)
Here's The Wanderer, by U2 featuring Johnny Cash on lead vocals.
The Wanderer, U2 featuring Johnny Cash (1993).
Here's a screen shot of my ridewithgps.com route of 2014/2015 Odin's Revenge course, but with a Potter's Pasture start/finish.
Here's a screen shot of my ridewithgps.com collection of two century loop routes from Potter's Pasture that together cover the entire 2014/2015 Odin's Revenge course.
Finally, here's two screen shots showing a collection of four separate, 40-50 mile loop routes that cover at least some Odin's Revenge roads and start/finish at Potter's Pasture.
The Buffalo Bill Rough Rider Gravel Grinder is back on the calendar for Saturday, June 5, 2021 after the planned inaugural race in 2020 was cancelled due to governmental permit issues related to virus concerns. Last year, I wrote a post titled "Knock, Knock, Knockin' On Odin's Door" about this new event. With the inaugural race re-set for 2021, I am reproducing that post.
Shae and Jeff Caldwell, owners of local bike shop White Tail Cycle Sport, spearhead this community event, which is just one of many ways they are involved with their community. This is grass roots gravel. This is where the gravel family lives and thrives.
I'll be there and I hope to see some of you there, too.
2021 Buffalo Bill Rough Rider Gravel Grinder (photo by course designer Paul Brasby)
Knock, Knock, Knockin' On Odin's Door (first published 2/5/20)
Here's a new event with a classic grass roots gravel vibe. The Buffalo Bill Rough Rider Gravel Grinder. North Platte, Nebraska. June 5, 2021. Registration at BikeReg.com.
Everyone from dusty old timers to the gravel curious will enjoy this event, with routes of 25 miles, 60 miles, and 120 miles. Shae and Jeff Caldwell, hometown owners of WhiteTail Cycle Sport, are the driving forces behind the festivities, with additional help from local cyclists Lane Bergen, Paul Brasby, Ben Cooper, Luke Meduna and Randall Smith. Without knowing anything more, I know that these fine folks will put together a great event, with something for everyone, on and off the bike.
Climbing on some powdered roads on the Buffalo Bill Rough Rider Gravel Grinder course.
Starting from the railroad town of North Platte, Nebraska, the Buffalo Bill Rough Rider Gravel Grinder plunges into the remote valleys and deep draws of barely-populated South Central Nebraska. One can ride for hours on these winding, rough, remote roads without seeing an occupied building, let alone a convenience store or a town. I can't wait to see where these routes go.
Although the 120 mile route remains a secret, a few leaked photographs reveal that it enters the legendary realm of Odin's Revenge. Think long, hot, steep climbs up rutted roads, panoramic ridge line cowpaths pocketed with hoof prints, and jarring, bumpy descents bottoming out on pooled, powdered dirt. I suspect there will be long stretches of hero gravel, but there's also a hint of swinging through a section of single track in the renowned Potter's Pasture. Something for everyone.
A peak into the legendary realm of Odin's Revenge.
Feelin' Stronger Every Day, Peter Cetera & James Pankow (1973).
Once out riding on gravel in winter, I was astonished by the number and length of rides possible, even here in Western South Dakota. See my 2015 post, A Revelation. After several winters of riding primarily prairie gravel, I decided to head back into the Black Hills this year. After all, my Black Mountain Monster Cross with 40 mm tires handles a couple of inches of snow just fine and now I have a Jones 29+ with 3.25 inch tires for heartier stuff.
Then Lucas Haan, the irrepressible force of nature behind Black Hills Gravel, provided the perfect excuse to head for the Hills by announcing the Black Hills Gravel WarmUp Cup, a challenge to ride 4 different Black Hills Gravel Series routes during the 13 weeks of winter. As I understand, the idea is to encourage folks to ride more during the winter, prepare for the spring Black Hills Gravel Series, and nurture our local gravel family by sharing rides and experiences. For WarmUp Cup details, go to Black Hills Gravel WarmUp Cup. To select a route from the growing library at BlackHillsGravel.com, go the Routes and Resources page.
I decided to complete my Black Hills Gravel WarmUp Cup by riding each of the four Black routes based out of Hill City, aka the Heart of the Hills. During my first ride, however, I soon discovered that the depth and inconsistency of the snow on those rough backroads would make any of the Black routes (50+ miles/5,000+ foot elevation gain) a monster outing for me. Looking more to build base than to destroy my body and mind, I opted for the shorter Blue routes (25+ miles/2,500+ foot elevation gain). Those were a'plenty. Here's my summary.
1. 2017 Hill City Blue Route (WarmUp Cup #1 - January 2)
To kickstart the Black Hills Gravel WarmUp Cup, I dove into the Hills to ride the 2017 Hill City Black Route. That was the plan, anyhow. Right from the start, however, I slogged through ice, then packed snow, and eventually untracked snow riding up China Gulch Road (USFS 249) and Horse Creek Road (USFS 530). When finally emerging on Mystic Road, I reassessed time, light, and energy and opted for the shorter Blue Route.
It was a great day on the bike, with big sunshine, moderate temperatures, and little wind. For the most part, the snow was either just 1-2 inches, which I could ride through, or hard packed enough to ride on top. My Black Mountain Monster Cross bike with 40 mm tires worked fine.
With all the snow, however, those 30-some miles still worked me. So, I guess I'll stick with the Black Hills Gravel Series Blue routes for my first WarmUp Cup.
Horse Creek Road with my track joining those of many animals. Black Mountain Monster Cross with 40 mm G-Ones handled the 1-2 inches of snow just fine.
2. 2018 Hill City Blue Route (WarmUp Cup #2 - January 13)
The WarmUP Cup encourages folks to ride throughout the winter by spacing four rides at least 10 days apart from each other. So, 11 days after riding the 2017 Hill City Blue route for my WarmUp Cup #1, I ventured back to Hill City to take on the 2018 Hill City Blue route.
Once through the pavement of Hill City, the 16 miles or so up China Gulch Road (USFS 249), Horse Creek Road (USFS 530), and Mystic Road are the same as the start of the 2017 Hill City Blue route. Although no new snow appeared to have fallen over the past 11 days, this stretch was full of winter. China Gulch started icy and turned to packed snow. Then Horse Creek started filled with untracked snow and eventually offered a couple of tracks packed by a vehicle or two. Mystic Road was just icy. Overall, it was at least as much work as 11 days ago, as the snow didn't melt away, it just became more dense.
Although overcast and cool all day, the wind didn't really pick up until I turned south on Mystic Road and then Battle Axe Road (USFS 386). That meant a sweet tailwind for about 10 miles and then 2 miles down Reno Gulch Road (USFS 303) into Hill City. Overall, it was a good day to get into the Hills before more snow falls.
Horse Creek Road showing my track from today and from 11 days ago.
3. 2019 Hill City Blue Route (WarmUp Cup #3 - January 24)
Just 11 days after riding the 2018 Hill City Blue route for my WarmUp Cup #2, I returned to Hill City to take on the 2019 Hill City Blue route. During that week and a half, however, snow accumulated a few times throughout the Black Hills. So, I decided to take my Jones 29+ bike to have the best chance of riding those 30 miles.
After a short section of Mickelson Trail, most of this route followed USFS Secondary roads stuffed with 2-4 inches of snow. All were rideable on the packed tracks left by a few vehicles, although it was slow and arduous. Twice I stopped to drop the pressure in those big 3.25 inch tires to stay atop the snow. I doubt I could have ridden that route on that day on anything less.
The day started mostly sunny, cool at 24 degrees, and breezy and didn't change much. The gradual climb up Spring Creek Road (USFS 305) and Reno Gulch Road (USFS 303) had just enough traffic since the last snowfall to pack a couple of rideable tracks. Onto Newton Fork Road (USFS 304), the number of vehicle tracks dropped significantly, making for tougher sledding. Fortunately, well over half of that 6 miles is downhill, which I rode mostly on untracked snow. Then Battle Axe Road (USFS 386) was much like Spring Creek and Reno Gulch. Overall, the Blue route in those conditions was every bit as difficult as the Black route in summer.
Harney Peak from the ridgeline view along Newton Fork Road.
4. 2020 Hill City Blue Route (WarmUp Cup #4 - February 3)
For my fourth and final ride of the 2021 Black Hills Gravel Challenge Cup, I returned to Hill City to ride the 2020 Hill City Blue route. I briefly considered riding my Black Mountain Monster Cross bike, but fortunately returned to reality and loaded up the Jones 29+.
Once out of the pavement of Hill City, the first 12 miles or so up the Mickelson Trail and Spring Creek Road (USFS 305) are the same as the 2019 Hill City Blue route. But those miles did not ride the same this week. Bright sunshine and 48 degrees softened the Mickelson Trail, even where it was clear of snow. Then Spring Creek Road was mostly packed from some traffic, but also was very soft. Those first 12 miles, almost all uphill, demanded hard, consistent pedaling with attention to staying atop the snow. I needed every bit of the width of those plus-sized tires on the Jones 29+.
After topping out another climb to a ridge line on Reno Gulch Road (USFS 303), the route inexplicably turned onto ATV trails for over 3 miles, the first mile of which offered 4-6 inches of untracked snow. I stopped twice to drop tire pressure, until it was down into single digits. Then the next 2 miles were a delightful mix of snow, ice and mud, as I careened downhill. A Lucas Haan designed route is never over 'till it's over.
All in all, this was an appropriate ride to complete my Black Hills Gravel WarmUp Cup! Thanks, Lucas!
Plowing up a snow-packed Spring Creek Road, softened from the sun and 48 degrees.
Nothing like a little Chicago, the rock band with brass, to show how to feel stronger every day.
Feelin' Stronger Every Day, Chicago (1973)
And here's a solid cover by Leonid and Friends, a Russian band, 45 years later.
Feelin' Stronger Every Day, Leonid & Friends (2018)
And it makes me wanna take a back road Makes me wanna take the long way home Put a little gravel in my travel Unwind, unravel all night long
Take A Back Road, Rhett Akins & Luke Laird (2011)
After several summers of solo weekend bikepacking rides throughout the Black Hills, I enjoyed a week+ trip around the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming with cycling buddy Paul Brasby. During that trip, Paul described a bikepacking event he was adding to an existing gravel grinder.
What? Adding a bikepacking event to a gravel grinder? What does that look like?
Paul Brasby leads the Friday group bikepacking ride out to the campground at Sabetha City Lake. (photo by Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash)
The Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash is an annual race in the historic town of Marysville, Kansas. With passionate, dedicated individuals planning and managing the event, the Pony Express has developed a growing cult following among area cyclists as a must-ride at the end of the year's gravel calendar.
The signature event is a 120 mile gravel race on a wide variety of gravel/dirt roads fanning out from the first Home Station of the famous Pony Express of the Old West. For those looking for less saddle time, the Pony Express also offers a 70 mile race and two different relays - a 3 person relay to cover the 120 mile course and a 4 person relay on the 70 mile course. Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash.
Paul knows this event thoroughly. In fact, he created the Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash, co-directed it for its first 5 years, and just this year turned it over to locals. For 2020, Paul suggested a bikepacking event that would leave the morning before the main event, ride along the 120 mile route, camp somewhere about half way, and ride back the next day to finish along with everyone else. In another twist, the Friday ride out to the camp would be a non-timed group ride, while the Saturday ride back would be a timed race for those that wanted to compete. Now, how about that?
Paul Brasby leads the start of the inaugural Pony Express 120 Bikepacking Adventure. (photo by Andrea Skalla)
After a spring and summer of riding solo, very small group rides, and "virtual" events, the prospect of riding in an actual event with others certainly is appealing. The Pony Express also sounds like a well conceived and executed gravel event, especially with this intriguing Bikepacking Adventure. But it's Paul's role in the event that drives me to find my way to Marysville, Kansas in the middle of October.
Paul co-directed the Pony Express with the Marysville Chamber of Commerce for the first five years and the small town really responds. Seemingly half of the town's weekly newspaper is devoted to the event and "Welcome Gravel Dashers!" signs adorn businesses all over. The City Park even fills this weekend with many cyclists and their families camping in RVs and tents. It's the event of the weekend.
Cruising a Minimum Maintenance Road during harvest season in northern Kansas.
The bikepacking event rules are pretty straightforward. Carry what you want for food, clothing and camping, but you'll have to carry it the entire event. You can utilize the aid stations set up for the main event and also stop at commercial establishments along the way, if any. But I'm not relying on unknown resupply and I'm not cutting corners. As a non-racer who enjoys hot meals and relative comfort on and off the bike, I will carry my typical autumn sub-24 gear and plan to resupply nothing but water.
For this two day/one night event on a gravel race course, I choose my beloved Black Mountain Cycles MonsterCross bike with 40 mm Schwalbe G-One Bite tires. It's built for this terrain and comfortably carries everything, including tent, sleeping bag/liner/pad/pillow, rain gear, clothing, stove, food, and 4.5 liters of water. When ready to roll, it weighs 47 pounds. No fly weight, but all business.
Flying into Summerfield, the first and only checkpoint of the first day.
Sixteen intrepid bikepackers roll out of Marysville on Friday morning, bound for Sabetha City Lake to camp. It's a jovial, talkative group excited to be out riding together on a crisp autumn morning. The route starts on the Blue River Rail Trail before turning onto fast gravel occasionally connected by dirt Minimum Maintenance Roads. If wet, this course could be Mr. Hyde, but today it's all Dr. Jekyll.
Mid-October is harvest season in northern Kansas and combines, tractors and trucks fill the countryside. More than once, I stop to let a procession of big rigs amble by. I welcome the short breaks, knowing that the industrious farmers are the reason these roads exist and I get to ride them just for fun.
The winds build throughout the morning, growing into a substantial, steady westerly. Turns out that's a big tailwind for most of our ride today. With the strong prevailing winds, fast roads, and relatively light gravel bike, I'm rolling 12-15 mph with little effort. Nice.
Before long, I pull into the 27 mile checkpoint in the town of Summerfield. In addition to water, some local volunteers offer the cyclists Halloween candy from a ginormous bag. What a treat! Since chocolate doesn't travel very well on a bike, I indulge right there. Sweet!
Good thing this Minimum Maintenance Road is dry.
The miles roll by easily, at least until Brewsky Hill. No, it's not a monster climb in length, but it is steep. So steep, in fact, that a sponsor offers a free beer to anyone that rides it without stopping. I give it a go, but don't get far. Remounting to try again, I fall after a couple of pedal strokes and stumble all the way to the bottom before catching my balance. OK, that's it. This is the only time all day that I would have preferred my Jones 29+ with mountain bike gearing.
After a delightful 73 miles, I soft pedal into the camp ground in mid-afternoon and set up camp. Camp host Jon Naaf checks on the bikepackers riding in and creates a central gathering place near his camper by the lake, with a picnic table, chairs and a roaring campfire. Once he accounts for all riders, Jon unexpectedly grills hamburgers and hot dogs, provides beverages, and awards a door prize to each rider. Even better, he later facilitates a round-the-campfire introduction of everyone there. Nice.
Gathering at a city lake, bikepackers attract the attention of the local constable.
Just as the party's getting started, a Sabetha Police Officer drives up to check out a report of "about 20 bikers" hanging out at the city lake. Even the local EMT shows up, just in case. Jon addresses their concerns and happily announces that no charges will be filed.
The informal gathering stretches into the evening, as few wish to leave the warmth of the campfire and the company surrounding it. A little community builds, as new friends connect and old friends re-connect. Jon recounts the story of his wife Amy, who recovered from cancer and started the organization Pink Gravel to help others recovering from cancer return to active lifestyles. Pink Gravel is out in the community, raising awareness, encouraging folks, and volunteering at events such as the Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash. That's some community service. See her website Pink Gravel.
Warm fire and conversation at Sabetha City Lake.
Eventually, all the bikepackers head to their tents and hammocks. Well, all but one. Todd Frye, a local cyclist active in the nutty Black Squirrel Cycling League, left his tent at the start. That actually was intentional, because he did not like how the tent's weight affected his bike's handling and figured a tarp would be enough shelter. Then forgot to load the tarp onto his bike. Only after arriving at the campground did he realize his mistake.
With temperatures dropping into the 40's and below, Todd knew he was in for a long, cold night in his sleeping bag in the open air. Determined to stick to the ethos of the bikepacking event, he refused offers of help and hunkered down in a shallow ditch. Then, in the middle of the night, a front blew in like a freight train and kicked winds up to a steady 25+ mph. I don't think he slept much after that.
Here I'm enjoying a cup of hot coffee while the racers take off on the second day. (photo by Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash)
In the morning, the persistent wind creates all sorts of problems for everyone. Tents and ground covers billow. Stuff sacks scoot away. Hats tumble across the grounds. Stoves blow out. The biggest problem, however, is that steady 25+ mph wind will be a direct headwind for much of our 52+ miles today. That's going to take some work. Most of the bikepackers seem to respond with a silent shrug and continue to prepare for the ride ahead.
Shortly before 7:30, I deliberately sit at the picnic table by the lake and fire up my stove to make a fresh cup of coffee. I'm sitting out the race start. If I line up for that 7:30 start, I know I'll get caught up in racing. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but that's not why I'm here. So, at 7:30 I cheer on those starting the race back to Marysville and enjoy the rest of my coffee.
Winding our way back to Marysville on the second day.
Maybe 20 minutes later, I meander out of the campground as one of the last bikepackers to leave. The day breaks overcast, cool and windy. But I slept warm and well, savored a hot breakfast and am dressed for the conditions. I settle in for a relaxing 52 mile tour of the Pony Express countryside.
The idyllic, protected start around the lake soon climbs out of tree cover and emerges onto the fruited plains. No hiding from the wind here. I'm pedaling up and down rolling farmland directly into that big headwind. OK, so this is what the day is. I find a sustainable rhythm and enjoy the passing scenery.
At the Axtell checkpoint on the second day, riders on the 70 Mile course merge onto the 120 mile course. (photo by Andrea Skalla)
I pass a few of the other non-racing bikepackers, several of whom are struggling with the early hills and wind. The return ride on the second day ultimately proved more difficult than expected for many, as only 10 of the 16 bikepackers starting today ultimately pedaled back to Marysville.
Cruising into the check point at the town of Axtell, I stop to refuel, rehydrate and stretch a bit. The park is buzzing with activity, with cyclists from today's 70 mile course streaming in to merge with the 120 mile route. Volunteers scurry about, taking care of everyone. I refill my water bottles, sit down against a fence by the road, and close my eyes. This is good . This is really good. Fully 20 minutes pass before I move again. Oh, yeah. I still need to eat and drink. OK, I will. Ahh. This is good.
Paul Brasby and Craig Groseth at the finish of the 2020 Pony Express 120 Bikepacking Adventure. Paul finished 3rd to claim a podium spot. FWIW, I finished 7th.
The rest of the ride continues to roll through picturesque rural Kansas, up and down good gravel roads and more than occasionally dip into a dirt road connector. The main difference today is the persistently heavy headwinds and, after the Axtell check point, the presence of the 70 mile riders, including a couple of old Nebraskans.
First, Rob Evans of Omaha flew by, then slowed to chat, before disappearing over the next ridge. A little later, Joe Billesbach of Beatrice did the same. Both interrupted their race to re-connect a bit, even as they were clearly racing. I later learned that Rob rode as part of the winning 120 mile relay team and Joe won the 70 mile fat bike race. Thanks for the hospitality, boys. I'm glad it didn't cost you a win!
Now that's a lot of stuff from one event. Clockwise from the upper right: 3/4 length event t-shirt, custom bikepacking finisher's cup, buff, number plate, liner gloves, local newspaper, mud stick, titanium spork, Pony Express "mail" to carry through the checkpoints, custom face mask, cue sheets, and 3/4 length Pink Gravel t-shirt.
The 120 mile course is quickly running out. Soon I'm back on the Blue River Rail Trail for the final few miles into Marysville. I'm not sure that I'm ready for all this to end, but I soft pedal through the finish line. There's Paul, waiting. He's excited for me, but he's also cheering for every rider coming in. Later I learn that Paul raced hard and smart all day to grab third place in the bikepacking race. Nice.
Riders of all kinds filter through the finish line over the next several hours. I hang out for the energetic post-race festivities by the newly restored Union Pacific Train Depot. There's plenty of drinks and snacks, but the homemade apple caramel pie and vanilla ice cream is simply scrumptious. I consider myself abundantly disciplined to consume only two servings. At a volunteer's table, I find my event schwag bag filled with all sorts of stuff, including a titanium spork and a "Marysville Mud Stick." Better yet, I receive a custom finisher's cup for the Bikepacking Adventure. How cool is that?
Thanks to race co-directors Mark and Renee Hoffman, the rest of the Black Squirrel Cycling League, and the Marysville Chamber of Commerce for running the 2020 Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash! Well done, folks! Thanks also to all the sponsors, the volunteers and the cyclists out there pedaling through that wind! And special thanks to my cycling buddy Paul Brasby for drawing me out to Marysville, Kansas to experience a slice of heaven known as the Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash.
Give me your heart, make it real, or else forget about it.
Smooth, by Itaal Shur & Rob Thomas, performed by Santana (1999).
My 2020 Gold Rush Gravel Grinder is in the books. The real route. On real gravel. Through real mud. Over real rocks. Against real wind. In real heat. With real sunburn. And, in the end, real tired.
No virtual ride here.
Hard Forest Service gravel abounds at the Gold Rush Gravel Grinder in the Black Hills of South Dakota.
Like events of all kinds all over, the Gold Rush Gravel Grinder will not occur in 2020, due to uncertainties with governmental licenses and permits. Gone is the pre-race gathering, the mass start, the check point enthusiasm, and the post-race festivities at a city park. There will be no Gold Rush block party this year.
Determined to make the most from a bad hand, Race Co-Directors Kristi and Perry Jewett create an alternative event. One can participate in a "virtual" Gold Rush by riding one of the four race distances (45, 70, 110 and 210 miles) on any route, anywhere, between June 1-15. Kristi and Perry will post "results," ship out event schwag, and even award door prizes and other awards. Kristi and Perry are doing what they can do, making the most of it for everyone. And I understand others choosing not to gather in large groups or to travel to the Black Hills for a bike race. But I live here. I ride many miles solo. I've looked forward to this all year. So, I enter the "virtual" Gold Rush Gravel Grinder to ride the actual race course. Solo. Single Speed. Self-supported. Self-navigated. The event is "virtual," but my ride is real.
The start of my "virtual" Gold Rush Gravel Grinder from an empty Spearfish City Park.
With a late start to clear the vestiges of last night's hail storm, I arrive at Spearfish City Park full of anticipation. The "virtual" weather as forecast and the real weather outside actually match with relatively clear skies, no wind and 60 degrees. The day promises to be very good. It's oddly quiet and a bit eerie to stand at a Gold Rush start line alone. Memories flood my mind of many starts here, with many friends, both old and new. I see their excited faces and hear their friendly chatter. Abruptly, a crowing rooster breaks the clutter and a familiar voice shouts "PEDAL POWER!" I look around. The park is empty. The streets are empty. So, I quickly reply, "Pedal Power," take off and don't look back.
From Spearfish heading west into Wyoming, the gravel roads still hold water from last night.
As the sun burns off the last of the cloud cover, I roll through the early prairie miles below big, blue skies. Before long, I turn onto Sand Creek Road for a serene 22 mile climb along a quiet creek. This pretty, protected stretch of gentle uphill offers a great opportunity to settle into a sustainable rhythm and just enjoy the ride. My mind drifts.
What's that? A cyclist! Flying down Sand Creek Road toward me! It's Angie Kent from Spearfish, out riding her own "virtual" Gold Rush event. What a nice surprise. We chat for a few minutes before returning to our individual journeys. That brief encounter lifts my spirits for miles.
Spearfish cyclist Angie Kent on her own "virtual" Gold Rush Gravel Grinder.
Great to see you, Angie, and congrats on your successful ride!
Emerging from Sand Creek Road at mile 36, I stop at would have been a Check Point/Aid Station brimming with encouraging volunteers and baked treats. Although now there's nothing but a remote intersection, I take a break, stretch, and eat a little. I'm right on track for me, a little over 3 hours into the ride and starting to warm up.
Looking ahead, Moskee Road looms large, with some significantly steeper rollers and then rougher road along the ponds. After a couple of hours of steady climbing along Sand Creek, I always enjoy this stretch of short, hard uphill pulls and screaming descents.
OK. Short stops are great, but long stops will break. Time to roll.
Spinning up Sand Creek Road on the Gold Rush Gravel Grinder.
By the time I turn southeast onto Grand Canyon Road, both the sun and wind are fully awake. My cycle computer reads 94 degrees and a stiff, steady headwind greets me for the final 20+ mile climb to the next Check Point at O'Neil Pass. There's not much to do now, but keep pedaling up the hill, in the heat and into the wind. Here lies the heart of the ride.
About half-way up that final climb to O'Neil Pass, at about 60 miles into the course, Grand Canyon Road turns decidedly upward. Not only steeper, the road also straightens out to flaunt its might. It simply looks endlessly up. Gut check time.
Keep at it. Keep pedaling. Walk if you must. Keep moving. There is a summit. You will make it.
Nearing the 70 mile Check Point at O'Neil Pass, after a whole lot of uphill, upwind, hot gravel.
Eventually, I reach Trails Head Lodge at the top of O'Neil Pass. Rather than check-in, re-load, and dash, I plop down for a cheese burger, french fries and a bottomless Coke. No, that's not premium racing fuel. But I'm not racing anyone, anyhow. Today, I'm out riding my bike.
After an exceptionally long break, I ease onto the roads for the 40 mile descent home, starting with 9 downhill miles on Rifle Pit Road. But even that doesn't come easy. This rocky, rutted, rough, often barely-a-road is no time to relax. I bounce all over, checking speed to avoid breaking bike or body. At least this year it's mostly dry.
Of course, there are a few uphills along the way down to Spearfish, particularly that nasty pitch up to the last Check Point at the Cement Ridge Lookout. But now, the heavy lifting is done. After a spell, it's a spun-out coast down Roughlock Falls Road and then Spearfish Canyon.
Cooked by the sun, battered by the wind, and worn down by the hills, I am done for the day. My 2020 Gold Rush Gravel Grinder "virtual" event is complete after riding a very real 110 miles in just over 10 hours.
The most bellicose, unruly gang of wildlife I've seen since the virus.
Give me your heart, make it real, or else forget about it.
Smooth, performed by Rob Thomas and Carlos Santana (1999).
