BackBone DoubleGrande - Work In Progress

I got eight little fingers and only two thumbs

Will you leave me in peace while I get the job done

Can't you see I'm working

Oh, oh, I'm working on it

Oh, oh, I'm working on it

Working On It, Chris Rea (1989)

The BackBone Grande (blue line above) is complete.
The BackBone DoubleGrande (red line above) is deep in beta testing, but will look something like this.

I created my BackBone Grande route specifically for bikepacking the best rough roads across the State of South Dakota along the spine of the Black Hills and across the surrounding prairie. See, Introducing the BackBone Grande. By its very nature, it was a point-to-point route, like its inspiration, the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. See, Yes, Point-to-Point.

Almost immediately after publishing the BackBone Grande in January 2023, however, I began receiving requests for a return route, i.e., to create a loop from the finish at the North Dakota border to the start at the Nebraska border. But I just wanted to ride the route, not in bits and pieces over years, but as a through-ride accumulating miles, challenges, thoughts, and emotions as continuously presented. I needed a single, long through-ride to fully experience the BackBone Grande.

So, in June 2023, I rode the first through-ride of the BackBone Grande with bikepacking buddy Paul Brasby. See, BackBone Grande - The First Through-Ride. I loved it. Afterward, I tweaked a couple of stretches and later added more amazing tracks through Buffalo Gap National Grasslands. See, e.g., The Challenge of Buffalo Gap National Grasslands. Eventually, I created a Page compiling all my BackBone Grande posts to help others intrigued by the possibility of such an experience. BackBone Grande Page.

Everybody loves bikepacking through Devil's Tower National Monument!

With the BackBone Grande completed in every way, I finally started to visualize a return route, what I called the "DoubleBackBone." This return route would not be limited to the State of South Dakota, so I looked westward into a sliver of Montana and chunks of Wyoming. And I decided to amp up the logistical challenges by venturing more remote than the BackBone Grande. This would not be "more of the same," but a markedly different experience not for the uninitiated.

Into the Fall of 2023 and continuing still, I have been researching possible routes by scouring digital and paper maps, reviewing reports and images of prior rides by myself and others, and, most importantly, physically scouting possibilities by Jeep and by Jones. The bikepacking options out here are an outright embarrassment of riches.

Great spot for lunch in the Bear Lodge Mountains of Wyoming.
(image by Kevin Fox)

All that takes time. For example, just to drive highways to the North Dakota border is about 3 hours one-way from Rapid City. The Nebraska border start of the BackBone Grande is a solid 2 hours one-way. Areas further west and more remote take even longer.

But the real time sink is scouting as many roads and near-roads as possible to select and connect the very best for the intended route. In Black Hills National Forest, that may be a never-ending task, with virtually unlimited mapped and unmapped tracks spider-webbing the public lands of the Black Hills. Out in the prairie, with a high percentage of land privately owned, the options of public roads and paths shrink dramatically. But it all still takes time.

Back in the Northern Black Hills of South Dakota.

So, from the Fall of 2023, throughout 2024, and now into 2025, I have continued to piece together a BackBone DoubleGrande route. Sometimes, seemingly all roads that I follow lead to nothing particularly unique or even to dead-ends. Sometimes, scouting for other routes, like the new BackBone Buffet or the next Black Hills Bounty, leads me to roads and trails that I am compelled to include on the DoubleGrande. See, e.g., Red Bird Canyon. 

As shown in the map above, the BackBone DoubleGrande generally will wind from the North Dakota border at the end of the BackBone Grande to Camp Crook, cut across the southeastern corner of Montana, and climb into northeastern Wyoming at Devil's Tower National Monument. It then climbs further into the Bear Lodge Mountains, drops into Sundance, re-enters the Black Hills zig-zagging the Wyoming/South Dakota border, traverses the western reaches of the Black Hills, and descends into grasslands leading to the Nebraska border, connecting to the start of the BackBone Grande.

Red Bird Canyon in the Southern Black Hills.

As of now, the BackBone DoubleGrande totals 446.5 miles/27,373' elevation gain. For reference, the BackBone Grande totals 421.3 miles/23,875' elevation gain. Ride those two routes as one, big, bad loop of 867.8 miles/51,248' elevation gain.

Once completed, that will be one Grande way to experience the greater Black Hills area.

But there's still work to be done. ETA of published route - January 2026.

Working On It, Chris Rea (1989).

Memorial Day 2025

If tomorrow all the things were gone, I'd worked for all my life

And I had to start again, with just my children and my wife

I'd thank my luck stars, to be living here today

Cause the flag still stands for freedom, and they can't take that away.

And I'm proud to be an American, where at least I know I'm free

And I won't forget the men who died, who gave that right to me

And I'd gladly stand up next to you, and defend her still today

Cause there aint no doubt I love this land, God bless the USA

God Bless the USA, Lee Greenwood (1984)

God Bless The U.S.A. (Rock Version)

Lee Greenwood & Drew Jacobs (2024).

Memorial Day is a time to take stock of the present, reflect on the past, and renew our commitment to the future of America.

Today, as in the past, there are problems that must be solved and challenges that must be met. We can tackle them with our full strength and creativity only because we are free to work them out in our own way. We owe this freedom of choice and action to those men and women in uniform who have served this nation and its interests in time of need. In particular, we are forever indebted to those who have given their lives that we might be free.

I don't have to tell you how fragile this precious gift of freedom is. Every time we hear, watch, or read the news, we are reminded that liberty is a rare commodity in this world.

This Memorial Day of 1983, we honor those brave Americans who died in the service of their country. I think an ancient scholar put it well when he wrote:  "Let us now praise famous men . .  All these were honored in their generation, and were the glory of their times. Their bodies are buried in peace; but their name liveth for evermore." As a tribute to their sacrifice, let us renew our resolve to remain strong enough to deter aggression, wise enough to preserve and protect our freedom, and thoughtful enough to promote lasting peace throughout the world.

President Ronald W. Reagan, May 26, 1983.

The Way, The Truth, & The Life

"I stand this morning with a difficult message. I believe we are in a crisis. The distance between what is said and what is known to be true has become an abyss. Of all the things at risk, the loss of an objective reality is perhaps the most dangerous. The death of truth is the ultimate victory of evil. When truth leaves us, when we let it slip away, when it is ripped from our hands, we become vulnerable to the appetite of whatever monster screams the loudest." 

Senator Mon Mothma, Star Wars Andor, Season 2, Episode 9 (2025).

Yes, this is from a speech in a fictional movie. A science fiction movie, at that.

But the message resonates today, following years of "expert" or "consensus" or "authoritative" narratives that plainly have not aligned with what we actually see and hear and experience. Narratives that conflict with what used to be known as common sense.

Amongst all the noise of the world, I believe this to be true.

For God so loved the world, that He gave His one and only Son, that whoever believes in Him shall not perish, but have eternal life. John 3:16.

I am the way, the truth, and the life. No one comes to the Father, except through me. John 14:6.

God bless you.

Black Hills BackBone Grande - Invitation & Offer

The BackBone Grande is a unique 400 mile bikepacking route across the State of South Dakota along the spine of the Black Hills. I designed this route specifically for a Great Divide type of bikepacking experience that showcases the best of our Black Hills and surrounding prairie. For a series of posts introducing this route, including a digital map, and a series of posts of the first through-ride go to Black Hills Grande Page.

If you have any questions, ask. If you're thinking of venturing out here, let me know. I'm happy to help.

Here's an offer. Ride the BackBone Grande, any or all of it, and send me a picture and story. I'll send you a BackBone Grande sticker.

As others have noted, it doesn't say "Black Hills," or anything about bikepacking, or even cycling.

Nope. If you know, you know.

Here's the sticker.

Here's the sticker in the wild.

Even in a crowd, the BackBone Grande sticker stands out.

BackBone Buffet Update v.2 - New Single Track

I won't cry for the past

For I've re-found my freedom at last

I won't shy from the strife

What doesn't kill me will fill me with life. 

Moving On, Rod Argent (2015).

Heading up Hell Canyon in search of another abandoned road connector for the BackBone Buffet.

As much as I love my various BackBone routes, I'm always looking to improve them.

Earlier this month, I announced a change to the BackBone Buffet route that replaced some relatively conventional miles with an abandoned road that connects to a rough Low Standard Road that climbs abruptly to a lookout tower. I consider it a major character add, both for the route and the rider. See, BackBone Buffet - It Gets Better.

Scouting that day led me to explore other roads in that area around Jewell Cave National Monument, which is southwest of Rapid City almost to Wyoming. I seem to find something new and fun every time I get back in those remote canyons and hills, many of which are still recovering from the 2000 Jasper fire that burned over 83,000 acres. See, e.g., Red Bird Canyon.

Original BackBone Buffet section from Hell Canyon Trail (green icon) to Bear Spring Creek.
About 3.5 miles of paved U.S. Highway 16 and 3.5 miles of USFS Low Standard Road 681.

Same route as directly above, but shown in Google Terrain view.

One road I love to ride in that area is USFS Low Standard Road 681, which meanders off U.S. Highway 16 before turning onto USFS Low Standard Road 284.2L to enter a small canyon along Bear Spring Creek. To access those USFS roads, the BackBone Buffet follows U.S. 16 near Hell Canyon Trailhead for about 3.5 paved miles (see map above).

Of course, I wondered if I could find a more fun way to enter that small canyon without riding those 3.5 miles of pavement and then 3.5 miles of USFS developed road. Unfortunately, my maps show no such road, perhaps due to the rugged terrain and limited timber. I don't know. Maybe there's a way. I sure would like to avoid that pavement. 

Time for another road trip.

Possible 4.3 mile single track cut-through from Hell Canyon Trailhead to Bear Spring Creek.

Same route as directly above, but shown in Google Terrain view.

At the Hell Canyon Trailhead, I saw signs noting non-motorized use on the marked trail loop. However, that day featured wind driven rain at 37 degrees, so I chose not to ride or hike up the muddy single track. Save it for another day.

Back home, I found the Hell Canyon Trail from satellite images on RideWithGPS. Almost a mile from the Trailhead, the popular hiking trail angles northwest while a small canyon opens eastward. It looks like some kind of trail may wind along the bottom of that easterly canyon. The apparent trail appears and disappears on the satellite images, likely due to vegetation cover, but looks that it may eventually connect with USFS 681 after about 3.5 more miles. Maybe.

USFS hard copy maps show hints of an abandoned road from USFS 681 into that canyon, but do not clearly show it connecting through to Hell Canyon Trail. But it sure looks possible.

So, I created a RideWithGPS map for that trail/abandoned road to show what it would look like, if a trail indeed flows along the bottom of that canyon (see map above). If passable and rideable, it would link U.S. 16 at the Hell Canyon Trailhead to USFS 681 via 4.3 miles/529' gain of single track/abandoned road. It would also eliminate 7.5 miles/1,100' gain of pavement/more developed road.

This trail may be hard to follow when the ground cover turns green.

As soon as the final spring snows had a reasonable chance of clearing, I hustled back to Hell Canyon Trailhead. Several hikers there enthusiastically described the popular loop trail that climbs up and out of Hell Canyon, but none knew anything about a little trail snaking east into a side canyon.

Now thoroughly intrigued, I started up the main trail as one would hike the popular loop counter-clockwise. Less than a mile later, I spot a break in the surrounding hills and the looks of a small canyon to the east. A hint of single track veers off toward the unknown, right past bold signs emphatically directing one to continue northwest on the main trail. This must be it.

One of the final rock walls on the north side, as the south side mellows.

Yes. This is it. After a short stretch through a meadow, the trail winds atop the surface of what appears to be a long since abandoned "road" of some sort. The old road bed is discernible, here and there, but mostly has weathered back into the hillside. Birch trees of all sizes fill the gaps. Only the makings of a rarely traveled trail remain. 

The trail climbs gradually and steadily, as the canyon walls close in. Tree downfall occasionally blocks the way, but I find hiked-in work arounds, sometimes chainsawed cut-throughs, and other times neither. None are difficult to overcome.

The trail twists and turns with the floor of the canyon, crossing dry drainages that must have carried significant water at some time. Around every corner, an ever changing kaleidoscope of rock walls burst from the earth and reach for the sky. My spirit lifts, with each passing moment.

I've found yet another hidden jewel in the treasure trove of the Black Hills.

USFS Low Standard Road 284.2L, at the end of the unmarked, unnumbered little trail.
More small canyons lie ahead along Bear Spring Creek.

About 3.5 miles from the main trail and 4.5 miles from the Trailhead, the little sketch trail runs smack into the intersection of USFS Low Standard Road 681 and USFS Low Standard Road 284.2L That's on the original BackBone Buffet route, right where I hoped to reconnect to enter the next small canyon. See, BackBone Buffet - RideWithGPS Map.

Single track connector complete.

Once again, the Black Hills deliver.

And the BackBone Buffet moves a bit more remote.

Moving On, The Zombies (2015).

Happy Easter 2025

After the Sabbath, at dawn on the first day of the week, Mary Magdalene and the other Mary went to look at the tomb.

There was a violent earthquake, for an angel of the Lord came down from heaven and, going to the tomb, rolled back the stone and sat on it. His appearance was like lightning, and his clothes were white as snow. The guards were so afraid of him that they shook and became like dead men.

The angel said to the women, "Do not be afraid, for I know that you are looking for Jesus, who was crucified. He is not here. He is risen, just as he said. Come and see the place where he lay. Then go quickly and tell his disciples. He is risen from the dead and is going ahead of you into Galilee. There you will see him. Now I have told you."

So the women hurried away from the tomb, afraid yet filled with joy, and ran to tell the disciples. Suddenly Jesus met them. "Greetings," he said. They came to him, clasped his feet and worshipped him. Then Jesus said to them, "Do not be afraid. Go and tell my brothers to go to Galilee; there they will see me."

Matthew 28:1-10. 

BackBone Buffet Update - It Gets Better

I'm going up the rough side of the mountain on my way home, meet my people (Trying to get home)

I'm going up the rough side of the mountain on my way home, oh yeah (Trying to get home)

I'm going (Climbing)

Up the rough side of the mountain (Climbing)

Oh, Jesus (Climbing)

On my way (Climbing)

Climbing Higher Mountains, Traditional.

Contrary to the sign, USFS 818.1A is not a "DEAD END" for those on a bicycle.

Last month I introduced the BackBone Buffet, my new rough road bikepacking route showcasing the best of the Central Black Hills of South Dakota. I've ridden all the roads on the route, although not in one ride put together this way. I look forward to bikepacking it this summer. See, Introducing The BackBone Buffet.

Starting the climb up to Elk Mountain Lookout Tower on USFS Low Standard Road 818.1A.

The BackBone Buffet started with the idea of creating an easily accessible 4-5 day rough road bikepacking loop smack in the middle of the Black Hills. With all my riding, scouting, and routing throughout that area over the years, I decided not to start from scratch, but rather cherry-pick favorite sections of my original BackBone, DoubleBackBone, BackBone Grande, BackBone DoubleGrande (not yet released) and even some Black Hills Bounty roads and combine them in a single 200 mile loop out of Hill City.

Those existing routes occasionally intersect, e.g., the original BackBone and the BackBone Grande meet on Black Fox Camp Road, but connecting the chosen sections often required some distance of different roads. Eventually, I fashioned together and published the loop. BackBone Buffet - RideWithGPS Map.

Looking back on the climb up USFS Low Standard Road 818.1A.

Analyzing those new connectors more closely over time and coffee, I unearthed a couple of areas to improve. For example, I did not particularly like the connection from the bottom of Red Bird Canyon (about Mile 103) to Dewey Road (USFS Primary Road 769) (about Mile 108) and beyond. That stretch required over 5 miles on paved U.S. Highway 16, followed by more miles on highly developed Dewey Road before finally reaching some primo Bounty roads to McKenna Spring. There must be a better way.

So, from USFS paper maps and RideWithGPS satellite images, I pieced together a possible re-route that turned off U.S. Highway 16 a couple of miles short of Dewey Road onto an unnumbered, double-dashed, apparently abandoned "Road Closed Yearlong To Motorized Traffic." After about a mile, that "road" t-boned into USFS Low Standard Road 818.1A for a suck-it-up steep pitch to a fire lookout tower and then a gradual descent over to Dewey Road. What's not to love about that! 

It looked to be an awesome add to the BackBone Buffet, and possibly to the BackBone DoubleGrande, if that first mile of abandoned "road" is public. However, I could not determine that from home, since it was not clearly labeled and passed through private land. Time for a road trip.

Elk Mountain Lookout Tower, with 360 degree views from the top.

Score! That little unnumbered, double-dashed "road" is a public road that actually does connect with USFS Low Standard Road 818.1A. It is closed to motorized vehicles yearlong, but is always open for travel by foot, horse, and bicycle. Sweet!

Know that it's not easy. From the paved highway, the route climbs over 700 feet in the first 2 miles and another 400 feet in the next 2.5 miles, with at least one pitch of 19% (according to RideWithGPS). But the 360 degree views from atop the lookout tower are breathtaking, as are the sharp elevation drop views along the relatively long, gradual descent.

Uffda! 

Absolutely I added it to both the BackBone Buffet and the BackBone DoubleGrande.

So, for anyone riding any of my routes, check the RideWithGPS file for the latest update. 

I'm always looking for the best.

Updated BackBone Buffet map on RideWithGPS, showing the climb up Elk Mountain Lookout Tower.
The new section leaves U.S. 16 to climb to the tower and then descend to Dewey Road.

Same map as above, but in "Google Terrain" mode to show relief. Would you look at that!

Climbing Higher Mountains, Aretha Franklin (1972).