Long Memories In Small Towns

Bring a song and a smile for the banjo,

Better get while the gettin's good,

Hitch a ride to the end of the highway,

Where the neon turns to wood.

C'mon the risin' wind,

We're goin' up around the bend,

Oooh!

Up Around The Bend, John Fogerty (1970).

Mrs. Joyce Rathje, 92 years young, recently retired school teacher at Rising City, Nebraska.

Admittedly, I've been a Point A to Point B traveler for so long that it's my default mindset. What's the fastest, most direct route to drive to my destination? Got to be efficient. Got to get there. Things to do. People to see. Let's go. Time is short.

Since pedaling across the country on the back roads of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (See, 2021 GDMBR), however, I find myself more often taking local roads, slow rolling through small towns, checking out city parks, and even stopping for a meal at a local cafe. It's always worth it.

Sometimes, the back road route creates a highlight of the trip. Even a drive to a back road bike ride.

Memorial marking the Rising City K-12 school, long since removed.
The auditorium in the background is still used by the multi-town school district.

Earlier this fall, I fashioned a road trip that included a long weekend in Marysville, Kansas for the Pony Express 2 Day Bikepacking Adventure. See, 2022 Pony Express Bikepack. Starting the Kansas portion of the trip from Eastern South Dakota, I consider several routes to drive the remaining 250-ish miles. I decide to venture south of Yankton on U.S. Highway 81, at least until it turns westward. Then I'll take a few local roads 40-50 miles east and south to eventually connect with U.S. Highway 77 just outside Lincoln. It seems like a reasonably direct route on a nice mix of roads.

A few hours down the road, after neglecting to get gas in Columbus, I find myself looking to refuel in the midst of little but corn fields. Finally, a few buildings appear along the road, one of which is a gas station. Hey, it's actually a small town called Rising City, Nebraska, population 413. Well over 40 years ago, my wife's oldest brother married a girl from Rising City. Maybe I'll surprise her with a picture of her old school.

While at the gas pump, I notice the car next to me sports Nebraska license plates. Since my Great Divide ride, striking up random conversations with complete strangers is now second nature. So I ask the lady there if she knows where I can find the Rising City school, so I can take a picture for my sister-in-law. 

The lady politely asks, "She grew up here? What's her name?" 

"Dulcie." 

"Dulcie Gross. I was her kindergarten teacher. I'm Mrs. Rathje."

I stood in disbelief. How does this nice old lady remember a student from her kindergarten class 60 years ago? Mrs. Rathje simply goes on, noting Dulcie's musical talent and quiet nature. Amazing.

Mrs. Rathje then adds that the old school was torn down years ago when Rising City joined a multi-town school district, although the old gymnasium still is used. She also said she wasn't about to tell me where Dulcie lived, because that house has fallen into such disrepair that it would "break her heart." 

She says she's sorry, but she must be going. At 92 years young, still driving her car and living in her house, she leaves to care for a couple of her great grandkids. Amazing. If not for her family commitments, I think she'd hop on a bike for a tour around town.

The entrance to the Rising City school gymnasium.

A few weeks later, I tell Dulcie of my encounter with Mrs. Rathje and show her these pictures. Of course, she remembers her former teacher and joyfully talks of growing up in her hometown. Dulcie is not a bit surprised by Mrs. Rathje's overall spryness and vivid memory. Besides, says Dulcie, "Small towns have long memories sometimes."

This traveler will certainly remember this stop in a small town along a back road.

Up Around The Bend, Credence Clearwater Revival (1970).

The Power Of One

You don't need money, don't take fame,

Don't need no credit card to ride this train,

It's strong and it's sudden and it's cruel sometimes,

But it might just save your life,

That's the power of love, that's the power of love.

The Power of Love, Huey Lewis, Chris Hayes, Johnny Colla (1985).

On Day 2 of his 2020 Cloud Peak 500, Paul Brasby joyfully crests the climb up Hunt Mountain.
He remains the course record holder of that 500 mile bikepacking race
in the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming.

Now finishing its ninth year, the Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash is a fixture on the Northern Kansas gravel cycling scene for its signature 120 mile race, its more accessible 75 mile and 30 mile routes, relay races, and a 2 day bikepacking adventure. Mark and Renee Hoffman of Backroads Bicycle, along with the City of Marysville, the Black Squirrel Cycling League, and a host of dedicated volunteers, put together a festival with something for everyone. This year, over 330 cyclists signed up for a taste of the Pony Express gravel experience.

It all started with one person.

In 2020, Paul Brasby leads out the inaugural Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash Bikepacking Adventure.
(photo by Black Squirrel Cycling League)

Paul Brasby is an engineer for the Union Pacific Railroad based out of North Platte, Nebraska. Over the years, his work has regularly taken him to the railroad town of Marysville, Kansas, with scheduled layovers there of 12 hours and often longer. An avid cyclist, Paul eventually left a bicycle in Marysville to ride during such layovers and soon discovered a vast network of unique gravel and dirt roads radiating deep into the surrounding countryside. There seemingly was no end to scenic, challenging roads in every direction.

About this time, Paul and his cycling buddies discovered the burgeoning gravel road racing scene and raced the inaugural, now legendary, Odin's Revenge in 2012. Smitten by the gravel bug, Paul then competed in many other races, enjoying a wide range of experiences resulting from the free wheeling, independent spirit of race directors and riders. Inspired by those grass roots races, he decided to share the wealth of his knowledge of great back roads by creating his own race.

Recognizing the potential for amazing gravel race routes from Marysville, Paul approached Brenda Staggenborg of the Marysville Chamber of Commerce for maps of local roads and for leads to appropriate locals for help organizing a gravel race. To Paul's surprise, the Chamber itself decided to join Paul to create the Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash. In the fall of 2014, they readily filled their field limit of 75. Five years later, with rider numbers approaching 200, Paul decided to turn the entire event over to a new, growing group of local gravel enthusiasts known as the Black Squirrel Cycling League. Before leaving, however, Paul initiated the first Pony Express 2 Day Bikepacking Adventure, the latest addition to the expanding Pony Express experience. See, 2022 Pony Express Bikepack and 2020 Pony Express Bikepack.

Paul Brasby bikepacking the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route in 2021.

So, over 330 cyclists enter to ride one of the 6 ways to experience the 2022 Pony Express Gravel Dash. They flock to Marysville, Kansas (population 3,447) for a weekend festival celebrating the local gravel cycling culture. That's the result of one person, not even a local, who discovered the joy of riding rough back roads, recognized the potential for great routes out of Marysville, and worked to create an event from scratch, with no bank roll, no sponsors, no endorsements, and no experience. Paul's dedication, and resulting accomplishment, is remarkable and inspiring.

As Huey Lewis sang, "You don't need money, don't take fame, don't need no credit card to ride this train."

One person. One passion. One idea. And the courage and commitment to make it happen. 

The power of one. 

What's your passion?

The Power Of Love, Huey Lewis & The News (1985).

No Hurries, No Worries

Yeah, keep on shinin' your light,

Gonna make everything, pretty mama,

Gonna make everything alright,

And I aint got no worries,

Cause I aint in no hurry at all.

Black Water, Patrick Simmons (1973).

Five weeks passed without a blog post. Other than a sabbatical during my 7 week ride of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, that's the longest span of non-activity here in years.

There's no good reason. I have plenty of stories and topics swirling around my brain, including a couple more posts on the Pony Express Bikepacking Adventure, a series on our 5 day Black Hills Bounty bikepacking ride, another spotlight on the lifestyle of Coffeeneuring, and any number of posts on thoughts of riding next year. Maybe they all just need some time to percolate.

But right now, it's autumn in the Black Hills. Maybe more than any other season, autumn is my time to explore new backroads, to build a deeper understanding of how the roads interact with these lands, and to fire the imagination for creating new experiences. And to just ride.

So, I haven't been writing. But I have been riding. And taking pictures and notes. I find myself looking to the Northern Hills, especially for the 2023 Black Hills Bounty.

I'm finding roads like these. More to come. No hurries. No worries.

Black Water, Doobie Brothers Live (1979).

2022 Pony Express 120 Bikepack

And it makes me wanna take a back road,
Makes me wanna take the long way home.
Put a little gravel in my travel,
Unwind, unravel all night long.
Take A Back Road, Rhett Akins & Luke Laird (2011).

Sunset at the Pony Express Bikepacking Adventure.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

The Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash is a fixture on the Kansas and Nebraska gravel scene for its signature 120 mile race over rough gravel and dirt roads, shorter 30 and 75 mile routes, and relay races. Race Directors Renee and Mark Hoffman of Backroads Bicycles pull together a committed team and a legion of volunteers to create an energetic, festive event for everyone. Their gravel family continues to grow and this event is a big reason why.

Although the marque attraction is the main event on Saturday, I'm here in Marysville, Kansas for the 2 Day Bikepacking Adventure, which I rode two years ago. Pony Express 120 Bikepacking Adventure. This unique event starts on Friday with cyclists carrying their chosen sleep gear and riding a chunk of the 120 mile route to a campsite for an evening of fellowship. In the morning, riders complete the 120 mile route to finish as part of the main event. You can even race in on Saturday, if that's your flavor.

New this year is a Bikepacking Swap Meet on Thursday night, followed by Q&A sessions by veteran bikepackers Peggy Waite Bradley (Cannonball 550), Aaron Apel (Great Plains Route), and Paul Brasby and me (Great Divide Mountain Bike Route). Lively interactions between passionate bikepackers extend past sunset and into the evening. It all ends far too soon.

Bikepacking Swap Meet on Thursday evening.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

Rolling out of Backroads Bicycles at 7:00 am on Friday, the bikepackers stream west on pavement to clear town and soon turn south onto rough gravel and dirt roads for which the Pony Express is known. Rough roads of mostly dirt wind through sprawling fields of ripening corn, soy beans, and sorghum. Although a few fields show some activity of the upcoming harvest, the back roads are still relatively clear of large farm equipment. It's the primo season to be riding out here.

The first 21 miles bump along toward the small town of Barnes for the first checkpoint. Boisterous volunteers Peggy and Tiffany, both of whom will race on Saturday, re-supply riders with water, snacks, and encouragement. The day heats up and the dirt roads get rougher. By the time I reach the second checkpoint at mile 43, I'm ready for a break. I plop down in the air conditioned Palmer Cafe for a cheeseburger, fries, and coke. No, that's not racing food. That's bikepacking food. I lounge there for more than an hour, and likely would have stayed longer, but the cafe closes after lunch.

Now, it's decision time. Do I continue on the 120 mile route for another 46 overheated, hilly, rough miles? Or do I ride an alternative route 16 miles straight to camp? Until the very recent past, that question would not have entered my mind. I would have simply continued the 120 mile route without a second thought. No longer. Today I decide to spin the short cut to enjoy several more hours hanging out with everyone at camp. That still means a 59 mile day on a loaded gravel bike on a whole lot of rough roads. 

Bikepackers Desiree, Gabriel, and Ben ready their gear at the Friday morning start.
Around the corner, I'm talking with somebody about something. I'll be along.
(photo by Pony Express 120 Gravel Dash)

The short cut blasts 14 miles straight east on moderately thick county gravel right through a relentless progression of rolling hills in the shadeless 95 degree heat. It's reminiscent of Gravel Worlds with its never-ending waves of hills across a vast sea of gravel. The main route starts to sound better.

At long last, I turn off for the final two miles to camp. The developed gravel road drops behind, replaced with steep pitches of loose dirt, rocks, and ruts. It's not over until it's over.

As the road finally crests a particularly nasty rocky pitch, a lone camper squats in an empty pasture overlooking a small pond. Our host Jon Naaf marks our campsite with a cozy oasis of chairs and coolers wedged into the camper's sliver of shade. He enthusiastically hails riders as they trickle in, first from the short cut and then from the main route. All are hot, tired, and grateful for relief. In addition to a hearty greeting, Jon offers cold drinks and snacks, cooks gourmet burgers, and gathers all to share a peaceful evening.

Many miles of dirt roads like this on Day 1.

With the backdrop of a fiery sunset, we gather around the camper over burgers, snacks, and drinks. New friends connect. Old friends re-connect. All share experiences of the day, of days past, and of days to come. It's a bikepacker rendezvous.

This unique event attracts both bikepacking veterans and new comers. The old timers may have more stories, but not necessarily better ones. For example, Jamie and Richard ride with their Boy Scout sons Noah and Charles, all experienced hikers and campers, but first time bikepackers. Their excited, joyful tales of their day long ride to camp bring smiles and laughter all around.

Competitive triathlete Jeff shifted to bikepacking to ride with his teenage son Carter, again both first time backpackers. Carter looks absolutely shelled when arriving at camp, slumps over in a chair, and moves not a muscle for maybe an hour. Eventually, he revives. By morning, he's a colt busting out of the corral. Carter ultimately finishes second in the race home and is a living example of the recuperative powers of youthful exuberance. And sleep.

Nineteen bikepackers gather at camp, all told, and elevated chatter fills the air well into the evening. As the skies darken, a blast from a fast moving cold front scatters the group to their individual shelters. The oppressive heat of Friday is over, but so is our gathering for the night.

Paul Brasby and Ben Cooper find a solitary tree a bit off the main campsite.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

At the first hint of daylight, the camp stirs to life under threatening skies and a steady northerly wind. With

heavy rain forecast, Race Director Mark Hoffman sends us on the "wet" route, an alternative route home that replaces miles of dirt roads with good gravel and pavement. Sure enough, at 7:00 am with our first pedal stroke from camp, the first rain drops fall.

With only 28 miles to ride back to Marysville, the 50-some degree rain is not a big deal, but the rain does not stop all morning. Nor does the wind. It is a wet, windy, cool, muddy ride all the way home. Thanks to the re-route to gravel and pavement, it's actually a ride home, rather than a slug through the mud.

My only picture from a rainy Saturday is at the finish after a hot shower.

Notwithstanding the conditions, I see nothing but smiles and hear nothing but good cheer from all the bikepackers at the finish. A hot shower certainly helps, along with homemade pie and ice cream, other food and drinks, a Finisher's towel (appropriate), and my door prize (concentrated bike cleaner, again appropriate). Many talk of returning with more friends.

For beginners, the Pony Express is a low risk introduction to bikepacking. For veterans, it's a celebration and gathering of kindred spirits. Renee and Mark Hoffman, along with their team and all the volunteers, really put together an event for everyone.

Take A Back Road, Rodney Atkins (2011).

Bikepack Testing the Ronin

The F-18 NATOPS contains everything they want you to know about your aircraft.

I'm assuming you know the book, inside and out. 

(tosses book into trash). So does your enemy. 

But what the enemy doesn't know, is your limits.

I intend to find them. Test them. Push beyond.

Captain Pete "Maverick" Mitchell, Top Gun Maverick (2022).

Fully loaded for an overnighter, the Ronin flies on Primary roads.

All summer I've been riding my new Alchemy Ronin gravel bike on an mix of pavement, prairie county gravel, Black Hills dirt, and even single track. It's light, fast, and agile. And a whole lot of fun.

Even with a big technology update over my older bikes (see New Bike Day), I find that my biggest adjustment is its weight. At 18 pounds, the Ronin handles so differently from my much heavier steel bikes, especially when navigating around and over obstacles. Not necessarily better or worse, just different.

One afternoon, while bouncing over rough Forest Service roads exploring my limits of fun on a feather weight drop bar bike with 45 mm semi-slick tires, I realize that summer is quickly fading. Flying up the schedule is the Pony Express 120 Bikepacking Adventure, a two day event that I rode two years ago on my Black Mountain Monster Cross. 2020 Pony Express Bikepack. I wonder if the Ronin is up for an overnight load.

Onto a Low Standard road, the loaded Ronin just handles it.

So, I assemble bags and gear for a 120 mile warm weather overnighter on north-central Kansas county gravel roads. Compared to a multi-day or multi-week self-supported bikepacking ride, my sleep kit, cold and rain clothes, tool and repair kit, food, and kitchen are significantly scaled back. I'd call it appropriately minimal for the Pony Express ride. 

All my gear fits into three Revelate Designs bags:  the Salty Roll and Egress Pocket on the handle bars and a 14L Terrapin on the saddle. A small Gas Tank on the top tube holds on-the-go food. With judicious loading, the Ronin feels pretty well balanced, fore and aft. This may work. 

Topped off with 2 liters of water, the loaded bike weighs in right at 37 pounds, about one-half the weight of my loaded Jones 29+ at the start of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route last summer. That's good, as I'm currently probably at one-half the strength and conditioning as then.

A view of the south side of Buzzard's Roost, a popular single track trail system.

Starting out on a USFS Primary road, I certainly feel the extra weight, but it's all relative. At 37 pounds, the loaded Ronin weighs about what my Jones 29+ weighs with a couple of water bottles and a few M&M's. Other than taking a little more work to get up an incline, the extra weight matters not. The Ronin rides straight and smooth, undisturbed by the light gravel and uneven surface.

More specifically, the Ronin handles solidly on the Primary roads, perhaps even a bit more stable loaded. It does not wander through loose gravel and is not skittish over washboard. Onto a series of USFS Low Standard dirt roads, I work more of the road to ride a suitable line and the Ronin just handles it.

The loaded front end feels different from my Black Mountain Monster Cross, which features a relatively stiff aluminum stem and handle bar coupled with a gently sloping steel fork that visibly moves to absorb vibrations. The Ronin carbon fork feels much stiffer, but the carbon stem and carbon handle bar feel much more active, which I had not noticed so much unloaded. That's a pretty long head tube, so the titanium frame probably contributes, too. I don't know.

Overall, the ride seems to be comparably comfortable to the famously comfortable Black Mountain. More time in the saddle will test this initial conclusion, but so far, so great. And, yes, the Ronin is headed to Marysville, Kansas for the Pony Express 120 Bikepacking Adventure.

Pilot Training Scene, Top Gun Maverick (2022)

One Of A Kind - Jones Bikes 20th Anniversary

One of a kind love affair, 

Is the kind of love that you read about in a fairy tale.

Like the sun that shines on a rainy day,

It's a cloud of love.

One Of A Kind, Joseph B. Jefferson (1973).

Jeff Jones recently announced a 20th Anniversary celebration of Jones Bikes. Jones 20th Anniversary. That's quite an achievement for an eccentric tinkerer who fortunately focused his creative energy on bicycle frames and forks. That's also my cue to mark the occasion by linking my various blog posts over the years about the amazing Jones 29+ that I bought in the spring of 2018. To be fair, every blog post on bikepacking the Cloud Peak 500, Black Hills Bounty, and Great Divide Mountain Bike Route involves my Jones 29+. I love this bike.

Not from a catalogue. Jeff Jones sent me this image of my bike before shipping it in 2018.
That fork! That chain stay! That wheel base! Those angles! That upright position!
Even with those 3.25" knobby tires, that clearance, both front and rear!
What in the world?

In early 2015, I started researching mountain bikes for riding single track and rough roads, especially loaded for multi-day bikepacking. I sought to take my overnight rides on my Black Mountain Monster Cross to the next level of rough stuff and distance, maybe even something way out there like the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. Eventually, I stumbled across JonesBikes.com, where Jeff explained the inspiration, experimentation, and evolving designs of his frames and forks in a series of detailed articles and videos over some years. I loved his innovative thoughts, iterative process, and hands-on trials, but so many individual pieces seemed so far off conventional thought. How does all that come together?

With no Jones bike to borrow or demo and with virtually no used Jones bike market (that says something), I ultimately took a leap of faith and bought a new, custom built Jones 29+ LWB in the spring of 2018. Jeff spent over two hours on the phone with me going through, in great detail, the selection of every single  component for my build. Every. Single. Component. It was unforgettable. A Mountain Bike By Jeff Jones (decision thought process); Jones 29+ The Build (initial build); Jones 29+ What It Is (first month of riding). After 4 1/2 years of riding, I could not be more pleased.

New bike joy on M-Hill.
(photo by Chani Groseth)

For me, the Jones 29+ is a perfect bike for single track and rough back road riding, loaded or unloaded. It has flawlessly carried me over many miles and days, including my 2021 ride of the entire 2,500+ mile length of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. The Jones 29+ performs with exceptional comfort, control, and capacity riding rough stuff all day, day after day after day, fully loaded for touring.

Here's a link to my posts of the Jones 29+ as I prepared for my 7 day ride of the Cloud Peak 500 route in the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming in August 2020. Gearing Up For Cloud Peak. After Cloud Peak, I reviewed the Jones 29+ to prepare for riding the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route in the summer of 2021. Cloud Peak 500 - Jones 29+ Next Time. Then I analyzed its performance on the Great Divide for future rides, including a possible return. The Great Divide - Jones 29+ No Change. It's worked out great.

My Jones 29+ about 1,000 miles into the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route in 2021.

So, Happy 20th Anniversary to Jeff Jones and Jones Bikes! Thank you for your unique contributions to the bicycling community. I love my Jones 29+ and hope to still be riding it for your 40 year anniversary.

One Of A Kind, The Spinners (1973).

Aint Worried 'Bout It Right Now

I don't know what you've been told,

But time is running out, no need to take it slow.

I'm stepping to you toe to toe,

I should be scared, honey, maybe so.

But I aint worried 'bout it right now, (right now)

Keeping dreams alive, 1999 heroes.

I aint worried 'bout it right now, (right now)

Swimming in the floods, dancing on the clouds below.

I aint worried 'bout it.

I Aint Worried, Ryan Tedder, Brent Kutzle, Tyler Spry, John Eriksson, Peter Moren & Bjorn Yttling (2022).

Just another Low Standard Road on the Black Hills Bounty.

The second annual Black Hills Bounty draws nigh. That's a 5 day, off-pavement bikepacking tour of the Black Hills of South Dakota that I created at the request of some out-of-state friends.

Last year, the Black Hills Bounty averaged almost 60 miles and 5,000 feet of elevation gain a day on a smattering of my favorite Forest Service roads in the Central Black Hills. It all came together, despite a seemingly steady stream of audibles that modified each day's ride. It worked out great, mainly because the guys who rode it were great. 2021 Black Hills Bounty Wrap.

Creating the route for this year, I scaled back the distance and elevation gain of each day by about a third to allow more time for navigation, water sourcing, re-supply, camp site selection, optional evening exploratory rides, and, mostly, hanging out at camp. Call it Bikepacking 202. With little more than a digital map and general description from me, each rider will be self-supported, self-navigated, and overall self-sufficient, at least within the context of a small group bikepacking ride. 

These friends are experienced endurance cyclists, so I suppose I should not be surprised at the very few questions from the group about this ride, even at this late date. Maybe I shortened the route so much it looks easy. Maybe the digital maps show all they need to know about the route and terrain. Maybe they've thoroughly prepared and tested bodies, bikes, and gear. Maybe they've researched weather. Maybe they're just flat out ready to ride.

Or maybe this group is like the Top Gun pilots playing Dog Fight Football before their improbable mission. Aint worried 'bout it, right now.

I Aint Worried, OneRepublic (2022).