A WarmUp on the Mickelson Trail

Guess who just got back today?

Them wild-eyed boys that had been away

Haven't changed, haven't much to say

But man, I still think them cats are great

The Boys Are Back In Town, Phil Lynott (1976)

Enjoying the shade and cooler temperatures through a Mickelson Trail tunnel.

The Mickelson Trail is a 109 mile rails-to-trails treasure that winds through much of the Black Hills of South Dakota, from the gold mines of Deadwood to the railroad center of Edgemont. Folks travel from all over to ride it, and many locals ride it over and over.

Although I've ridden it many times, in many different ways, I have not been out there this year at all. In fact, since my truncated 24 Hours in the Old Pueblo race in February, I haven't ridden much of anything longer than an hour or two. For some reason, I always find a reason not to ride long these days.

So, when long time cycling friend Mark Almer of Colorado (finally) retired and announced he was (finally, no really this time) riding the Mickelson Trail, I suggested a fully loaded bikepacking tour from Edgemont to Deadwood to Edgemont. In addition to riding every bit of the entire trail, both directions, such a multi-day bikepacking ride would also be a nice warmup ride before the upcoming Black Hills Bounty.

The Mickelson Trail is a natural gear shakedown ride for an aspiring bikepacker like Mark:  no navigation, no technical riding, very few road crossings, frequent trailheads with water, multiple re-supply opportunities, and little motorized traffic other than the ubiquitous e-bike rentals around Hill City. With all that simplified, Mark can focus on gear, the bike, and time in the saddle, while enjoying the off-road experience of a beautiful rails-to-trails system. He readily agreed.

Just a week after that conversation, we eagerly pedaled north out of Edgemont on our little excursion. Four hot summer days and 218 trail miles later, we returned sun scorched, less than fully hydrated, and perhaps a bit saddle sore. But we're fully charged for a run at the Black Hills Bounty next month. 

Not every ride is epic or life changing. But this was my best ride this month. And I can't wait to get back out there.

The Boys Are Back In Town, Thin Lizzy (1976).

2025 Black Hills Bounty - Aint Worried

I don't know what you've been told,

But time is running out, no need to take it slow.

I'm stepping to you toe to toe,

I should be scared, honey, maybe so.

But I aint worried 'bout it right now (right now),

Keeping dreams alive, 1999 heroes.

I aint worried 'bout it right now (right now),

Swimming in the floods, dancing on the clouds below,

I aint worried 'bout it. 

I Aint Worried, Ryan Tedder, Brent Kutzle, Tyler Spry, John Eriksson, Peter Moren & Bjorn Yttling (2022).

AI composite image of a Black Hills Bounty rider.
JK - this is Gustaf Hakansson, the famous "Steel Grandpa."

The 2025 Black Hills Bounty approaches.

Bikepacking buddy Paul Brasby inspired this ride during our 2020 Cloud Peak 500 adventure by asking me to create a week-long bikepacking tour of the Black Hills of South Dakota. At the time, he was diving headlong into bikepacking and longed to share this new-found passion with his friend circle of experienced cyclists.

Since then, Paul has enthusiastically herded friends from Nebraska, Kansas, Missouri, and Colorado to join week long tours through the Central Black Hills (2021), the Southern Black Hills (2022), the Northern Black Hills/Bear Lodge Mountains (2023), and along my BackBone Grande route from the Nebraska border to Spearfish (2024). See, Black Hills Bounty Page (2021-present).

After four years, they're still coming back for more, drawing more friends each year. 

It's all coming up again soon.

And this group just shows up and rides. Aint worried about a thing.

The Official Theme Song for the Black Hills Bounty.

I Aint Worried, New Republic (2022).

BackBone Buffet Update - It Gets Better

I'm going up the rough side of the mountain on my way home, meet my people (Trying to get home)

I'm going up the rough side of the mountain on my way home, oh yeah (Trying to get home)

I'm going (Climbing)

Up the rough side of the mountain (Climbing)

Oh, Jesus (Climbing)

On my way (Climbing)

Climbing Higher Mountains, Traditional.

Contrary to the sign, USFS 818.1A is not a "DEAD END" for those on a bicycle.

Last month I introduced the BackBone Buffet, my new rough road bikepacking route showcasing the best of the Central Black Hills of South Dakota. I've ridden all the roads on the route, although not in one ride put together this way. I look forward to bikepacking it this summer. See, Introducing The BackBone Buffet.

Starting the climb up to Elk Mountain Lookout Tower on USFS Low Standard Road 818.1A.

The BackBone Buffet started with the idea of creating an easily accessible 4-5 day rough road bikepacking loop smack in the middle of the Black Hills. With all my riding, scouting, and routing throughout that area over the years, I decided not to start from scratch, but rather cherry-pick favorite sections of my original BackBone, DoubleBackBone, BackBone Grande, BackBone DoubleGrande (not yet released) and even some Black Hills Bounty roads and combine them in a single 200 mile loop out of Hill City.

Those existing routes occasionally intersect, e.g., the original BackBone and the BackBone Grande meet on Black Fox Camp Road, but connecting the chosen sections often required some distance of different roads. Eventually, I fashioned together and published the loop. BackBone Buffet - RideWithGPS Map.

Looking back on the climb up USFS Low Standard Road 818.1A.

Analyzing those new connectors more closely over time and coffee, I unearthed a couple of areas to improve. For example, I did not particularly like the connection from the bottom of Red Bird Canyon (about Mile 103) to Dewey Road (USFS Primary Road 769) (about Mile 108) and beyond. That stretch required over 5 miles on paved U.S. Highway 16, followed by more miles on highly developed Dewey Road before finally reaching some primo Bounty roads to McKenna Spring. There must be a better way.

So, from USFS paper maps and RideWithGPS satellite images, I pieced together a possible re-route that turned off U.S. Highway 16 a couple of miles short of Dewey Road onto an unnumbered, double-dashed, apparently abandoned "Road Closed Yearlong To Motorized Traffic." After about a mile, that "road" t-boned into USFS Low Standard Road 818.1A for a suck-it-up steep pitch to a fire lookout tower and then a gradual descent over to Dewey Road. What's not to love about that! 

It looked to be an awesome add to the BackBone Buffet, and possibly to the BackBone DoubleGrande, if that first mile of abandoned "road" is public. However, I could not determine that from home, since it was not clearly labeled and passed through private land. Time for a road trip.

Elk Mountain Lookout Tower, with 360 degree views from the top.

Score! That little unnumbered, double-dashed "road" is a public road that actually does connect with USFS Low Standard Road 818.1A. It is closed to motorized vehicles yearlong, but is always open for travel by foot, horse, and bicycle. Sweet!

Know that it's not easy. From the paved highway, the route climbs over 700 feet in the first 2 miles and another 400 feet in the next 2.5 miles, with at least one pitch of 19% (according to RideWithGPS). But the 360 degree views from atop the lookout tower are breathtaking, as are the sharp elevation drop views along the relatively long, gradual descent.

Uffda! 

Absolutely I added it to both the BackBone Buffet and the BackBone DoubleGrande.

So, for anyone riding any of my routes, check the RideWithGPS file for the latest update. 

I'm always looking for the best.

Updated BackBone Buffet map on RideWithGPS, showing the climb up Elk Mountain Lookout Tower.
The new section leaves U.S. 16 to climb to the tower and then descend to Dewey Road.

Same map as above, but in "Google Terrain" mode to show relief. Would you look at that!

Climbing Higher Mountains, Aretha Franklin (1972).

2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 7) - Going Home

Well, I'm going home, back to the place where I belong

And where your love has always been enough for me.

I'm not running from, no, I think you got me all wrong.

I don't regret this life I chose for me.

But these places and these faces are getting old,

So, I'm going home.

Home, Chris Daughtry (2007).

Emerging from Lost Canyon onto Old Baldy Road (USFS Low Standard Road 633.1).
(image by Luke Derstein)

Day 7 of the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.

Rapid City, South Dakota is my home and the Black Hills are my backyard. Riding into the Hills for a day, a week, or longer isn't leaving home for me.

But it is for the rest of the crew on the Bounty. They all traveled hundreds of miles from their regular lives with families and friends in Nebraska and Kansas, just to ride together for a week in the Black Hills. 

So, on Day 7, they're going home.

Descending out of Lost Canyon on an abandoned road. 
(image by Paul Brasby)

Camping at the bottom of a narrow canyon makes for a memorable evening, but also a cold morning. So, we break camp quickly and layer up for the relatively short, (mostly) downhill ride into Spearfish. We're rolling down Lost Canyon long before the first direct sunlight reaches our site.

As customary, the final day of the Bounty is, at most, a half-day so the crew can start their drive home. But this is still the Black Hills Bounty, which means a mix of challenging near-roads, USFS Low Standard, Secondary, and Primary Roads, and maybe even some pavement. And at least one steep pitch. Well, just because.

Tracking another unnumbered road along Beaver Creek.
(image by Paul Brasby)

In no time, the crew drops out of Lost Canyon and onto Old Baldy Road (USFS Low Standard Road 633.1) and then Schoolhouse Gulch Road (USFS Secondary Road 222). The reprieve on that moderately developed road is very short, however, as we immediately turn onto another unmarked, unnumbered, barely two-track winding up a valley alongside Beaver Creek.

Just as the crew settles into a rhythm on that rough near-road, we turn ninety degrees to face a climb directly up to a distant ridge line. Looking up that steep, loose, rough two track is a bit daunting, especially on a loaded bikepacking bike. But all it really takes is a little focus and a little patience. And a willful ignorance of speed.

Bounty riders prepare for a 90 degree turn onto a steep pitch directly up to a ridge line.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Smooth ridge line cruising on USFS Low Standard Road 130.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Cresting that pitch, we t-bone into a curiously well built and maintained USFS Low Standard Road 130, which rides much more like a solid Secondary Road. Many roads and trails branch off this road as it follows along a nice ridge line. Now, we're cruising.

But we're not done yet. We eventually turn off USFS Low Standard Road 130 onto another one of those unnumbered, unmarked two track near-roads for a rollicking two mile descent that's just rough enough to keep your attention. Too soon, we drop onto Higgins Gulch Road (USFS Secondary Road 214) for the final, champagne gravel road into Spearfish. 

Loading up Paul's toy hauler at Rushmore Bikes in Spearfish.
(image by Luke Derstein)

All loaded up for the drive home.

The sun never did warm up those canyons and gulches we descended that morning. We were cold when finally stopping at Rushmore Bikes in Spearfish. Hard to believe that we started this trip a week ago in the blazing oven of Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.

After a quick change into warmer traveling clothes, we load up bikes and gear in Paul's toy hauler and hit the open road. 

They're going home.

Addendum. Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog post for every post for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.

Home, Daughtry (2007).

2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 6) - The Way To Lost Canyon

This is the way.

Din Djarin, The Mandalorian (2020).

Settling in for the night in Lost Canyon.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Day 6 of the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.

Five days into the 2024 Bounty, we finally loaded up our bikes for self-supported bikepacking to venture deep into the heart of the Black Hills. Over a solid day of pedaling, we rode up rough back roads, through Mickelson Trail tunnels, and along a bucolic valley to a gorgeous Forest Service primitive campground. After a rough start, we were back. See, Back on the BackBone, At Last. 

We awake ready to dive deeper. 

Loaded up at Black Fox Campground to search for Lost Canyon.

On Day 6, we roll up Black Fox Camp Road (USFS Secondary Standard Road 233) to access even rougher roads that eventually claw up to picturesque USFS Hanna Campground. The walk-in camping area there would be a great place for bikepackers to stay, but it's far too early for that today. So, we drop a few miles to popular Cheyenne Crossing for a scrumptious meal.

Then we coast down cliff-lined Spearfish Canyon to Roughlock Falls Road (USFS Secondary Road 222.3). Motorized vehicle traffic picks up for a mile or so as we spin up the well-traveled, wash-boarded gravel road to the falls. After that tourist destination, traffic thankfully dwindles, even with two USFS campgrounds further upstream.

Not surprisingly, the striking scenery does not let up. Bright fall colors paint the stark canyon.

Roughlock Falls Road (USFS Secondary Road 222.3).
(image by Paul Brasby)

Western reaches of Roughlock Falls Road (USFS Secondary Road 222.3).
(image by Paul Brasby)

Emerging from that canyon, we obligingly grind a very short stretch of Tinton Road (USFS Primary Road 134), a veritable autobahn of a gravel road, to connect with Schoolhouse Gulch Road (USFS Secondary Road 222). Sigh of relief. Let's get back on the good stuff.

Schoolhouse Gulch Road starts out pretty smooth, rolling up gently along grass filled meadows and pine stuffed hills. It's a relaxing, contemplative spin into the Northern Hills backcountry. There's little development, other than the nice gravel road, fence lines, and a small reservoir for cattle.

Schoolhouse Gulch Road (USFS Secondary Road 222).
(image by Luke Derstein)

School house Gulch Road (USFS Secondary Road 222).
(image by Paul Brasby)

With the oh-so-pleasant ride and a hardly signed road, it would be very easy for the inattentive rider to miss the turn onto Pettigrew Gulch Road. So, we pay attention and continue on the way to Lost Canyon. For the next half mile, that USFS two track winds between fence lines and a few structures, before abruptly turning 90 degrees to drop down a little hill back into Black Hills National Forest. 

Then the "road' slowly dissipates to little more than grass occasionally trampled by cattle. It's National Forest land, but the road is long ago abandoned. It does not even show up on official USFS maps.

Pettigrew Gulch Road. Yes, that's a USFS Low Standard Road onto which we turned.
(image by Paul Brasby)

One fence to open/close on the abandoned road near Bonanza Gulch.
(image by Luke Derstein)

But it's there, generally tracking a creek and sometimes discernible from the remains of a built road bed long since covered and re-covered with vegetation. After negotiating a gated fence, we round a corner and there it is.

Lost Canyon.

Seeking sites for tents in Lost Canyon.

Sheer rock walls close in from both sides, creating a narrow canyon through which flows a happy little creek. The abandoned road bed reappears on the now rocky ground, revealing a bit of a shoulder and the makings of an old two track. The road bed forms the only somewhat flat surface between canyon wall and creek, so we fan out to find spots to pitch our tents. 

As shadows from the setting sun crawl up the opposing canyon wall, the sights, sounds, and smells of dinner drift over our small encampment. A small campfire draws the crew together as the evening fades to black on our final night on the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.

This is the way.

Jeff''s tent as shadows lengthen in Lost Canyon.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Small tent city emerges in Lost Canyon.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Paul's choice site along Beaver Creek.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Dinner time as the sun drops.
(image by Luke Derstein)

Memorable final evening on the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Addendum. I found Lost Canyon while scouting "roads" for the BackBone Grande, my bikepacking route that crosses the State of South Dakota through the best of the Black Hills and surrounding prairie. See, BackBone Grande Page. This little known canyon is featured in an introductory post of the BackBone Grande (Northern Black Hills & Beyond) and a post on the first through-ride (Low Standard & Lower). I also included it on a Black Hills Bike Hub 2024 group bikepacking ride. Searching for, finding, riding, and sharing such gems is what I love to do. 

Back to the Bounty, here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog posts for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.

The Mandalorian, Ludwig Goransson (2020).

2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 5) - Back on the BackBone Grande, At Last

At last, my love has come along

My lonely days are over, and life is like a song, oh yeah.

At last, the skies above are blue

My heart was wrapped up in clover, the night I looked at you.

At Last, Mack Gordon & Harry Warren (1941)

Castle Peak Road, USFS Low Standard Road 181.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Day 5 of the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.

After a rough start and audibles every day, we fully load up bikes to bikepack the BackBone Grande route from Hill City to Spearfish, as planned.

At last.

Early climbing on USFS Low Standard Road 389 past Gold Mountain Mine.
(image by Paul Brasby)

The sky is blue above USFS Low Standard Road 389.1A.

Back on the BackBone Grande, Bounty riders rolled north out of Hill City on the Mickelson Trail for a few miles to dive deep into the Black Hills. After a short stop at the refurbished Gold Mountain Mine along USFS Low Standard Road 389, we cranked up rough roads to ridge line views of higher granite peaks, now far behind to the south. In the Heart of the Hills lies the heart of this year's Black Hills Bounty.

Pace and distance dropped, not only from the terrain and road surface, but from the weight of bikes fully loaded for the first time all week. That extra 30 pounds, or so, required significantly more power to hoist man and machine over hills. More to the point, riding fully loaded demands a mindset dislodged from that of conventional day rides.

It's all about the journey.

Spinning up the home stretch on South Rapid Creek Road, USFS Primary Road 231.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Approaching Black Fox Camp on South Rapid Creek Road, USFS Primary Road 231.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Emerging from the first stretch of Low Standard Roads, we turned back on the Mickelson Trail for a series of bridges and tunnels leading to the Mystic townsite and trailhead. That place was busy. In addition to a steady stream of informal day riders, two separate national touring companies, each with more than a dozen riders, gathered there for guided tours. Also, a group of eight horsewomen from Idaho were saddling up their steeds for a day on the Mickelson Trail. Standing room only at the small shelter. 

Ahead awaited Castle Peak Road, USFS Low Standard Road 181, a favorite rough road climb through the dense forest, with a creek to one side and a mountain side to the other. As usual, Castle Peak Road offered a host of chunky rocks and plenty of pot-holes, mostly filled with recent rainfall. After passing a gorgeous campground, the pitch steepened to reach yet another ridge line. Then we quickly dropped to Rochford for a late lunch at the iconic Moonshine Gulch Saloon and lightly spun up a few miles on bucolic South Rapid Creek Road to Black Fox Campground.

All in all, it's a solid day of bikepacking on the BackBone Grande.

At last.

USFS Black Fox Campground.

Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog posts for every post for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.

At Last, Etta James (1960).

At Last, Jahmene Douglas (2014).

2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 4) - Mt. Rushmore Plus

If tomorrow all the things were gone, I'd worked for all my life

And I had to start again, with just my children and my wife

I'd thank my luck stars, to be living here today

Cause the flag still stands for freedom, and they can't take that away.

And I'm proud to be an American, where at least I know I'm free

And I won't forget the men who died, who gave that right to me

And I'd gladly stand up next to you, and defend her still today

Cause there aint no doubt I love this land, God bless the USA

God Bless the USA, Lee Greenwood (1984)

Classic photo op at Mount Rushmore.

Day 4 of the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.

From Custer, the BackBone Grande ventures north and west to eventually ascend to big views atop Coad Hill and plummet down twist-and-shout Reno Gulch Road. It then hops on the relaxing Mickelson Trail through Hill City, before meandering further north and west on some of my favorite USFS Low Standard Roads, including Castle Peak Road, Black Fox Camp Road, and beyond. It's a ride.

When creating the BackBone Grande, I added an optional, off-route loop day ride from Custer and a second off-route loop from Hill City. Both of these loops offer a significant break from backcountry, rough road bikepacking and lead the touring cyclist along a popular destination ride to Sylvan Lake, Needles Highway, Iron Mountain Road (Pigtail Highway), and Mount Rushmore. Cycling enthusiasts travel from all over the world to ride these roads. See, Off-Route Mt. Rushmore Loops.

Climbing Needles Highway in Custer State Park.
(image by Paul Brasby)

The Bounty crew loves that Mt. Rushmore ride, having ridden different versions of it in 2021 and 2022. This year, however, they lacked an additional day to ride one of those off-route loops. Instead, they decided to ride to Mt. Rushmore via a combination of the Custer loop and the Hill City loop. 

More specifically, they rode from Custer to Mt. Rushmore via the first part of the Custer loop and then from Mt. Rushmore to Hill City via the ending part of the Hill City loop. Of course, that meant missing the main route of the BackBone Grande from Hill City to Custer. But it hit all the Mt. Rushmore loop highlights over 37 miles of winding pavement, 5 miles of USFS Low Standard Roads, and 2 miles of single track.

A tourist day of conventional Black Hills highlights.

A stop along Needles Highway reveals the Cathedral Spires, a popular hiking and climbing destination.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Soaking in the sun & scenery along Needles Highway.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Camp Remington Road, a short cut to Iron Mountain Road.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Iron Creek Trail crosses Iron Creek more than a few times.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Five boards pass for a bridge on Iron Creek Trail.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Always smiling, even when not pedaling.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Climbing up Iron Mountain Road, through a few tunnels and pig tail bridges.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Tunnels on Iron Mountain Road frame Mt. Rushmore in the distance.
(image by Luke Derstein)

Even the forest frames Mt. Rushmore from Iron Mountain Road.
(image by Luke Derstein)

Relaxing over lunch under the inspirational Mt. Rushmore.
(image by unknown volunteer)

Taking the long way home to Hill City on USFS Low Standard Road 356. 

This was our final day on lightly loaded bikes. In the morning, we load everything on the bikes for a final 3 day, fully loaded bikepacking ride to Spearfish on the BackBone Grande.

God Bless The U.S.A. (Rock Version), Lee Greenwood & Drew Jacobs (2024)

God Bless The U.S.A., featuring Lee Greenwood,

Home Free, & The Singing Sergeants (2021).

Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog posts for every post for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.

2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 3) - Take It Easy

Take it easy, take it easy

Don't let the sound of your own wheels drive you crazy

Lighten up while you still can

Don't even try to understand

Just find a place to make your stand and take it easy.

Take It Easy, Jackson Browne & Glenn Frye (1972).

Cruising up the Mickelson Trail out of Custer.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Day 3 of the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.

We roust awake in Custer for our traditional breakfast at Baker's Bakery. Yes, it is a bakery and, yes, it is owned by a family with the last name of Baker. And we love everything about it!

We're a full day ahead of our plans to ride the BackBone Grande to Spearfish, due to bypassing a second day of immersion in the heat sink called Buffalo Gap National Grasslands. But even with yesterday's surprisingly solid ride, we know that we're still recovering from that withering first day. So, we opt for a super easy Day 3 and will get back to the original plan after that.

Mickelson Trail.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Mickelson Trail.
(image by Jeff Caldwell)

So, after a hearty breakfast and a pocketful of pastries to go, we spin up the rails-to-trails Mickelson Trail about 7 miles to Crazy Horse Memorial, tool around there for a bit, and coast back to Custer. That's it.

We took it very easy, lightly spinning past a steady stream of granite formations along meadows and streams. The out-of-staters always enjoy some time on the Mickelson Trail and this relaxing stretch passed quickly. 

Then they wandered around Crazy Horse a bit, before flying back down to Custer.

Crazy Horse Memorial.

Crazy Horse Memorial.
(image by Paul Brasby)

That should do it. Everyone was in high spirits and much more comfortable, on and off the bike.

We'll get back on track for Day 4, which looks to climb a circuitous, challenging route leading to Mt. Rushmore for lunch and ultimately Hill City for the evening.

That hopeful tomorrow is made possible by this Take It Easy Day 3.

Take It Easy, Eagles (1972).

Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog posts for every post for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.