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Thursday, June 19, 2025

BackBone Grande Visual Tour (2) - Buffalo Gap to Custer (miles 95-135)

Welcome to the jungle
We take it day by day
If you want it, you're gonna bleed
But it's the price you pay.
Welcome To The Jungle, Axl Rose, Slash, Izzy Stradlin, Duff McKagan, Steven Adler (1987).

Up into the Black Hills.
(image by Paul Brasby)

The BackBone Grande is my 420+ mile backroad bikepacking route across the State of South Dakota along the spine of the Black Hills and through the surrounding prairie. Inspired by my experience riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, I designed it to create that type of experience here in my back yard. Tracking rough roads that showcase the best of our scenery, history, culture, and wildlife, the BackBone Grande is a great ride on its own and as a shakedown for the GDMBR.  For a collection of my stories all about it, go the BackBone Grande Page.

For those more visual learners, I've selected images along the route from various scouting trips, the first through-ride, and other rides. Here is my second installment of the BackBone Grande Visual Tour, from the town of Buffalo Gap to the town of Custer (miles 95-135). For the first post of this series, go to Nebraska Border to Buffalo Gap (miles 0-95).


Although but 40 miles, this stretch of the BackBone Grande is stuffed with striking visuals, as the route meanders on ancient migratory paths out of vast grasslands to wintering grounds nestled in the protective terrain and vegetation of the Black Hills. 

Gradually climbing through Buffalo Gap, the route enters Wind Cave National Park and then Custer State Park, where herds of buffalo roam free, along with deer, antelope, wild burro, and constantly chattering prairie dogs. The forest thickens, but does not fully develop until after topping infamous Trail #1, the signature rocky, loose, steep, brutal climb of the BackBone Grande.

Awaiting ahead lies the splendor of French Creek Horse Camp, a delightful creekside single track connector, a ridge line spin overseeing the Cathedral Spires, and a final drop into the town of Custer.

Welcome to the Black Hills of South Dakota.


Here's a photo gallery of the BackBone Grande route from the town of Buffalo Gap to the town of Custer (miles 95-135). Here are links to prior posts about this section. Introducing the BackBone Grande - Open Range BuffaloThe First Through-Ride - Trail #1The First Through-Ride - Rain

Also, here is a link to the prior Visual Tour post Nebraska Border to Buffalo Gap (miles 0-95).


Rolling out of Buffalo Gap into Buffalo Gap on 7-11 Road.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Further west on 7-11 Road.

Looking back on 7-11 Road into Buffalo Gap.

Cruising north on Fall River County Road 5 toward Wind Cave National Park.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Solid gravel road NPS 5 entering Wind Cave National Park.

Buffalo wallowing pits right off NPS 5 in Wind Cave National Park.

Riding north on NPS 6 toward Boland Ridge. Still in Wind Cave National Park.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Riding north on NPS 6 in Wind Cave National Park.

Last little pitch up Boland Ridge on NPS 6 in Wind Cave National Park.

Dropping off Boland Ridge into Custer State Park.

Buffalo cows with calves in Custer State Park.

After a water stop at the Wildlife Station Visitor Center, up into the Hills on CSP 3.
(image by Kevin Fox)

Finally, occasional shade while climbing Lame Johnny Road (CSP 4) in Custer State Park.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Buffalo bath house at the intersection of Nature Trail Road and Fisherman Flats Road (CSP 2).

Some climbing on Fisherman Flats Road (CSP 2) just to get to Trail #1.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Start of Trail #1 looks innocent enough. It's even rideable here.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Still riding Trail #1, although not much longer.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Trail #1 gets real.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Trail #1. We're going ballistic!
(image by Paul Brasby)

You know it's steep, loose, rocky, and rough for Paul Brasby to be pushing.

One more push on Trail #1.
(image by Paul Brasby)

But wait. There's more.
(image by Paul Brasby)

No break on the down side.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Popping off of Trail #1 en route to French Creek Horse Camp.

Idyllic French Creek Horse Camp.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Share The Campground. French Creek Horse Camp.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Unnamed, unnumbered single track connector along French Creek.

Same unnamed, unnumbered single track connector along French Creek.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Exiting the single track in Custer State Park.

Spinning up USFS Low Standard Road 341.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Nice ridgeline spin on USFS Low Standard Road 341. Custer lies over the ridge.

Looking north on the ridgeline from USFS Low Standard Road 341.



Welcome To The Jungle, Guns & Roses (1987).




Thursday, June 12, 2025

BackBone Grande Visual Tour (1) - Nebraska Border to Buffalo Gap (miles 0-95)

It's a new dawn
It's a new day
It's a new life
For me
And I'm feeling good.
Anthony Newley & Leslie Brucesse (1964).

Riding north on BLM Road 7026.
(image by Paul Brasby)

The BackBone Grande is my 420+ mile backroad bikepacking route across the State of South Dakota along the spine of the Black Hills and through the surrounding prairie. Inspired by my experience riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, I designed it to create that type of experience here in my back yard. Tracking rough roads that showcase the best of our scenery, history, culture, and wildlife, the BackBone Grande is a great ride on its own and as a shakedown for the GDMBR.  For a collection of my stories all about it, go the BackBone Grande Page.

For those more visual learners, I've selected images along the route from various scouting trips, the first through-ride, and other rides. Here is my first installment of the BackBone Grande Visual Tour, from the Nebraska border start to the town of Buffalo Gap (miles 0-95).


In the first 35 miles, the BackBone Grande pokes into the dust bin of a near ghost town and flies on county gravel roads into wide open, grass-covered rolling ranch land dotted with cattle, pronghorn, deer, and elk.

It then dives deeply into Buffalo Gap National Grassland on barely built and practically unmarked dirt two track. Over the next 45 miles, waves of grass cascade to the horizon in all directions as the "roads" wind through the exposed vastness of the open prairie. It's like nothing else on this or any other route around.

You feel like you're really out there. Because you are.

And you're feeling good.

Here's a photo gallery of the BackBone Grande route from the Nebraska border to the town of Buffalo Gap (miles 0-95). Also, here are links to prior blog posts about this section. Introducing the BackBone Grande - Buffalo Gap National GrasslandThe First Through-Ride - Right Vibe Right AwayMore Grassland!Even More Grassland!The Challenge of Buffalo Gap National Grassland.

State Highway 71 at the South Dakota/Nebraska border.

Less than 2 miles from the start lies the Ardmore Volunteer Fire Department rest area.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Riding east on County Road 5 out of the near ghost town of Ardmore.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Looking east on County Road 5 rolling through southern Fall River County.
If it's green out there, it's Spring.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Relatively small pockets of Buffalo Gap National Grassland dot the prairie along County Road 5.

Entering Buffalo Gap National Grassland on BLM Road 7026 from Wilcox Road.

Riding east on BLM Road 7026 in Buffalo Gap National Grassland. Spring 2023.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Opening (and then closing) another cattle gate on BLM Road 7026.

BLM Road 7026 is actually visible in fall after a summer of heat and cattle grazing.

Still riding east on BLM Road 7026, but about to turn due north. Don't miss it.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Pushing north on BLM Road 7026. No, this prairie is not flat and is not smooth.
(image by Paul Brasby)

"Riding" north on BLM Road 7026. It's much steeper and rougher here than it looks.
(image by Paul Brasby)

That's a lot of prairie. BLM Road 7026.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Finding some tracks on BLM Road 7026, with the Black Hills in the distant haze.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Riding north on BLM Road 7026, a glimpse of what eventually may be gravel.
(image by Paul Brasby)

More and more dirt two track further north on BLM Road 7026.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Water and dispersed camping at Limestone Butte Reservoir along BLM Road 7026.
(image by Paul Brasby)

After Limestone Butte Reservoir, BLM Road 7026 actually sports some gravel.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Back to driven-in two track over grass on BLM Road 7043.

About 15 miles of rough two track across otherwise trackless prairie on BLM Road 7045.
By the early fall, the spring green is long gone and the tracks are easier to follow.

The occasional cattle water tank may or may not contain water.

Looking back to the south when leaving Buffalo Gap National Grassland on BLM Road 7045.

Fall River County Road 6291 crossing the Cheyenne River en route to Buffalo Gap.

Buffalo Gap Trading Post welcomes the weary traveler.
(image by Paul Brasby)

Buffalo Gap Trading Post music venue.
(image by Paul Brasby)


Feeling Good, Nina Simone (1965).