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Black Hills BackBone Grande (2023)

Climbing into the Black Hills on Lame Johnny Road in Custer State Park.
(photo by Kevin Fox)

Below I listed and directly linked each blog post about the BackBone Grande, along with the short introduction that I used when sharing it on social media. For a digital map created on RideWithGPS, go to BackBone Grande.


A. Introduction

Introducing the Black Hills BackBone Grande. A new bikepacking route across the State of South Dakota along the spine of the Black Hills on remote roads showcasing the best of our scenery, history, culture, and wildlife. A great ride on its own, and a great shake out ride to prepare for the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route.
The BackBone Grande offers a 400 mile long highlight reel of western South Dakota, including Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, Wind Cave National Park, Custer State Park, Crazy Horse Memorial, Gold Mountain Mine, Mickelson Trail tunnels, Roughlock Falls, Belle Fouche National Wildlife Refuge, Geographic Center of the United States, historic stage coach town of Harding, and hidden gem of the North Cave Hills Unit of Custer Gallatin National Forest.
From both Custer and Hill City, I added optional, off-route day ride loops to Mount Rushmore, Sylvan Lake, Needles Highway, and Iron Mountain Road (aka Pig Tail Highway). Another attractive option is taking a Zero Day at the college/mountain bike town of Spearfish.
The Black Hills BackBone Grande. Bikepack the best of the Black Hills.

My BackBone Grande introduction last week prompted many questions about our roads out here.
So, I'm linking one of my most popular posts: an introduction to the back roads of the Black Hills, with U.S. Forest Service definitions of different categories, my observations of what that looks like out here, and updated with over 40 representative photographs.
If you like this type of riding, the Black Hills offer a lifetime of miles to explore. I'm working on it.

Exploring many miles over the past 10 years built a data base of fun, rarely traveled back roads. Then multi-day and multi-week bikepacking rides changed how I looked at creating routes. Enter the Grande.
In general, the difference between my cross-states routes:
BackBone (2014) & DoubleBackBone (2017) = designed for long gravel rides
BackBone Grande (2022) = designed for multi-day bikepacking gravel/dirt roads
In addition to taking you to unique places the others don't, the Grande tells a story by its numbers. Here's a breakdown by Primary, Secondary, Low Standard, and Paved road. It's a different beast.

Although the BackBone Grande is a point-to-point cross-state route, it's only about 250 driving miles between the start and finish. Getting to and from them is a minor logistical detail.
However, South Dakota is little known to outsiders and those points are relatively remote. So, here are a few specifics to help plan a ride of the BackBone Grande.

Pavement into a ghost town, county gravel across rolling ranch land, and dirt two track through primitive National Grasslands. It's just you and your bike, out there in the exposed, untamed prairie.
Welcome to the first 46 miles of the BackBone Grande, my new bikepacking route across the State of South Dakota along the spine of the Black Hills. A Great Divide type experience here in my backyard.

Leaving Buffalo Gap National Grasslands at Mile 46, the 400 mile BackBone Grande bikepacking route rolls across hardscrabble ranch land to climb into the Black Hills along ancient wildlife trails. A Great Divide type experience right here in my backyard.
Herds of buffalo still patrol these lands and I see them every time I ride out there. Every time. So, stay attentive, ride smart, and savor a taste of the Old West on a unique mix of roads and near-roads.

From the tourist town of Custer at Mile 114, the 400 mile BackBone Grande route launches into the Heart of the Hills on a short stretch of the renowned Mickelson Trail leading to views of Crazy Horse Memorial.
That's only the beginning. This is a Greatest Hits Album of my favorite roads and sights in the Black Hills. Big and small views, elk and marmots, a restored gold mine and tunnels, sparkling creeks and beaver dams, even an old western saloon and an ice cream shop. All finishing with a challenging, chunky climb to a tranquil campground. Best of the best.

Leaving Cheyenne Crossing at Mile 203, the 400 mile BackBone Grande bikepacking route screams down a few miles of pavement, gently climbs to Roughlock Falls, rolls past USFS campgrounds and popular trailheads, blows into the college/mountain bike town of Spearfish, and spins out to the Belle Fouche National Wildlife Refuge.
But it's not all a downhill pleasure cruise. That wouldn't be the BackBone Grande.

From the Belle Fouche National Wildlife Refuge at Mile 272, the 400 mile BackBone Grande bikepacking route streaks out onto the open prairie, full steam for a final 128 miles to the North Dakota border.
Miss much, you will, with head down glued to a power meter. Geographic Center of the Nation, Battle Creek Wetlands Area, historic stage coach town of Harding, and remote trading post of Buffalo. Then, just before the border, the most unlikeliest of things. A forested, rocky oasis in the midst of millions of acres of grassland.
The BackBone Grande. It's not over, until it's over.

To encourage those bikepacking the BackBone Grande to soak in the Black Hills experience, I created an optional, off-route loop featuring Needles Highway, Iron Mountain Road, and Mount Rushmore. Iconic roads to a cherished National Memorial create a unique experience for a "Zero Day."
Of course, I toss into the mix some short connectors of rolling gravel, rough dirt, and stream-crossing single track. That's what makes it the BackBone Grande.

In January 2023, I introduced the BackBone Grande, my new bikepacking route crossing the State of South Dakota along the spine of our Black Hills.
Over the past 6 months, I've posted more details about the route and received enthusiastic responses from many cyclists. I'll be posting more in the future, including ride reports from me and others.
To readily access current and future posts, I created a Page that lists, describes, and links every blog post about the BackBone Grande. A one-stop spot for information on bikepacking the best of the Black Hills.


B. 2023 BackBone Grande Through-Ride 

Over 9 days, Paul Brasby and I rode the BackBone Grande across the State of South Dakota, self-navigated and self-supported, with resupply as available along the way.
425 miles with 24,880 feet of elevation gain on primarily dirt and gravel roads.
But this ride, and this route, mean far more than numbers. It's a Great Divide vibe right here at home.

A border crossing into a near ghost town, miles of rolling county gravel across big ranch land, barely recognizable two-track through National Grasslands, and a rodeo town with one gas station, one bar, and one food truck. All in the first 48 miles.
From the start of the first through-ride of the BackBone Grande, we launch right into a Great Divide vibe.

A well-known, major challenge of riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route is the occasional, off-the-charts, insanely difficult climb or descent. That's just part of it.
Trail #1 in Custer State Park offers that on the BackBone Grande. If you seek a Great Divide type of experience, or are preparing to ride the Great Divide, Trail #1 may be for you. Otherwise, bypass it.
You've been warned.

A temporary road closure requires a short detour of the BackBone Grande for the remainder of 2023. It should not affect the route in 2024.
SD DOT is paving South Rochford Road, which we follow for 3 miles approaching Rochford. Here's a simple detour and an alternative.

Bikepacking back country roads for days or weeks at a time includes dealing with rain. We certainly are not denied that experience in our ride of the BackBone Grande.
Sometimes, you ride it out. Sometimes, you wait it out.
Sometimes, you may even have a choice.

The BackBone Grande seeks out little known and less traveled roads to create a unique experience for bikepackers, while still following Primary and Secondary Roads for re-supply and access landmarks such as Wind Cave National Park, Custer State Park, Crazy Horse Memorial, Mt. Rushmore, Mickelson Trail, Spearfish Canyon, and Roughlock Falls.
Perhaps nothing shows this mixed road approach better than the journey between the village of Rochford and the college/mountain bike town of Spearfish. Days 5 and 6 of our 2023 BackBone Grande.

At about Mile 250, the BackBone Grande drops out of the Black Hills into the college/mountain bike town of Spearfish. But we're not finished. The state border still lies about 100 miles due north.
Of course, this route is not merely getting from Point A to Point B. For 150 miles, it meanders here and there to unearth prairie gold hidden in plain sight.
Best of the best. All the way across South Dakota.

From the town of Buffalo, the BackBone Grande sits 40 miles from the finish. Just up the route, almost within sight of the North Dakota border, a barely marked Low Standard Road climbs to the top of a forested oasis in the midst of millions of acres of grassland.
It's like the Black Hills are saying farewell, as we close in on the finish of our through-ride.
Border to border, the BackBone Grande delivers the best of the Black Hills and surrounding prairie.

In June 2023, Paul Brasby and I rode the first through-ride of the BackBone Grande, essentially as a final recon to confirm and document the route. Among other things, Paul captured hundreds of amazing images along the way and shared many on daily social media posts. I also featured some on my blog.
Now, I selected five images from each of our nine days on the route and collected them in a Photo Gallery. Scroll through for a glimpse of this journey. And thank you Paul!


C. Rides By Others

The Official BackBone Grande sticker!
Free to those who ride all, or part, of the BackBone Grande. Just send me a note and pictures.
No, it doesn't say "Black Hills," or anything about bikepacking, or even cycling.
If you know, you know.


D. Updates

The Black Hills BackBone Grande. Magnifico!
Last year, I created this 400 mile rough road bikepacking route across the State of South Dakota to showcase the best of our scenery, history, and wildlife. A great ride on its own, and a great shake out ride to prepare for the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route.
It's time for my annual post to the BackBone Grande Page, which describes the route in more detail and includes links to a series of posts with maps, images, ride reports, and stories.
Bikepack the best of the Black Hills.

The Black Hills are beautiful. Most any combination of roads winding through the Black Hills will be a beautiful ride. There is, however, a difference between better and best.
Over the years, I have published three cross-South Dakota bike routes that I called the Black Hills BackBone, the DoubleBackBone, and the BackBone Grande. I created them for different reasons and for different ride experiences. Each cover what I consider to be the very best of our Black Hills and surrounding prairie in a cross-state ride.
Here's how these routes differ, with links to Pages with maps, images, ride reports, and stories.

Every year the January posts describing my Black Hills BackBone, DoubleBackBone, and BackBone Grande routes prompt questions about our roads out here.
So, I've updated one of my most popular posts: an introduction to the back roads of the Black Hills, with U.S. Forest Service definitions of different categories, my observations of what that looks like out here, and now with over 50 illustrative photographs.
If you like this type of riding, the Black Hills offer a lifetime of miles to explore.

A return route for the BackBone Grande on different roads? Not so fast.

The BackBone Grande is a 400 mile bikepacking route across the State of South Dakota, smack through the best of the Black Hills. It took considerable time, effort, and input from others to create.

Let's ride it a bit. A worthy return route will take some time to develop.


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