The Great Divide - Trail Angels Marlene & Paul

In ways I can't explain and can't deny

The little that I have He multiples

Just when I feel He won't show up on time

God provides

God Provides, Kirk Franklin (2016) 

 From Left to Right:  Our hostess Marlene Fifield, Marlene's sister Roberta,
Marlene's husband Paul Fifield, and Roberta's husband George. (photo by Paul Brasby)

Filet mignon grilled to order, sautéed fresh mushrooms, baked potatoes with sour cream and chives, fresh corn on the cob, huckleberry coleslaw, fresh picked cherries, bottomless glasses of ice water (declining the red wine), and then vanilla ice cream topped with homemade huckleberry sauce.

Does that sound like your typical dinner on a bikepacking trip? Not mine, either. Well, that was our dinner on the evening of Day 4 of our ride of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, thanks to Trail Angels Marlene and Paul Fifield of Montana. And that gourmet meal was just part of the story.

Paul documents the scene where Paul Fifield, California Ken, Marlene Fifield, Paul and I
sort out just where we are and where we need to be. (photo by Paul Brasby)

Day 4 of our Great Divide ride starts from Wayfarer's State Park near Big Fork, Montana with the relatively ambitious thought of riding about 75 miles to the Owl Creek Packer USFS campground near Holland Lake. If short of that, we'll disperse camp somewhere along the way.

After warming up on some pavement, we climb steadily on two-track logging roads into the remote backcountry of Flathead National Forest. Always on the lookout for bear and other wildlife, we catch occasional glimpses of big mountains on the horizon and of Swan Lake through the dense vegetation. Stands of Western Larch tower 150-200 feet above the lush forest floor and hug the road to frame our narrow path. Always above is the big, blue Montana sky. I lose track of how many times Paul joyfully exclaims, "Now, THIS is what I came out here for!"

So we don't miss another turn, Paul Fifield positioned tree branches to point the way to his house.
I say we go that way, while California Ken stows his map. (photo by Paul Brasby)

Paul chases down another southbound GDMBR rider, California Ken, and the two of them immediately talk themselves off the route by missing a turn and plunging down a steep hill. Despite my screaming from behind, they quickly drop out of sight. Glancing at the map, I see that their road soon ends at a campground, where they would probably recognize their mistake. So, I find some shade atop that hill, grab a snack, and wait for them to return. Within about 15 minutes, they come charging up that hill.

Back on route, we roll up, up and down, and through big time logging country, with countless tantalizing rough roads veering into the forest. In the mid-afternoon heat, we're over two miles up a steady climb when we realize that something's wrong. Paul rides ahead to look for a sign, while I pull out my map, cue sheets and book. Eventually, we both conclude that we somehow missed a turn at the bottom of that climb and turn back toward an intersection down there.

Preparing to sleep in a luxurious man-cave garage.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

Then huckleberry hunters Paul and Marlene Fifield pull up on a side-by-side ATV.  Marlene says, "You fellows look lost." Grateful for help from locals, I ask if they'd look at my map to confirm where we are and where we should be. They do so and follow us back to that intersection to make sure we don't miss the turn again. Then they insist that we sample from their buckets of freshly picked huckleberries. Sweet.

With the time and energy lost climbing those errant miles, on a hot day already a bit ambitious, we conclude that it's unlikely we'll reach Holland Lake that night. That's OK, we'll ride for awhile and find a nice place to disperse camp. California Ken thought he'd do the same. Overhearing that discussion, Paul Fifield says, "There's a lot of bear out here. Why don't you stay at our place? We're just a few miles away."

Our host Paul Fifield works his magic.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

We're not about to turn down that offer and neither is California Ken. Early on, Paul and I agreed to prioritize secure sleeping arrangements in grizzly country where possible, even if it meant riding a bit less, or a bit more, than circumstances might otherwise indicate. That is, where possible, we seek to sleep indoors or in a developed campground with bear bins. In our final tally after 20 nights in grizzly country, we slept indoors 7 times, in developed campgrounds 12 times, and at a dispersed campsite just once.

We soon learn that we would not be sleeping just anyplace, but inside Paul's enormous, luxurious man-cave garage. Nice. We set up, clean up, and charge devices. Then Paul returns to invite us to dinner. Wow. Yeah, that would be great. He then asks, "How would you like your steak?" Are you kidding? Steak?

Marlene Fifield serves her gourmet dinner.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

Yeah. Steak. And all the other delicacies noted above. Amazing dinner. Amazing company. Paul, Marlene, Marlene's sister Roberta and Roberta's husband George want to hear all about our ride. Paul, California Ken and I want to hear all about living in the beautiful Montana backcountry. Time flies by.

Near the end of the meal, Marlene quietly shares her experience from earlier that day. She had invited Roberta and George to dinner and, before leaving to huckleberry hunt, she removed steaks from their freezer for dinner for four. Then her husband invited these three cyclists to stay the night. What to do? Invite them for dinner, too? Driving back to their house, Marlene wonders if there's any way to stretch those four steaks to feed seven, now with the addition of three hungry cyclists.

Returning to the steaks she removed from the freezer, Marlene discovers that, somehow, there are seven steaks thawed. How did that happen? She does not remember removing seven steaks, but reasons that she must have. She cannot fathom why, since she only planned four people for dinner, but here they are. Seven thawed steaks. How can that be?

Marlene simply says that God provided steak for seven.

Then she realizes that there's so much more. God brought these seven people together for that night through a sequence of events unplanned by any of us. He provided guidance to three wandering cyclists to find their way back on route, a secure place to rest for the night, and a home cooked meal. He provided an opportunity for two huckleberry hunters to serve some weary, wayward travelers. And He provided company for everyone to share a special evening together. We listen in awe and give thanks. Amazing.

In the morning, Paul Fifield leads the way back to the Great Divide route.

Reluctantly, we retire for the night and sleep comfortably in our spacious accommodations. In the morning, Paul Fifield brings hot coffee and cinnamon rolls for everyone. To top it off, he hops on his bike to lead us to our route. A few miles later, we're back on the Great Divide, with hearts full of gratitude.

Trail angels, indeed.

God provides.

God Provides, Tamela Mann (2016)

The Great Divide - Living A Dream

The bells were ringing

Our souls were singing

Do you remember, never a cloudy day

There was a 

Ba de ya, say do you remember?
Ba de ya, dancing in September
Ba de ya, golden dreams were shiny days

September, Maurice White & Allee Willis (1978)

Emotions and thoughts run wild after I reach Antelope Wells.
This photograph is about 3 hours after I finished and I'm still giddy. 
(photo by Cyler Groseth)

The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. A 2,500 mile cross country journey over primarily remote, rough gravel/dirt roads tracking the Continental Divide from Roosville, Montana at the Canadian border to Antelope Wells, New Mexico at the Mexican border. It's the longest off-pavement route in the world.

The Adventure Cycling Association first published this route way back in 1998 and it immediately caught my attention back then. Wow. The imagination to dream up such a route! The dedication to map it! The audacity to even consider riding it! Is that even possible? How? Boy, if I could, well, that would be something special. But it's way out there. Way beyond reality. Well into the realm of dreams. But, maybe. Someday. Maybe. Yeah, maybe someday.

Twenty-three years later, I lived that dream. I rode the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Unreal.

Big sky, big mountains, big trees, big views and another big day on the Great Divide.
Montana two track skirting the western edge of Glacier National Park.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

Now weeks later, the magnitude of that experience still boggles my mind and unleashes a cascade of emotions. I still struggle to comprehend even the most basic aspects of the experience. Talking with family and friends helps, but my words are inadequate.

Here's one way I've described my Great Divide ride. Take any one day from my seven weeks of riding and disregard all the rest as if they never happened. Plug that one day into a normal cycling year filled with other rides, events, and races. That one day would be my best cycling day of the year. Hands down. Now, go back and string together 48 more days just like it. Unreal.

Slugging my way up Lava Mountain in Montana.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

Part of my difficulty in expressing this experience probably lies in the amount of thought and time that I invested to prepare for it. This was years in the making and many months of detailed planning. Then, suddenly it's right there, staring me in the face. Are you sure that you're ready for this kid?

Over breakfast in Eureka, Montana on the day of the start, Colleen notes that I am unusually quiet. After months of patiently listening to every excited utterance of my plans for this ride, she recognizes that I'm sorting through a lot internally and asks if I'm alright. I am, although I'm not excited and I'm not nervous. I'm in that big pre-ride mental place where I'm thinking of what I'm about to do and how I can do it.

But this one is fundamentally different. This one is just so big. It's not a one day, weekend, or even week long ride. It's just so big. So many miles. So much time. So many variables. It's just so big. I cannot see a clear path to Antelope Wells. I cannot see a way to do this.

Yellowstone Branch Line Trail along the Warm River in Idaho.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

Colleen's concern sparks a memory. Months before, while I'm ruminating yet again on something about the Great Divide, she simply says, "Craig, every morning, you get to wake up and ride your bike, as long as you want, as far as you want, and stop when you want, on roads you've never ridden. And then the next day, you get to do it again. You get to do what you love to do."

Of course, she's right. Stop over-thinking and just ride.

My friend Mark Steele, an endurance motorcyclist planning his own Continental Divide ride, texted me before the start and somehow recognized my unsettled mind. He responded, "You've prepared for this. You've trained for this. You're ready for this. All that's left is for you to do it."

Of course, he's right. Believe in yourself and just ride.

Blown like a speck of dust across the Great Basin of Wyoming.
Yes, that's me, just a dot riding up that distant hill.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

To stay grounded over the course of this ride, I realize that I need to maintain a mindset to simply stay in the moment and trust myself. 

Here's what I came up with and stuck with every day for the entire seven weeks of this ride. Each morning I resolve to enjoy that day with everything that comes with it, while giving myself a chance to ride again the next day. Each evening, I give thanks for the opportunity and ability to do so. I do not allow myself to even think about the next road, the next mountain pass, or the next state, let alone Antelope Wells. Stay in the moment and simply enjoy it. All of it. And ride to ride another day.

Dispersed campsite in an aspen grove deep in the Rocky Mountains of Northern Colorado.
(photo by Raymond Bleesz)

To enjoy the day, with everything that comes with it, is not always easy. In fact, every day on my Great Divide ride included a stretch of some difficulty, often lasting for hours and sometimes all day. A few examples include a 4 mile heft-a-bike pitch over Lava Mountain in Montana after climbing virtually all day, a day of 20+ mph headwinds in the treeless Great Basin of Wyoming, a 27 mile climb up rocky, rutted Polvadera Mesa in northern New Mexico, and a monsoon with hail that turned my dirt road into a raging river in central New Mexico. There are no easy days on the Great Divide.

By closely tracking the Continental Divide and crossing it 30-some times, the Great Divide repeatedly takes you up and down, up and down, up and down. To keep thoughts positive during long climbs, I started thinking that if I'm climbing, I'm gaining elevation. If I'm descending, I'm gaining mileage. At the end of the day, I need both. So, celebrate whatever you're doing at the moment. You're riding the Great Divide.

Occasionally, when a stretch turned particularly nasty, I turned it around and asked myself, "What would you rather be doing?" The answer was always the same. Nothing. No matter what was happening that moment, that's where I wanted to be. Out riding the Great Divide.

The very first climb after crossing into New Mexico.
It's a little rougher down there.

So, that's how I rode 2,651 miles with 170,572 feet of elevation gain over 51 days (49 riding days + 2 rest days). Stay in the moment, ride one day at a time, and give myself a chance to ride again the next day.

That mindset may help explain why the finish was so surreal. I had never allowed myself to even think about the finish until the night before in the tiny town of Hachita, just 45 flat, paved miles from the border. No, I didn't sleep much that night, as that reality finally and quickly took shape. 

The next morning, I cruised those easy miles like one sweet victory lap, hooting and hollering just to hoot and holler. I even startled a couple of javelinas and woke up a few rattlesnakes. Then I rounded a corner and the finish bludgeoned me with the brute force of a New Mexican monsoon, flash flooding my senses. I stood alone, stunned, at a closed U.S Border Station under a blazing sun, not quite believing that I had just finished riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Unreal.

Locals say the New Mexican monsoons came a month late this year.
I rode right into them, but one reward was the desert in full bloom.
Yes, this is southern New Mexico in the first week of September.

Addendum. I finished my Great Divide ride on September 8, 2021. While waiting for my brother Cyler to pick me up at Antelope Wells, the song "September" by Earth, Wind & Fire and the cover by Kirk Franklin played through my head many times. Pure joy. Some singing and dancing may also have been involved.

The bells were ringing

Our souls were singing

Do you remember, never a cloudy day

Ba de ya, say do you remember?
Ba de ya, dancing in September
Ba de ya, golden dreams were shiny days

September, Maurice White & Allee Willis (1978)

September, Earth, Wind & Fire (1978)

Everybody has a September in their life

You know that first time you heard God's voice

So you felt His love

So no matter what season you're in right now

After winter comes spring

So, if you love my Jesus, help me sing

Ba de ya, tell me you remember
Ba de ya, when your heart felt like September
You still had the joy and God was just a prayer away

September, Kirk Franklin (2007)

September, Kirk Franklin (2007)

GDMBR Anticipation

We can never know about the days to come

But we think about them anyway

And I wonder if I'm really with you now

Or just chasin' after some finer day

Anticipation

Anticipation

Is makin' me wait

Is keepin' me waiting

Anticipation, Carly Simon (1971)

My loaded Jones 29+ ready to roll on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route.
I love M-Hill in the heart of Rapid City, but can't wait to explore some new trails and roads.

Oh, the anticipation.

Years in the making. Many months in detailed preparation. It's time.

Over 20 years ago, I learned that the Adventure Cycling Association completed mapping the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR), a 2,500 mile bicycle route on gravel and dirt roads along the Continental Divide across the country from Canada to Mexico. It immediately captured my imagination.

Over the years, I've dreamt of riding the GDMBR someday, while wistfully following the exploits of others. Two years ago, with all the silliness from La-Z-Boy internet warriors arguing arbitrary "racing" rules, I expressed my personal approach to riding it. Bikepacking The GDMBR. Then, last month, I finally announced my own planned start date of July 22, 2021. My GDMBR Date Is Set. As a bonus, cycling buddy Paul Brasby stomped on the pedals by committing to start with me. Hit It! Other friends and family may also join me somewhere along the way. With A Little Help From My Friends. It's time.

I've been up, down, and sideways through my bike, packs, gear, food, water, communications, navigation, and everything else I can think of. My numerous GDMBR posts sprinkled throughout this blog merely hint at what's been happening here. And it's not just armchair planning. This calendar year alone, I've ridden over 1,000 miles on my 70 pound, fully loaded Jones 29+ bike and another 500 miles on that bike unloaded, let alone the miles on my other bikes. It's time.

One final check and I'm bound for the U.S. Border Station at Roosville, Montana. It's time.

Anticipation. It's making me wait.

Anticipation, Carly Simon (1971)

NOTE:  I do not plan to post again on this blog until returning from the GDMBR. If all goes well, that should be some time.

2021 Black Hills Bounty (Wrap + Map Links) - A Ride With Friends

You've got a friend in me, You've got a friend in me,

When the road looks rough ahead,

And you're miles and miles from your nice warm bed,

You just remember what your old pal said,

Boy, you've got a friend in me,

Yeah, you've got a friend in me.

You've Got A Friend In Me, Randy Newman (1995)

Out for a friendly little ride on the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.
Paul Brasby, Lane Bergen, Craig Groseth, Mark Hoffman, Ben Cooper, Jeff Bloom

The concept of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty formed over many conversations with Paul Brasby during a week of long days pedaling the Cloud Peak 500 bikepacking route last summer. In general, Paul sought a multi-day bikepacking ride on remote, rough roads through the best of the Black Hills of South Dakota. But he also wanted a bucket list ride up iconic Iron Mountain Road to Mount Rushmore, which would be primarily paved and full of tourist traffic. And he wanted to invite cycling friends with various levels of bikepacking experience. Oh, and some of the families might vacation in the Black Hills at the same time.

Over the winter, we bounced around many ideas in the process of developing a plan, which eventually landed on 5 days of riding based out of the centrally located tourist town of Custer. We then decided on a remote start from a dispersed campsite, a Day 1 ride to second dispersed campsite, a Day 2 ride ending in a campground in Custer, a layover Day 3 where our gear stayed in Custer while we rode a Mount Rushmore paved road loop, a Day 4 ride to a third dispersed campsite, and a short Day 5 ride back to Custer. So, basically an Overnighter, a Layover, and a second Overnighter with a short ride home. That plan seemed to fit most everything in. See, Scouting A Route For Friends and Looking For Black Hills Bounty.

The days were hot and dry, despite the occasional ornery cloud.
Day 1 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Each day we adapted to changing circumstances, but I believe we stayed true to our objectives. We rode every bit of the miles planned for Days 1-4 and experienced all of our anticipated highlights, and then some. Ben, Paul and Lane even added a Day 0 ride to get up to that remote, dispersed campsite. Take a look at the ride reports for each day. Day 0 - Come Together, Day 1 - Start Of Something Good, Day 2 - Trust, Day 3 - All American, and Day 4 - End Of The Line.

At the end of Day 4, we did cut out the third dispersed campsite, but we enjoyed camping together in Custer that night. We did not ride at all on Day 5, which I had planned to be relatively short anyhow so folks could drive home that night. I'll just squirrel away for another day some of those great back roads planned for Day 5.

Not all the roads were gravel or dirt, but most all were pretty skinny.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

I admit to having some apprehension when Paul invited seemingly all of Nebraska and half of Kansas to this ride. I always envisioned the Black Hills Bounty as an outline for a week of backcountry riding and camping with friends. Not a race, not an event, not a destination, and not even a fixed route over a set number of days. Most of all, I emphatically did not want to manage a large gathering of strangers.

It turned out great, because the guys that rode it were great. Ben Cooper and Paul Brasby of North Platte, Nebraska. Jeff Bloom of Lincoln, Nebraska. Lane Bergen of Fort Collins, Colorado. Mark Hoffman of Marysville, Kansas. They each spent precious personal time and traveled hundreds of miles just to ride together on unknown roads in the Black Hills. Thanks, guys, for coming together for the week.

Strong, experienced cyclists all, they pedaled four hard, hot days on rough roads through remote backcountry with nothing but smiles, good cheer, laughter, enthusiasm, and cooperation. And they trusted me to show them great back roads, as well as the way home, notwithstanding plenty of reason to doubt.

I'll ride with you guys anytime.

Lane Bergen chills while Jeff Bloom, Mark Hoffman & Ben Cooper set up camp.
End of Day 1 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Here's a link to the RideWithGPS.com collection for our 2021 Black Hills Bounty, as ridden. 2021 Black Hills Bounty Collection. That page links to digital maps for each day.

You've Got A Friend In Me, Toy Story Theme Song, Randy Newman (1995)

2021 Black Hills Bounty (Day 4) - End Of The Line

Well, it's alright, ridin' around in the breeze

Well, it's alright, if you live the life you please

Well, it's alright, doin' the best that you can

Well, it's alright, as long as you lend a hand

The End Of The Line, Bob Dylan, George Harrison, Jeff Lynn, Ray Orbison, Tom Petty (1988)

Cautiously coasting toward a buffalo herd on Lame Johnny Road in Custer State Park.
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Day 4 of the Black Hills Bounty starts with some roster changes and a resulting big audible. 

Ben Cooper rode every bit and then some of the Black Hills Bounty during the time he had available and now on Day 4 must return to North Platte to honor family commitments. Paul Brasby brought family along for a week's vacation in the Black Hills and has seen them off and on. To honor his family commitments on Day 5, Paul plans to ride the morning of Day 4 but return to Custer rather than remote camp, and then spend Day 5 with family. 

I know that the other 3 guys have commitments at home later in the week and had planned Day 5 to be a pretty short day anyway. So I ask what they'd think of modifying Day 4 to loop back to Custer with Paul and simply save the remote campsite and the roads of short Day 5 for another time. With 3 big days behind us, a full day ahead and each facing a long drive home, we agree to call the 2021 Black Hills Bounty good after Day 4.

Another DEAD END? Really? Are you sure? Yep, that's the way.
Craig Groseth, Jeff Bloom, Paul Brasby, Lane Bergen, Mark Hoffman
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

So, with that big audible, we roll out of Custer for a Day 4 grand finale ride of a big 60 mile loop south and east into the buffalo and burro country of Custer State Park and Wind Cave National Park. We'll ride the first 43 miles to Pringle, as originally planned. Then, instead of riding south 17 miles on Secondary and Low Standard Roads to a dispersed campsite, we'll turn north 15 miles on the popular Mickelson Trail back to Custer.

But not before another hearty breakfast at Baker's Bakery in downtown Custer. It's habit forming.

Lane Bergen and Mark Hoffman lead the way toward Custer State Park.
Early on Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Fully loaded on burritos and pancakes, we drop south out of Custer on Sidney Park Road (793), climb a little for a couple of miles on Hazelrodt Cutoff Road (343) and then quickly descend to Lower French Creek Road (342) all the way down to the Hazelrodt Picnic Area at about 9 miles. It happens so fast. And ends just as fast at a sign. DEAD END. 

Imagine that. Everyone stops and looks at me. Yes, of course, this is the way. (I think). Yes, this goes through. (I think). Yes, somehow. (I think). Yes, keep going that way. (I think).

That DEAD END sign was accurate, at least for motorized traffic.
We pass through the gate and onto some smooth single track.
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

The road turns rough and passes a few cabins, ending at a fence. But there's an opening for non-motorized traffic and a mellow single track beckons from the other side. We squeeze our bikes through and amble down the single track, which starts as smooth dirt and gradually dissipates to little more than bent grass. Dropping toward French Creek, we spot a bridge and bee-line to it. On the other side lies paved Highway 87 near the Blue Bell Picnic Area.

Road closed, schmoad closed. We're through and now into Custer State Park.

Jeff Bloom, Mark Hoffman, Paul Brasby navigate the barely-track.
Early on Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

We ride less than a mile of pavement to turn onto graveled Lame Johnny Road (CSP 4), which drops into the French Creek Horse Camp. This is a large state campground developed specifically for folks to camp with their horses and ride the surrounding trails. The 111 mile single track Centennial Trail also wanders through this camp on its meandering path through the Black Hills from Bear Butte to Wind Cave National Park. We stop for some cool water and soft pedal through.

Climbing out the French Creek valley, the forest thins a bit and someone asks when we should start looking out for buffalo. Anytime you are in Custer State Park, I respond. They can be anywhere, including in the trees, where you don't expect them. With that said, we round a corner to face a couple hundred of buffalo lounging all over the road.

Our short single track connector ends at a bridge over French Creek.
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

There's not much room in this narrow valley to pass so many buffalo and this herd does not look overly interested in moving. Many lie in the tall grass, while others graze. What really stands out amongst the big beasts are the many lighter colored calves. 

This is not a herd of buffalo to underestimate or, worse, to try to order around. The entire herd will aggressively protect every one of those calves milling about. And those mammoth bulls on the outer edges will protect everyone else. We are not about to get very close.

Black Hills traffic jam. Don't mess with buffalo, especially with calves.
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

We cautiously coast toward the buffalo and they begin to move down the road. I know that the road forks ahead in a little bit. If the buffalo will move that far, we can just take whatever fork they don't.

That sounds like a good plan, until a group of cars approach from the other way. The buffalo not only stop, but some look to be coming back our way. Now we retreat and look for another option.

We consider crossing a ridge to skirt the scene, but only find more buffalo in that direction. So, we wait on the road. More automobile traffic appears, from both directions. Stalemate.

The entire herd quickly and decisively moves to protect every calf.
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Eventually, the buffalo decide that they've had enough and move more quickly down the road along the adjoining hillside. Some cars start to move in the same direction and we tag along with them. Before long, we all reach the fork. The buffalo go left, up and out of the valley. So, we say "Have A Great Day" and turn right.

The trees all but disappear as we drop heavily into the rolling hills at the prairie's edge. In about 7 miles, we descend over 1,000 feet to breathlessly land at the Custer State Park Wild Life Visitors Center. Now, that was a sudden change of pace and landscape. We take a break at a shelter, which surprisingly offers a pop vending machine, along with cold water. Nice.

Jeff Bloom powers up Red Valley Road (CSP 6) to the ridgeline border with Wind Cave National Park.
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

We follow the paved Wildlife Loop for just 2 miles before crunching gravel again on Red Valley Road (CSP 6). Near that intersection, a large number of parked cars draw my attention to scores of people walking out on the prairie. I follow the moving lines to a pack of burros enjoying lunch.

These wild burros originally came to this area as pack animals in the 1800's. Some made their way into the wild and these descendants are managed in the park as wild animals. In any event, the burros are long time favorites of tourists and locals.

We pause on a climb in Wind Cave National Park for another buffalo crossing.
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Riding south on Red Valley Road, we cross the border into Wind Cave National Park and briskly drop down Boland Ridge. Most tourists go to Wind Cave National Park, well, to see the big cave. That leaves almost all of the 28,000+ acres above ground free of tourist traffic, unlike busy Custer State Park. I ride these sweet gravel back roads at least a few times a year and rarely see more than a car or two.

On the other hand, every single time I've ridden Highland Ridge Road (NPS 5) in Wind Cave National Park, I have seen buffalo. And these beasts are not accustomed to vehicle traffic. So, not surprisingly, we pause for a herd slowly moving across the road.

Paul Brasby and Jeff Bloom spin up another pitch along Highland Ridge Road.
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Cresting a final pitch up Highland Ridge, we meet a real Trail Angel, a friendly young man from North Carolina visiting the Black Hills for the first time. Polite and engaging, he graciously offers each of us water and makes sure that we're OK. It's like manna from heaven.

After taking a few pictures from that vantage point, we beat feet over to the first shade in miles. We've ridden almost 30 miles today and most of the remaining 28 miles are uphill. Water and lunch await at Pringle, a one bar settlement about 13 sunny, exposed miles and 1,000 feet uphill from here.

Coasting down to another intersection with the Centennial Trail, we pass alongside yet another herd of buffalo and ride directly through a prairie dog colony. Stay alert. Those are not potholes in the gravel road, but rather holes to prairie dog burrows.

Shade bandits taking a break from the heat and hills in Wind Cave National Park.
Craig Groseth, Jeff Bloom, Mark Hoffman, Paul Brasby
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

We finally climb out of Wind Cave National Park back into Black Hills National Forest. Almost immediately, we spot the historic Cold Spring School, a log cabin school built in 1887 and restored in 1965, and the adjacent Cold Spring Cemetery, with grave stones dating back to the 1880's. There's also a functioning outhouse of the same vintage.

Turning onto Beaver Creek Road (391), we wind along a scenic valley, up a serious pitch to paved U.S. Highway 385, and then drop a short spell to Pringle. It's past time for lunch and there's not much at the Hitch Rail Bar. We buy what we can, eat what we have, refill water and turn north on the Mickelson Trail for a gradual 15 mile climb back to Custer.

Cruising along Highland Ridge Road through Wind Cave National Park, heading up into the Hills.
Lane Bergen, Jeff Bloom, Mark Hoffman, Craig Groseth
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Once clear of Pringle by a few miles, the Mickelson Trail meanders through a series of meadows and valleys sprinkled with occasional granite outcroppings and small ranches. This is a pleasant cool down to a hot day riding mostly out on the transitional hills between forest and prairie. 

After several encounters with herds of buffalo, but only one audible, we ride back into Custer at about 58 miles and over 3,700 feet of elevation gain. Our final day on the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Bicycle "sculpture" at Pringle.
Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Here's a link to the RideWithGPS.com map I created for Day 4 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty, as ridden by Craig, Jeff, Lane, Mark and Paul. 2021 Black Hills Bounty - Day 4.

For my prior posts on the 2021 Black Hills Bounty, go to Day 0 - Come Together, Day 1 - Start Of Something Good, and Day 2 - Trust, and Day 3 - All American.

End Of The Line, Traveling Wilburys (1988)

2021 Black Hills Bounty (Day 3) - All American

I'm proud to be an American

Where at least I know I'm free

And I won't forget the men who died

Who gave that right to me

And I'll gladly stand up

Next to you and defend her still today

Cause there aint no doubt I love this land

God bless the USA

God Bless The USA, Lee Greenwood (1984)

Mark Hoffman, Ben Cooper, Lane Bergen, Craig Groseth, Jeff Bloom, Paul Brasby
Mount Rushmore, The Shrine Of Democracy
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty

Layover Day! 

On Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty, we drop all our bikepacking gear at our campground in Custer to ride a paved road loop of iconic Iron Mountain Road and Needles Highway, with a memorable stop at Mount Rushmore National Monument. This is a bucket list ride for many cyclists, motorcyclists and motorists, near and far. The Black Hills Bounty posse is stoked, to say the least.

Look uphill through the trees. Paul Brasby spins up a series of switchbacks on Iron Mountain Road.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

This is not a rest day, even though our bikes are much lighter without all that gear and most of our miles are paved. We're still looking at almost 60 miles and 6,300 feet of elevation gain in the heat of June.  

Bring it on. We fuel on big breakfast burritos, omelettes, pancakes and cinnamon rolls at Baker's Bakery in downtown Custer. Spirits are high. This promises to be a ride to remember.

Jeff Bloom, Lane Bergen and Ben Cooper
piggyback on a car through a one lane tunnel.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

We roll east on the paved bike path running parallel to U.S. Highway 16A, the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway. We soon pass the Gordon Stockade, a restored encampment from the 1874 Custer Expedition that discovered gold in the Black Hills. Bismarck Lake and Legion Lake fly by. Boy, this feels light and fast.

We turn onto the lower stretch of Needles Highway (U.S. Highway 87) for a few miles to access Playhouse Road (753), which rolls up to re-connect with U.S. 16A, also known here as Iron Mountain Road or Pig Tail Highway. Up to now, the ride has been scenic and fun. Now, it turns iconic.

Mark Hoffman rounds a corner on Iron Mountain Road
to see Mount Rushmore framed by the forest itself.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Almost immediately, the road reaches a ridgeline with big views all around, including an occasional glimpse of Mount Rushmore through the forest. Over the next 3 miles of sweeping curves and steep switchbacks, we climb almost 1,000 feet to reach the Norbeck Overlook atop Iron Mountain. This ride is starting to warm up.

The Overlook is packed with tourists, even on this Wednesday morning, so we ride on. Rounding a bend, we abruptly drop that 1,000 feet over the next 4 miles of twisting, curving, narrow pavement. We lean through 270 degree turns over and then under pig tail bridges and squirt through one lane tunnels. The road even splits a couple of times, so we have a narrow lane all to ourselves to drop even faster.

Ben Cooper, Jeff Bloom, Mark Hoffman, Paul Brasby and Lane Bergen
celebrate another one lane tunnel on Iron Mountain Road.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Just as abruptly, that sweet downhill ends and we stare up a 2 mile, 800 foot climb to Mount Rushmore, with a pitch exceeding 14%. We each find our own rhythm here and grind up to the steady beat of tourist traffic.

Mount Rushmore National Monument charges $10 per vehicle to park in the multi-level garage, but there is no entry fee per se. As such, bicyclists are greeted by attendants with a smile and a wave-through. Once up to the entrance, you can actually walk your bike directly into the Monument, including right up to the main viewing pavilion.

Riding west of Mount Rushmore reveals a profile of George Washington.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

We filter into the air conditioned cafeteria for lunch and treats. The burgers are good, but the ice cream merits its own area and draws the longest lines. This is quite a change from eating peanut butter/honey tortilla wraps sitting on a rock under a tree along some remote road.

We assemble outside for pictures and a last close-up look around Mount Rushmore. Laughs, smiles and good vibes abound. We've already ridden through a highlight reel of roads and we're not even halfway through the day.

Mark Hoffman, Jeff Bloom and Ben Cooper spin up toward Needles Highway.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Riding west of Mount Rushmore on 244, we roll down and up large rollers alongside substantial tourist traffic. About 6 miles later, at about 33 miles on the day, we finally hit our first gravel at Palmer Gulch Road (357). This rolling 2-3 miles of gravel restores a bit of the remote road vibe of the Bounty. 

Palmer Gulch Road also starts the day's final substantial climb of about 1,600 feet over the next 8.5 miles. But almost half of that elevation gain shoots up in a 2.5 mile series of steep switchbacks. This is a grind, but our bikes are still unloaded and the surface is still paved. It's not hard, it just takes time.

Jeff Bloom is pleased to clear those climbing switchbacks.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

We re-group again at the intersection of Needles Highway (87) and Sylvan Lake Road (89). The big climbs are behind us and just ahead lie some big final highlights, including Sylvan Lake, Needles Eye, Cathedral Spires and the sweet downhill scream down Needles Highway. But it's also 17 more miles and 1,200 more feet of elevation gain to reach the end of this planned route to Custer. At this time of day, that's not nothing, even for this group.

There is an option to turn south on Sylvan Lake Road for a scenic 6 mile primarily downhill cruise to our campground in Custer. That would still be a memorable 46 mile/5,000+ foot elevation gain day.

Not surprisingly, no one takes the short cut. No one even considers it aloud. In fact, I think they took offense that I even mentioned the possibility. They want the big stuff ahead.

Lane Bergen threads through some spires on Needles Highway.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

After a quick stop at Sylvan Lake, we spin up the last mile or two to Needle's Eye, the signature granite rock formation at the top of this rise. Folks congregate here to scramble on the vertical spires and to soak in the big views. The Cathedral Spires lie to the east, attracting hard core rock climbers from all over. To the south lie the Needles and, eventually, the rolling transition to prairie. 

After a final squeeze through a one lane tunnel, we drop, drop, drop for almost 6 miles down curvy Needles Highway. This is a hoop and holler ride all the way down, and for a long spell afterward. We don't have many pictures on this stretch, I suspect because we're all just hanging on for the ride.

Jeff Bloom snaps a few more pictures before descending Needles Highway.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

All screaming downhills eventually end and all these bikepackers eventually return to gravel. We turn off Needles Highway onto American Center Road (345) for a rolling 6 miles of good gravel back toward Custer. We spin through the forest and pass a few small ranches, as the day winds down.

Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty is filled with big memory highlights, all day long. It ends on a quiet gravel road, reminding us of the days behind, and the days ahead.

These mountains are ancient. A 2 billion year old Precambrian core uplifted 70 million years ago.
At the time, the peaks exceeded 15,000 feet, but even granite wears down eventually.
Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Riding our bikepacking bikes up iconic Iron Mountain Road and Needles Highway, with a lunch stop at Mount Rushmore and a couple of gravel connectors, we finish Day 3 in Custer after about 57 miles and 6,300 feet of elevation gain. And not one audible.

Here's a link to the RideWithGPS.com map I created for Day 3 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty, as ridden by Ben, Craig, Jeff, Lane, Mark and Paul. 2021 Black Hills Bounty - Day 3.

For my prior posts on the 2021 Black Hills Bounty, go to Day 0 - Come Together, Day 1 - Start Of Something Good, and Day 2 - Trust.

God Bless The USA, Lee Greenwood, USAF Band, Singing Sergeants & Home Free (2020)

2021 Black Hills Bounty (Day 2) - Trust

Trust I seek and I find in you

Everyday for us something new

Open mind for a different view

And nothing else matters.

Nothing Else Matters, Lars Ulrich & James Hetfield (1991) 

Say, what?
Ben Cooper, Paul Brasby, Lane Bergen, Jeff Bloom, Mark Hoffman
Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

"How'd the Mickelson Trail get here?"

Now that's something every out-of-stater wants to hear from the guy creating and leading a five day bicycle ride on rough, remote roads through sparsely populated backcountry with practically no cell coverage. Does he know where he's going? Does he even know where he is?

But these guys heard me say that early on Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty. And they still trusted me to show them the way.

It matters.

Paul Brasby and Mark Hoffman cruising down Black Fox Camp Road.
Early on Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty opens clear and warm at our impromptu dispersed campsite a couple of miles off the summit of Flag Mountain. Everyone rises early, eager to ride. Not surprisingly, Jeff Bloom immediately fires up his stove to brew the first cup of coffee of the day. Paul Brasby apparently orders room service and dines in. Ben Cooper and Mark Hoffman cook a quick breakfast and get to packing their bikes. And Tour Divide veteran Lane Bergen efficiently goes about his business and then patiently waits for the rest of us. 

After yesterday's extended ride in the heat, everyone looks forward to today's start. The first 15 miles flow down Black Fox Camp Road (233), one of my favorite dirt roads anywhere, and then picturesque South Rapid Creek Road (231). On several rides in the past, I've seen elk grazing and beaver working along these streams. Today the wildlife lay low, as we joyously rollick along a narrow canyon that opens to a lush valley.

Mark Hoffman, Jeff Bloom, Craig Groseth warming up on South Rapid Creek Road.
Early on Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

At an intersection with Low Standard Road 191, we re-group. For some reason, Ben's GPS device beeps to turn south on this steep, rough, meandering dirt road that boasts substantial standing water from last night's rain. I've ridden 191 and admittedly included it in an early draft of Day 2. However, I later removed it due to its relatively lower reward/work assessment and the overall length of the rest of the day. It's a fun road to ride, but the standard for inclusion in the Black Hills Bounty is high.

Ben's GPX file for Day 2 must have been one of those early drafts. This does not inspire confidence with the troops in the accuracy of the other GPX maps that I sent out. I really don't know, as I only use hard copy maps. And the hard copy maps clearly do not take 191 here.

No audible here. We continue down South Rapid Creek Road.

Paul Brasby and Ben Cooper flying down Castle Peak Road.
 Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

After 15 miles of primarily downhill, we grind about 3 miles up South Rochford Road (17) and a short pitch up a rough road. But then, the next 11 miles drop down narrow, winding Castle Peak Road 181, often right beside Castle Creek. This stretch is a Black Hills treasure, especially when mud-soaked and littered with water-filled potholes. 

Not today. Too bad. I had hoped for an immoderate amount of standing water here, just for the group's edification.

Popping out of Castle Peak Road, we coast down Mystic Road (318) the final 2 miles to the Mystic Trailhead of the Mickelson Trail. Here we find cold water, bathrooms, a shelter with picnic tables, and a steady stream of cyclists enjoying the well maintained, rails-to-trails Mickelson Trail. That first 31 miles sure passed quickly.

Lane Bergen busts down Castle Peak Road.
Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

At the Mystic Trailhead, Jeff, Mark and Paul surprisingly greet a cyclist friend from Kansas, Jackie Hattle-Gregory, who is leading her own group of friends on a multiple day ride of the Mickelson Trail. What a small world. And cycling trails like the Mickelson Trail help make it smaller.

Our loaded bikes draw attention and questions from several others at the Trailhead, but eventually we return to pedaling. Breaking from all the remote back roads, we ourselves turn onto the Mickelson Trail for a steady five mile climb to cross a large trestle and ride through two hard rock tunnels. Although uphill, this gentle grade on a solid surface is downright relaxing.

The only water hole in the entire 11 mile Castle Peak Road. Sigh.
Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

Once clear of the tunnels, we turn back onto the rough stuff on Horse Creek Road (530) for a short uphill  pitch and a bouncy descent to Slate Creek. Then, for the first time all day, we drop to our lowest gears, and often wish for a lower one, to climb about 3 miles up unnamed Low Standard Road 530.1A. After all these idyllic downhill miles and rail-to-trails miles to start the day, we actually have to work a bit here. How rude.

We also run into a little ATV/UTV traffic here, which provides an occasional break. These vehicles are popular out here, but relatively few venture as remote as we ride. Those folks are generally courteous and one even cheers me on as I grunt up a steep. We're all just out there, enjoying the Black Hills.

Engineer Ben Cooper shows Mark Hoffman how to negotiate a train tunnel.
Day 2 on the 2021 Black Hills Bounty. 

Cresting a final pitch up to a ridgeline, we are rewarded with views of Harney Peak and a short downhill to Low Standard Road 389.1D. Now, we're rocking down rough two track toward the historic Gold Mountain Mine. It's heating up and time for a break.

The Gold Mountain Mine is no longer an operating gold mine, but has been structurally restored as part of this historic site, with interpretive signs along walkways passing by the various structures. We casually stroll about, soaking in the history and moving some muscles in ways different from pedaling.

Main gold processing unit at the historic Gold Mountain Mine.
Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

From the Gold Mountain Mine, we quickly drop down Burnt Fork Road (389) to intersect with both Deerfield Road (306) and the Mickelson Trail. Looking at the remaining mileage, elevation gain, and time,  as well as the building heat, I call our first audible of the day.

The plan calls for a right turn (northwest) on the Mickelson Trail for 1.5 miles to access Battle Axe Road (386), a USFS Secondary Road that winds about 5 miles south. It's a fun gravel road showcased on several Black Hills Gravel Series routes. However, to shorten this day a bit and to add a few miles on the popular Mickelson Trail for these out-of-state cyclists, we instead turn left (south) on the Mickelson Trail. We'll take it the remaining 20 miles to Custer.

Bikers invade a convenience store in Hill City.
Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

The 5 downhill miles to Hill City roll quickly and we re-group at a convenience store at the south end of town. This is the first convenience store we've encountered on the entire trip and this gravel savvy crew takes full advantage. Pop, chips, candy bars, chocolate milk, ice cream. All the essential nutrients to fuel the remaining miles on a long, hot day. 

We spin up the final 10 mile climb to Crazy Horse Memorial and coast 5 miles down to Custer. This is a sweet finish to a full day of riding. We check into our rented tipis at the Fort WeLikIt Campground in Custer, clean up bikes and bodies, and look for the biggest burgers in town. Before burgers, however, Lucas Haan, Mr. BlackHillsGravel.com himself, shows up with smiles, enthusiasm, and microbrews for everyone. He even brings replacements for Paul's cantankerous pedals. A great way to end a great Day 2.

Riding to our accommodations for the night.
Tipis at the Fort WeLikIt Campground in Custer.
End of Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty.

After a series of signature Secondary and Low Standard roads, the popular Mickelson Trail, and just one audible, we end Day 2 in Custer after 62 miles and 3,700 feet of elevation gain.

Here's a link to the RideWithGPS.com map I created for Day 2 of the 2021 Black Hills Bounty, as ridden by Ben, Craig, Jeff, Lane, Mark and Paul. 2021 Black Hills Bounty - Day 2.

For my prior posts on the 2021 Black Hills Bounty, go to Day 0 - Come Together and Day 1 - Start Of Something Good.

Nothing Else Matters, Metallica (2007)