When your day is long
And the night, the night is yours alone
When you're sure you've had enough
Of this life, well hang on.
Don't let yourself go,
'Cause everybody cries
And everybody hurts sometimes.
Everybody Hurts, Bill Berry, Peter Buck, Mike Mills & Michael Stipe (1992).
Day 2 of the 2024 Black Hills Bounty.
Our original plan to ride the BackBone Grande route meant a return shuttle to Limestone Butte Reservoir for 30 more miles of dirt two-track through more of Buffalo Gap National Grasslands and then 20 miles of rolling county gravel to the town of Buffalo Gap. However, the forecast threatened another 95 degree scorcher. After yesterday's heat induced sufferfest through the Grasslands, the crew unceremoniously booted that prospect right out the front door.
So, we passed on the planned Day 2, did not collect $200, and went directly to Day 3, which was to leave the town of Buffalo Gap and climb 4,000 feet over 40 miles of gravel/dirt roads to Custer. That would be a pretty reasonable day for this crew under normal circumstances, which, of course, these are not.
But we'll turn pedals, and see what the day brings.
Exuberant fans cheer Paul Brasby with cowbells and flags as he crests the final pitch on NPS 5. |
Remarkably, all four riders started from Buffalo Gap on the morning of Day 2. From prone in the prairie to pedaling up into the Black Hills 16 hours later. The human body's capacity to recover is amazing.
In addition to rider experience and judgment, the KOA Campground was key. Showers, cold drinks, cool evening, shaded campsites, and even pizzas worked wonders. That necessary audible may have saved the entire trip.
Early morning, we spun out of Buffalo Gap on 7-11 Road up toward Wind Cave National Park. There we discovered that our planned route up NPS 6 to drop into Custer State Park wasn't happening. Not due to any rider issue, but because that rough road was closed for rebuilding. So, we climbed into the Black Hills on NPS 5, one of my favorite gravel roads anywhere, and re-grouped atop Highland Ridge.
After rolling along Highland Ridge a few miles, we dropped down to the Highland Creek Trailhead for the Centennial Trail, a 111 mile single track trail running most of the North-South length of the Black Hills. By that point, we had ridden 15 miles, gained over 1,000 feet of elevation on gravel roads, and temperatures were rising. We also needed to find a way to work back toward the BackBone Grande route. Time to assess our options for the day.
No, this is not Jurassic Park. It's our entrance to Custer State Park on the Centennial Trail. (image by Paul Brasby) |
Primitive single track for 9 miles to French Creek Horse Camp. (image by Paul Brasby) |
The most remote and demanding option to get back on the BackBone Grande, but perhaps the most rewarding, lay directly ahead on that 9 miles of lonely Centennial Trail single track. I've ridden that stretch several times, although it's been a few years. Given that the Centennial Trail in Custer State Park endures regular horse traffic, but receives practically no maintenance, ever, the condition of the trail was a complete wild card.
Without hesitation, the crew leapt at the opportunity to find out. As they gleefully spun off, I drove to French Creek Horse Camp and rode back up on the Centennial Trail to learn the outcome of that decision.
I heard their hoops and hollers first, then watched them gleefully bounce down the final, rock-strewn stretch of Centennial Trail into French Creek Horse Camp. That 9 miles of primitive single track was no match for this crew, notwithstanding their rough day yesterday. Big smiles, and some relief, shone on their faces as they finally landed on solid gravel.
We rolled through French Creek Horse Camp to re-group at the waiting shuttle. We all recognized that today so far was a pretty solid recovery day. Perhaps equally important, our energy and enthusiasm had bubbled back to the surface. So, we ended the riding day on a high and shuttled the remaining few miles to Custer.
Here they come! |
Locals enjoying Happy Hour near French Creek Horse Camp. (image by Paul Brasby) |
We camped in town at French Creek RV Camp, just a block off Main Street in Custer. Ahead awaited showers, dinner at a restaurant, and a relaxing evening around a campfire.
Just what the doctor ordered.
Everybody Hurts, REM (1992).
Here's a link to the Black Hills Bounty Page, which describes and links all blog posts for every post for every year of this ride (2021-present). Black Hills Bounty Page.