2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 4) - Mt. Rushmore Plus

If tomorrow all the things were gone, I'd worked for all my life

And I had to start again, with just my children and my wife

I'd thank my luck stars, to be living here today

Cause the flag still stands for freedom, and they can't take that away.

And I'm proud to be an American, where at least I know I'm free

And I won't forget the men who died, who gave that right to me

And I'd gladly stand up next to you, and defend her still today

Cause there aint no doubt I love this land, God bless the USA

God Bless the USA, Lee Greenwood (1984)

Classic photo op at Mount Rushmore.

Day 4 of the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.

From Custer, the BackBone Grande ventures north and west to eventually ascend to big views atop Coad Hill and plummet down twist-and-shout Reno Gulch Road. It then hops on the relaxing Mickelson Trail through Hill City, before meandering further north and west on some of my favorite USFS Low Standard Roads, including Castle Peak Road, Black Fox Camp Road, and beyond. It's a ride.

When creating the BackBone Grande, I added an optional, off-route loop day ride from Custer and a second off-route loop from Hill City. Both of these loops offer a significant break from backcountry, rough road bikepacking and lead the touring cyclist along a popular destination ride to Sylvan Lake, Needles Highway, Iron Mountain Road (Pigtail Highway), and Mount Rushmore. Cycling enthusiasts travel from all over the world to ride these roads. See, Off-Route Mt. Rushmore Loops.

Climbing Needles Highway in Custer State Park.
(image by Paul Brasby)

The Bounty crew loves that Mt. Rushmore ride, having ridden different versions of it in 2021 and 2022. This year, however, they lacked an additional day to ride one of those off-route loops. Instead, they decided to ride to Mt. Rushmore via a combination of the Custer loop and the Hill City loop. 

More specifically, they rode from Custer to Mt. Rushmore via the first part of the Custer loop and then from Mt. Rushmore to Hill City via the ending part of the Hill City loop. Of course, that meant missing the main route of the BackBone Grande from Hill City to Custer. But it hit all the Mt. Rushmore loop highlights over 37 miles of winding pavement, 5 miles of USFS Low Standard Roads, and 2 miles of single track.

A tourist day of conventional Black Hills highlights.

A stop along Needles Highway reveals the Cathedral Spires, a popular hiking and climbing destination.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Soaking in the sun & scenery along Needles Highway.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Camp Remington Road, a short cut to Iron Mountain Road.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Iron Creek Trail crosses Iron Creek more than a few times.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Five boards pass for a bridge on Iron Creek Trail.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Always smiling, even when not pedaling.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Climbing up Iron Mountain Road, through a few tunnels and pig tail bridges.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Tunnels on Iron Mountain Road frame Mt. Rushmore in the distance.
(image by Luke Derstein)

Even the forest frames Mt. Rushmore from Iron Mountain Road.
(image by Luke Derstein)

Relaxing over lunch under the inspirational Mt. Rushmore.
(image by unknown volunteer)

Taking the long way home to Hill City on USFS Low Standard Road 356. 

This was our final day on lightly loaded bikes. In the morning, we load everything on the bikes for a final 3 day, fully loaded bikepacking ride to Spearfish on the BackBone Grande.

God Bless The U.S.A. (Rock Version), Lee Greenwood & Drew Jacobs (2024)

God Bless The U.S.A., featuring Lee Greenwood,

Home Free, & The Singing Sergeants (2021).

Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog posts for every post for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.

2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 3) - Take It Easy

Take it easy, take it easy

Don't let the sound of your own wheels drive you crazy

Lighten up while you still can

Don't even try to understand

Just find a place to make your stand and take it easy.

Take It Easy, Jackson Browne & Glenn Frye (1972).

Cruising up the Mickelson Trail out of Custer.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Day 3 of the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.

We roust awake in Custer for our traditional breakfast at Baker's Bakery. Yes, it is a bakery and, yes, it is owned by a family with the last name of Baker. And we love everything about it!

We're a full day ahead of our plans to ride the BackBone Grande to Spearfish, due to bypassing a second day of immersion in the heat sink called Buffalo Gap National Grasslands. But even with yesterday's surprisingly solid ride, we know that we're still recovering from that withering first day. So, we opt for a super easy Day 3 and will get back to the original plan after that.

Mickelson Trail.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Mickelson Trail.
(image by Jeff Caldwell)

So, after a hearty breakfast and a pocketful of pastries to go, we spin up the rails-to-trails Mickelson Trail about 7 miles to Crazy Horse Memorial, tool around there for a bit, and coast back to Custer. That's it.

We took it very easy, lightly spinning past a steady stream of granite formations along meadows and streams. The out-of-staters always enjoy some time on the Mickelson Trail and this relaxing stretch passed quickly. 

Then they wandered around Crazy Horse a bit, before flying back down to Custer.

Crazy Horse Memorial.

Crazy Horse Memorial.
(image by Paul Brasby)

That should do it. Everyone was in high spirits and much more comfortable, on and off the bike.

We'll get back on track for Day 4, which looks to climb a circuitous, challenging route leading to Mt. Rushmore for lunch and ultimately Hill City for the evening.

That hopeful tomorrow is made possible by this Take It Easy Day 3.

Take It Easy, Eagles (1972).

Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog posts for every post for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.

2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 2) - Recovery

When your day is long

And the night, the night is yours alone

When you're sure you've had enough

Of this life, well hang on.

Don't let yourself go,

'Cause everybody cries

And everybody hurts sometimes.

Everybody Hurts, Bill Berry, Peter Buck, Mike Mills & Michael Stipe (1992).

Climbing along an ancient migratory path through Buffalo Gap.

Day 2 of the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.

 

Our original plan to ride the BackBone Grande route meant a return shuttle to Limestone Butte Reservoir for 30 more miles of dirt two-track through more of Buffalo Gap National Grasslands and then 20 miles of rolling county gravel to the town of Buffalo Gap. However, the forecast threatened another 95 degree scorcher. After yesterday's heat induced sufferfest through the Grasslands, the crew unceremoniously booted that prospect right out the front door.

So, we passed on the planned Day 2, did not collect $200, and went directly to Day 3, which was to leave the town of Buffalo Gap and climb 4,000 feet over 40 miles of gravel/dirt roads to Custer. That would be a pretty reasonable day for this crew under normal circumstances, which, of course, these are not. 

But we'll turn pedals, and see what the day brings.

Climbing into the Black Hills on NPS 5 in Wind Cave National Park.
(image by Paul Brasby)

The final pitch on NPS 5 in Wind Cave National Park.

King of the Mountain Jeff Caldwell.

Exuberant fans cheer Paul Brasby with cowbells and flags as he crests the final pitch on NPS 5.

Remarkably, all four riders started from Buffalo Gap on the morning of Day 2. From prone in the prairie to pedaling up into the Black Hills 16 hours later. The human body's capacity to recover is amazing.

In addition to rider experience and judgment, the KOA Campground was key. Showers, cold drinks, cool evening, shaded campsites, and even pizzas worked wonders. That necessary audible may have saved the entire trip.

Early morning, we spun out of Buffalo Gap on 7-11 Road up toward Wind Cave National Park. There we discovered that our planned route up NPS 6 to drop into Custer State Park wasn't happening. Not due to any rider issue, but because that rough road was closed for rebuilding. So, we climbed into the Black Hills on NPS 5, one of my favorite gravel roads anywhere, and re-grouped atop Highland Ridge.

After rolling along Highland Ridge a few miles, we dropped down to the Highland Creek Trailhead for the Centennial Trail, a 111 mile single track trail running most of the North-South length of the Black Hills. By that point, we had ridden 15 miles, gained over 1,000 feet of elevation on gravel roads, and temperatures were rising. We also needed to find a way to work back toward the BackBone Grande route. Time to assess our options for the day.

No, this is not Jurassic Park. It's our entrance to Custer State Park on the Centennial Trail.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Primitive single track for 9 miles to French Creek Horse Camp.
(image by Paul Brasby)

The most remote and demanding option to get back on the BackBone Grande, but perhaps the most rewarding, lay directly ahead on that 9 miles of lonely Centennial Trail single track. I've ridden that stretch several times, although it's been a few years. Given that the Centennial Trail in Custer State Park endures regular horse traffic, but receives practically no maintenance, ever, the condition of the trail was a complete wild card.

Without hesitation, the crew leapt at the opportunity to find out. As they gleefully spun off, I drove to French Creek Horse Camp and rode back up on the Centennial Trail to learn the outcome of that decision.

Getting back on the Centennial Trail en route to French Creek Horse Camp.
(image by Luke Derstein)

Centennial Trail en route to French Creek Horse Camp.
(image by Luke Derstein)

I heard their hoops and hollers first, then watched them gleefully bounce down the final, rock-strewn stretch of Centennial Trail into French Creek Horse Camp. That 9 miles of primitive single track was no match for this crew, notwithstanding their rough day yesterday. Big smiles, and some relief, shone on their faces as they finally landed on solid gravel.

We rolled through French Creek Horse Camp to re-group at the waiting shuttle. We all recognized that today so far was a pretty solid recovery day. Perhaps equally important, our energy and enthusiasm had bubbled back to the surface. So, we ended the riding day on a high and shuttled the remaining few miles to Custer.

Here they come!

Dropping down a final mile into French Creek Horse Camp.

Locals enjoying Happy Hour near French Creek Horse Camp.
(image by Paul Brasby)

We camped in town at French Creek RV Camp, just a block off Main Street in Custer. Ahead awaited showers, dinner at a restaurant, and a relaxing evening around a campfire. 

Just what the doctor ordered.

Everybody Hurts, REM (1992).

Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog posts for every post for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.

2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 1) - Baked In The Grasslands

Boy, you sure took me for a ride,

And even now I sit and wonder why.

Feelin' alright?

I'm not feeling too good myself.

Feelin' alright?

I'm not feeling that good myself.

Feelin' Alright? Dave Mason (1968).

Seemingly endless ocean of grass in Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Day 1 of the 2025 Black Hills Bounty. 

We plan a solid first day ride from High Plains Homestead RV Park to Limestone Butte Reservoir, which lies deep into a challenging expanse of Buffalo Gap National Grasslands. On this mid-September day, the forecast calls for mild winds and no rain, but temperatures well into the 90's. Uffda.

Just to reach the Grasslands, the route rolls across 55 miles of ranch land that is seriously exposed to the elements. County gravel roads down there ride pretty fast with long sight lines, but are utterly without cover. Do not underestimate those miles.

Then 12 miles of dirt two-track in the Grasslands add a much rougher surface, heightened attentiveness to navigation, significantly slower speed, and zero shade. See, The Challenge Of Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.

Ye doth not trifle thuruh these lands. Certainly not this day.

Ready to roll from High Plains Homestead.
Craig Groseth, Paul Brasby, Luke Derstein, Jeff Caldwell, D.B. Cooper

At the onset, we adjusted our logistics for the trip. With a point-to-point, weeklong trip planned for a dozen or more riders, we tackled a series of logistical issues over the summer and into the fall, such as water, re-supply, lodging, and transportation for that many riders. Then rider cancellations chiseled our numbers down. One here, two there. With a final rush at the end, our suddenly much smaller numbers mandated changes.

The result? The four out-of-state riders would ride the route as planned, although unloaded at the beginning. I would drive a shuttle truck to the night's campsite and ride what I could. After all, I rode the entire BackBone Grande as a through-ride in 2023 and have ridden most of those miles several times on shorter trips over the years. And I'm just out playing in my backyard. This trip was their vacation.

As it turned out, it was a good thing to have a shuttle. And that we started with unloaded bikes.

Starting the day on good gravel through an unforgiving landscape.

Off to a flying start.

Yield to on-coming traffic.
(image by Paul Brasby)

So, we all left High Plains Homestead on a glorious mid-September morning. After a brief stop at the South Dakota border for water and pictures, I drove ahead to Limestone Butte Reservoir to claim a dispersed campsite. Then, I rode my unloaded bike back to the entry into the Grasslands, grabbed a sliver of shade cast from a small tree, and plopped down to wait for the crew.

Eventually, much later than expected, they dragged in, strung out along the now-overcooked prairie. That first 55 miles of fast, solid county gravel had become an oven. They were cooked.

At the South Dakota border just south of the near-ghost town of Ardmore.
Still 32 miles of county gravel just to get to the two track in Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.

I'll spare the gory details. One was done, reduced to sprawling in the shaded ditch unable to keep anything down. Finally upright almost three hours later, he somehow managed to soft-pedal 4 miles of paved highway to the nearest air-conditioned C-store. But that was it.

The other three decided to plunge into the Grasslands for the remaining 12 miles to the Reservoir. But they underestimated the toll extracted by the oppressive heat and rough roads. Speed plummeted and water vanished, while the winding two track stretched beyond the horizon. There seemed to be no end to the ocean of grass smothered in heat. Desperately dismounted for yet another break atop yet another hill, they finally spotted the shuttle truck in the distance. One bee-lined down to it and drove back up the route to retrieve his compatriots.

It was that kind of day. 

Sharing the road on BLM Road 7026.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Seemingly endless ocean of grass in Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Eventually, we all re-assembled at that C-store. With everyone over-cooked, and two in need of immediate cooling, we simply could not disperse camp at the treeless, still smoldering Reservoir. Instead, we drove to a nearby KOA campground with a swimming pool, showers, cold drinks, pizza, and shade.

We survived the day. And learned a hard lesson on respecting the brutality of heat in the open prairie.

This is no country for young men.

Feelin' Alright? Joe Cocker (1968).

Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog posts for every post for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.

2024 Black Hills Bounty (Day 0) - Back On A Grande Scale

It used to seem to me, that my life ran on too fast,

And I had to take it slowly, just to make the good parts last.

But when you're born to run, it's so hard to just slow down,

So don't be surprised to see me back in the bright part of town.

I'll be back in the high life again,

All the doors I closed one time,

Will open up again. 

Back In The High Life, Steve Winwood & Will Jennings (1985).

Stunning sunset from High Plains Homestead.
(image by Paul Brasby)

The Black Hills Bounty is an annual weeklong bikepacking trip in the Black Hills of South Dakota that I create for cycling buddy Paul Brasby of North Platte, Nebraska and a growing assortment of his friends from Nebraska, Kansas, Missouri, and Colorado. We started with a tour of the Central Black Hills (2021), then the Southern Black Hills (2022), and then the Northern Black Hills and Bear Lodge Mountains (2023). 

Now in the fourth year, Paul decided to take on a chunk of the BackBone Grande route, which crosses the entire state of South Dakota on remote, rough roads smack through the best of the Black Hills and surrounding prairie. See, BackBone Grande Page. We're going back in the high life, again.

Jeff Caldwell and Luke Derstein soak in the pre-ride vibe at High Plains Homestead.

Gathering his forces at the High Plains Homestead RV Camp just south of Toadstool Geological Park in northwestern Nebraska, Paul sought to ride gravel a bit north to the South Dakota border and then follow the BackBone Grande route all the way to Spearfish, with a couple of wrinkles. Over many conversations throughout a long winter, we mapped out a pretty straight-forward schedule, certainly one that these seasoned cyclists could handle.

All told, we planned 7 riding days, including a day to swing down Needles Highway, up and down Iron Mountain Road, and into Mount Rushmore National Monument, with overnights along the way in a variety of cabins, campgrounds, and dispersed sites. A gourmet smorgasbord for any bikepacker.

Pre-ride dinner inside the High Plains Homestead Saloon.
(image by Jeff Caldwell)

From an initial group of thirteen enthusiastic bikepackers, five ultimately arrived at High Plains Homestead on the eve of the ride. The relatively small number did not diminish our chattered anticipation or bursting exuberance as we packed gear, prepared bikes, reviewed maps, shared a meal in a saloon built in the Old West, and joyfully relaxed in a swimming pool overlooking a brilliant sunset. 

A start worthy of the ride ahead. And one to remember.

Old West town features buildings built in the 1800's.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Secure housing at the High Plains Homestead Jail.

Addendum. Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which includes a description and link to every post for every year of this ride. Black Hills Bounty Page.

Back In The High Life, Steve Winwood (1985).

On The Back Roads Again - Red Bird Canyon

On the road again

Goin' places that I've never been

Seein' things that I may never see again

I can't wait to get on the road again.

On the Road Again, Willie Nelson (1980).

Can't wait to see what's around that corner on USFS Low Standard Road 376.

I love to scout back roads and near-roads. I'd be out there at very opportunity, no matter where I lived.

But I'm fortunate to live in Rapid City, South Dakota, the very gateway into Black Hills National Forest. The number and variety of public gravel and dirt roads here is staggering. I regularly set out to explore them, by Jones and by Jeep, and still find new-to-me gems. I love it.

Earlier this week, I scouted an area for my developing BackBone DoubleGrande bikepacking route and for a possible 2025 Black Hills Bounty ride. This area, north and west of Jewel Cave National Monument, still shows scars from the 2000 Jasper fire that burned more than 83,000 acres of forest. The spider web of roads and two tracks resulting from that fire fighting, and the on-going ranching and logging, create virtually limitless possibilities for riding. Every time I go back there, I find something new and amazing.

This time, I ran into dead-ends, where the maps showed that the road went through to connect with another road. I also encountered roads that went through, where the maps showed dead-ends. It was a challenging day to make some sense of it all and to sort through possible routes.

Then, late afternoon, after hours of annoyance with inaccurate maps and unmarked roads, I stumbled into Red Bird Canyon. Stunning. Simply stunning.

One way or another, this canyon will be part of the BackBone DoubleGrande and the possible 2025 Black Hills Bounty. And this is yet another reminder to keep at it. Eventually, it's all worthwhile.

Pictures fail to express the beauty of this 13 mile stretch of gold. But I felt compelled to share some here.

I can't wait to get back out there.

Climbing up to the ridge line above Spring Canyon on USFS Low Standard Road 280.

USFS Low Standard Road 376.3B tries to connect with Red Bird Canyon Road (376).

Entering Red Bird Canyon from the south on USFS Secondary Road 376.

A little further along northbound on USFS Secondary Road 376.

Canyon walls closing in on USFS Secondary Road 376.

Road roughens on what is now USFS Low Standard Road 376.

USFS Low Standard Road 376.

USFS Low Standard Road 376.

USFS Low Standard Road 376.

USFS Low Standard Road 376.

USFS Low Standard Road 376.

USFS Low Standard Road 376.

USFS Low Standard Road 376.

USFS Low Standard Road 376.

On The Road Again, Willie Nelson (1980).