The Cloud Peak 500. A unique ride through the Old West. And another great shake out ride for the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route.
In late 2019, compadre Lucas Haan alerted me to the Cloud Peak 500 bikepacking route in the Big Horn Mountains of Central Wyoming. I immediately recognized its potential as a primo shake out ride as part of my long running preparations to ride the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. The Cloud Peak 500 offered about 20 percent of the distance and elevation gain of the Great Divide on a seemingly similar variety of remote roads and terrain, with occasional small towns for re-supply. As a bonus, the Big Horns are but a few hours from Rapid City. I marked it as a priority ride for 2020.
Meanwhile, cycling friend Paul Brasby of North Platte, Nebraska caught wind of my Cloud Peak 500 plans. As a long time successful road racer, Paul was an enthusiastic gravel racer and bikepacker with both eyes fixed on riding the Great Divide. He also concluded that the Cloud Peak 500 looked to be an ideal ride to prepare for that, as well as a great ride on its own. We decided to start together and see how it goes.
Dropping off Dude's Downhill on the Cloud Peak 500. (photo by Paul Brasby)
Over seven long, hot days in August 2020, we rode the Cloud Peak 500 route, which was my longest, hardest, and overall biggest ride of that year. Although I stopped short of 500 miles, Paul rode on, through a gauntlet of challenges, to become the first, and still only, official finisher of the Cloud Peak 500 bikepacking race.
I then wrote a series of blog posts about our experience, primarily as a scrapbook for me and any friends that might enjoy it, but also as a resource for others who may be intrigued. Those Daily Ride reports describe our experience and the Logistics reports reveal much to help plan such a ride.
Eventually, I compiled all those blog posts onto a single Page called Cloud Peak 500 Page (2020) that appears within a column of Pages on the right side of the Black Hills BackBone blog. If you're looking for a shake out ride to prepare for the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, or just looking for a unique 500 mile bikepacking adventure in Central Wyoming, take a look at the Cloud Peak 500.
The Cloud Peak 500. A unique ride through the Old West. And a great shake out ride for the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route.
In late 2019, compadre Lucas Haan alerted me to the Cloud Peak 500 bikepacking route in the Big Horn Mountains of Central Wyoming. I immediately recognized its potential as a primo shake out ride as part of my long running preparations to ride the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. The Cloud Peak 500 offered about 20 percent of the distance and elevation gain of the Great Divide on a seemingly similar variety of remote roads and terrain, with occasional small towns for re-supply. As a bonus, the Big Horns are but a few hours from Rapid City. I marked it as a priority ride for 2020.
Meanwhile, cycling friend Paul Brasby of North Platte, Nebraska caught wind of my Cloud Peak 500 plans. As a lifetime, successful road racer, Paul is an enthusiastic gravel racer and bikepacker with both eyes fixed on riding the Great Divide. He also concluded that the Cloud Peak 500 looks to be an ideal ride to prepare for that, as well as a great ride on its own. We decided to start together and see how it goes.
Dropping off Dude's Downhill on the Cloud Peak 500. (image by Paul Brasby)
Over seven long, hot days in August, we rode the Cloud Peak 500 route, which was my longest, hardest, and overall biggest ride of 2020. Although I stopped short of 500 miles, Paul rode on, through a gauntlet of challenges, to become the first, and still only, official finisher of the Cloud Peak 500 bikepacking race.
I then wrote a series of blog posts about our experience, primarily as a scrapbook for me and any friends that might enjoy it, but also as a resource for others who may be intrigued. Those Daily Ride reports describe our experience and the Logistics reports reveal much to help plan such a ride.
Eventually, I compiled all those blog posts onto a single Page called Cloud Peak 500 Page (2020) that appears within a column of Pages on the right side of the Black Hills BackBone blog. If you're looking for a shake out ride to prepare for the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, or just looking for a unique 500 mile bikepacking adventure in Central Wyoming, take a look at the Cloud Peak 500.
A post on this blog doesn't often appear overnight. Typically some time passes while I process an experience to understand it well enough to be able to express it. Sometimes that doesn't ever happen. However, as thoughts, feelings, images and all sorts of things rattle around upstairs, often a song emerges to light a path to the story. When a song helps me understand and express an experience, I'll add at the top of the post a relevant quote from that song, and a complete video clip at the bottom. The song then becomes part of the story.
I have no original music to share, for I'm no songwriter. And, as my family repeatedly reminds me, much of my limited musical knowledge is from the 1970's or so. Yeah, well, I still ride a 1991 rigid single speed mountain bike on occasion and use an Oxford Comma to boot, so that's all just part of it.
Backroads in the Big Horns. (photo by Paul Brasby)
In any event, with emotions so raw on the Cloud Peak 500, songs came to mind readily for the ride reports, even for one I didn't write. That is, at first glance of Paul's striking sunset pictures as he prepared to ride deep into the night on Day 6, I could hear Johnny Cash sing "Ghost Riders In The Sky." When Paul later submitted his ride report for Day 6, I unilaterally added that song, deciding to ask for forgiveness rather than permission. A country music guy, Paul later said he loved it. For what it's worth, I did use his selection of country music for his Day 7 and 8 posts.
Now that all the individual ride and logistics reports are posted, I've re-read them several times to see how they fit together. With 12 ride reports and 9 logistics reports published over the course of almost four months, there's a lot of material. But I finally put my thoughts together to write a Cloud Peak 500 Wrap Up post, with its own song.
So, I'm feeling good, but sometimes all the words get in the way. So, I decided to also wrap up our Cloud Peak 500 by the music alone. Below are the lyrics quote and video clip of the song from each ride report. Now, I can go to one place to listen to all the music telling the story of our Cloud Peak 500. I also included a link to each ride report, in case the music triggers a desire to read the narrative. Now, that's a wrap.
Took my love, I took it down Climbed a mountain and I turned around And I saw my reflection in the snow covered hills 'Til the landslide brought me down
Landslide, Stevie Nicks (1975)
Landslide, Fleetwood Mac (1975), performed by Stevie Nicks (2009)
It's a hard life to live, but it gives back what you give And I'm not missing a thing, watching the full moon crossing the range Riding the storm out. Riding the storm out. Riding the storm out. Riding the storm out. Riding The Storm Out, Gary Richrath, REO Speedwagon (1973)
I'll be back in the high life again All the doors I closed one time Will be opened up again Back In The High Life Again, Steve Winwood & Will Jennings (1986)
Don't look back, a new day is breakin' It's been too long since I felt this way I don't mind where I get taken The road is callin', today is the day. Don't Look Back, Tom Scholtz (1978)
We're beaten and blown by the wind Trampled in dust I'll show you a place High on a desert plain Where the streets have no name Where The Streets Have No Name, Bono and U2 (1987)
An old cowboy went riding out one dark and windy day Upon a ridge he rested as he went along his way When all at once a mighty herd of red eyed cows he saw A-plowing through the ragged sky and up the cloudy draw Yippie yi ooh, Yippie yi yay, ghost riders in the sky
Their faces gaunt, their eyes were blurred, their shirts all soaked with sweat He's riding hard to catch that herd, but he ain't caught 'em yet 'Cause they've got to ride forever on that range up in the sky On horses snorting fire, as they ride on hear their cry
Yippie yi ooh, Yippie yi yay, ghost riders in the sky
It's a long and a dusty road It's a hot and a heavy load And I can't help but wonder where I'm bound. I Can't Help But Wonder Where I'm Bound, Tom Paxton (1964)
I Can't Help But Wonder Where I'm Bound, Tom Paxton (1964)
Birds flying high, you know how I feel Sun in the sky, you know how I feel Breeze driftin' on by, you know how I feel It's a new dawn, it's a new day It's a new life, for me And I'm feeling good Feeling Good, Leslie Bricusse & Anthony Newly (1964)
Birds flying high, you know how I feel Sun in the sky, you know how I feel Breeze driftin' on by, you know how I feel It's a new dawn, it's a new day It's a new life, for me And I'm feeling good Feeling Good, Leslie Bricusse & Anthony Newly (1964)
Paul Brasby and Craig Groseth enjoying the descent of Ten Sleep Canyon on Day 5.
At the end of our Cloud Peak 500, I felt good about the experience. Now, with all of our daily ride and logistics reports posted, the Cloud Peak 500 is finally over for me. And I'm still feeling good.
My tale clearly was of two rides. The first ride was Day 1, which launched from sky high expectations to plummet into a barren ditch of doubt and despair, far deeper than my worst physical bonk. Emerging from that abyss, I rode stronger and smarter each of the next 6 days to work through another 300 miles of difficult, rugged, remote roads. That second ride reaffirmed my faith in the healing power of a loving God.
Several folks have asked whether I'm going back to the Cloud Peak 500 to complete some notion of "unfinished business." No. I rode the Cloud Peak 500 route as I rode it. I'm good with the experience.
For Paul, I would write his Cloud Peak 500 story as a trilogy. Part 1 recounts the excitement of Day 1 dominated by successfully riding the rugged foothills and massive climb up Red Grade Road and then the turmoil of my collapse throwing the entire enterprise into jeopardy. Part 2 features our hard, hot, rewarding rides on the next four days that each covered about 50 miles/5,000 feet of elevation gain on challenging roads through unique, remote backcountry. Part 3 shifts to the big chain ring for his race to beat the clock by hammering the final 250 miles in about 2 1/2 days. Paul rose to meet every challenge and obstacle, whether physical, mental or emotional. What a ride.
Of course, Paul would probably say that it was all just one awesome adventure. And let's do it again.
Screen shot of digital map of Cloud Peak 500 route from ridewithgps.com.
The Cloud Peak 500 was my longest, hardest, and overall biggest ride of 2020 and deserved a commensurate writeup. It's a lot of writing, because it was a lot of riding. Like most of this blog, I wrote this series primarily as a digital scrapbook for myself and any friends that may enjoy it.
But this particular ride also belongs to my cycling buddy Paul, who persevered through a gauntlet of challenges to become the first official finisher of the Cloud Peak 500 bikepacking race. I wrote this for his scrapbook, too, and to document and recognize his achievement. Well done, Paul.
Additionally, this series of posts was written for all the bikepackers and potential bikepackers out there dreaming of their next adventure. If that could be in Wyoming, the Cloud Peak 500 certainly is a route to consider. These ride reports, and especially the logistics reports, reveal much to help plan such a ride.
Finally, I wrote this series of posts to honor the work of Sarah Wallick and Aaron Denberg in creating the Cloud Peak 500. Only passionate, local enthusiasts know their backcountry well enough, and care enough, to piece together a route such as the Cloud Peak 500 and then share it with everyone. Cloud Peak 500 Official Site. Thank you, Sarah and Aaron. I hope to ride some remote roads with you in the future.
The Cloud Peak 500 is a 500 mile remote road loop in and around the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming. This post is part of a series that describes some of each day's logistics involved when we rode the route on bicycles loaded for a 7-8 day self-supported tour in early August 2020. It also includes a screen shot and link to a digital map on ridewithgps.com, which I created after the trip to show our ride for each separate day. Finally, it adds a photo gallery. This post covers Miles 434-490 of the route, which was Paul's final day. Go to Miles 0-52 for Logistics for Day 1, go toMiles 52-104 for Logistics for Day 2, go to Miles 104-151 for Logistics for Day 3, go to Miles 151-201 for Logistics for Day 4, go to Miles 201-251 for Logistics for Day 5, go to Miles 251-299 for Logistics for my Day 6, go to Miles 299-356 for Logistics for my Day 7, and go to Miles 356-434 for Logistics for Paul's Day 7.
After winding 434 miles of up, down, and along the Big Horn Mountains in a mammoth counter-clockwise loop, the Cloud Peak 500 strikes for the eastern prairie for a rolling 56 miles from Buffalo to the finish in Sheridan. Know that no commercial establishments exist on route for re-supply, despite what appear to be towns on a map. This section is a welcomed break from all the previous days of long, hot climbs and is a fitting finish for this self-supported tour.
Paul starts his Day 8 from the town of Buffalo at an elevation of about 4,600 feet and finished the day, and the Cloud Peak 500 route, 56 miles later at the town of Sheridan at an elevation of about 3,800 feet. The first 23 miles roll generally downhill along Clear Creek on Kumor Road (40), then Belus Road (102), then Box Elder Road (171), and finally merging with U.S. Highway 14 for 2 miles to "Ucross." All these roads are straight forward to navigate and good, solid gravel to ride.
Ucross appears to be a town on my maps, but it is not. Rather, it is an art studio, gallery, and/or museum of some sort that may be open to the public during other days, hours or times. It certainly is not a place for a traveling cyclist to re-supply provisions. That is also true for all the other spots that appear to be towns along these 56 miles. Carry what you need for this stretch.
Just a half mile after "Ucross," the route turns NorthWest onto Coal Creek Road (195). Here starts the biggest "climb" of the day, about 600 feet of elevation gain over the next 6 miles. Relatively speaking, this is a bump in the road on the Cloud Peak 500.
Cresting that rise, the route drops a mile into "Ulm," another non-town. Continue north on Ulm Road (42), which gently rolls down a valley for about 14 miles to Wyarno Road (84). Just 3 miles later, the route turns onto Wildcat Road (84), which winds and rolls about 5 miles before merging with 336 to enter Sheridan.
These roads are straight forward to navigate and follow. Other than a several mile stretch of fresh gravel that Paul rode into in mid-August 2020, these roads are relatively good, solid gravel roads for the prepared cyclist.
And it all might come together And it all might come unraveled On the road less traveled. The Road Less Traveled, Buddy Brock & Dean Dillon (2001)
After five days of riding the Cloud Peak 500, Paul Brasby and I face the facts. We're running out of time. We need to dramatically increase our daily mileage over the next three days or we will finish short. Decision time. Early on Day 6, we discuss options and leave Ten Sleep with a plan. I wrote about my Day 6 in Decision Day and my Day 7 in High On A Desert Plain. Paul wrote about his Day 6 in Ghost Rider In The Sky , wrote about his Day 7 in the post Wonder Where I'm Bound , and writes about his final day here.
After 7 days, 5 hours and 30 minutes, Paul Brasby is the first and only official finisher of the Cloud Peak 500. From one who was out there with him for 5+ days working those climbs in that August heat, I will paraphrase the legendary Steve Prefontaine to say that somebody may beat that time, but they're going to have to bleed to do it.
I checked the weather for tomorrow before I called it a night. It showed for a hot day in the high desert plains with temperatures in the 90's. I set my alarm for 6:30 am, so I can get an early start before the Mercury starts to rise.
I'm up before the alarm goes off and before long I'm packed and ready to go. It's time to close the book on the Cloud Peak 500.
The route follows river valleys for most of the day to Sheridan, with minimal elevation gain. Climbing to cooler temperatures is not possible.
A quick stop at a convenience store for coffee, hot sandwich, a bag of trail mix, and a quick text message to Craig. I'm back on the road by 7:15 am. The air is cool, as the magical hour for photography is in full swing. I quickly get back on the route and hit gravel soon after. The roads are fast and relatively flat. Once again, I enjoy a slight tailwind.
I was expecting today's route to be a boring, dry desert-like ride, with very little to perk my interest. But was I wrong! Just the opposite happened. I find myself riding in lush valleys with native grasses and alfalfa fields growing strong, ready for another cutting.
Grassy hills, void of trees, covered in green grass jetting upward from the valley floor in all shapes and sizes. Ridge lines form on both sides of the valleys for most of the day. I find myself rubber-necking, as I enjoyed the scenery, like watching a tennis match from the front row at center court. With the early morning light, it made for stunning shadows across the valleys. The roads were flowing through the prairie grass like a freshly laid red ribbon of satin. It was beautiful!!!
I found myself following bicycle tire tracks early on and they appeared to be a set of skinny gravel tires. In the distance, I can see the gravel road abruptly changing from a grey to red color. As I approach the new color of gravel, I noticed the tire tracks made a U-turn in the road and headed back for Buffalo. A local, I figured, doing an out and back.
Well, I quickly discovered why they did. The new color of red gravel was 6 inches of freshly laid pea gravel. Holy Cow!!! Thank God I had 2.2 inch tires on the Cutty. They were just enough to give me the float I needed to stay on top of the loose stuff! This went on for several miles and I was happy to see it end!
I left Buffalo with 3.8 liters of water and I used every bit of it during this leg. The towns dotting the map really aren't towns for the most part. Don't plan on using any of them for refueling purposes!!!
As the day pushes into late morning, the temperature rises with the short hand of the clock. My spirits are increasing with every pedal stroke, as it means I'm getting closer to the end of my journey. The miles are flying by, in epic proportion to the rest of the trip!
I text Crag and fill him in on my location. Craig is as much a part of this finish as it is for me! He may not be riding it with me, but he is with me in spirit. We started this epic adventure together and we're going to finish it together! Because of him, I am here, just miles away from the end of the Cloud Peak 500!
I'm in another valley heading west on WildCat Road following the BNSF railroad tracks. The route makes a change of direction with a series of right and left turns, as it works its way southwest toward Sheridan.
Because of the rolling hills, I can't see the city at all. My computer that started with 486 miles now shows only two! I ride over the last couple of hills and the city of Sheridan now comes into full view. It is literally all down hill from here.
What an amazing, hard fought ride that was. WOW!!!
My computer chirps at me to let me know I crossed the virtual finish line, as I swing into a pay only gas station and motel across the parking lot to take a few pictures. I hop back on my bike and roll to where Craig and I started our adventure . . . 7 days 5 hours and 30 minutes ago!
WE MADE IT!!!
I would like to give a big shout out to Aaron Denberg and his wife Sarah Wallick of Big Horn, Wyoming for putting this route together for all of us to enjoy! In my 42 years of riding, this was the toughest multi-day I've done to date!!! Thank You for an Epic Adventure and for giving us the opportunity to play in your back yard!!!
I happened to come across Craig's blog post about the Cloud Peak 500 and the thought of riding with a friend intrigued me. Thank you Craig for inviting me to tag along and for your friendship on this Epic Journey. I look forward to riding with you again in the back country. Just say when and where!!!
The Cloud Peak 500 is a 500 mile remote road loop in and around the Big Horn Mountains of Wyoming. This post is part of a series that describes some of each day's logistics involved when we rode the route on bicycles loaded for a 7-8 day self-supported tour in early August 2020. It also includes a screen shot and link to a digital map on ridewithgps.com, which I created after the trip to show our ride for each separate day. Finally, it adds a photo gallery. This post covers Miles 356-434 of the route, which was Paul's Day 7. Go to Miles 0-52 for Logistics for Day 1, go toMiles 52-104 for Logistics for Day 2, go to Miles 104-151 for Logistics for Day 3, go to Miles 151-201 for Logistics for Day 4, go to Miles 201-251 for Logistics for Day 5, go to Miles 251-299 for Logistics for my Day 6 and go to Miles 299-356 for Logistics for my Day 7.
Right from the start, this day's climb gains over 3,600 feet in the first 22 miles and that's only half of the climbing over its 77 miles. Expect soft roads, virtually no shade, no development, and no water for at least 40 miles. Once again, however, the final descent eventually pays off, here down Crazy Woman Canyon.
Paul starts his Day 7 from the town of Kaycee at an elevation of about 4,600 feet. The first 12 miles climb steadily on Mayoworth Road (191) through dry prairie sloping up the arid mountainside. Mayoworth comprises a couple of homes and has no commercial establishments. Enjoy the glimpses of green vegetation at this intersection before grinding up another long, hot, dry, soft climb.
From Mayoworth, the route turns onto Slip Road (67), which starts innocently enough by continuing to climb steadily for about 4 miles. At about mile 16, however, Slip Road tosses aside the facade to show its true character. The next 6 miles climb over 2,500 feet.
Yes. That's right. Over 2,500 feet of elevation gain in 6 miles. Not surprisingly, it takes 18 switchbacks to do that. And this soft road offers no shade, no water and no shelter. Virtually no traffic.
After that effort, one receives the shortest of respites before climbing again. At about 30 miles, Slip Road merges into Hazelton Road (3), which continues to roll upwards. Eventually, Paul stopped at a road sign that noted 36 miles down to Kaycee. He rode 7 hours that day to reach that sign. Not until after about 40 miles is the climbing pretty much over. No water anywhere. That's a long, hot, hard day.
The route rolls along Hazelton Road. At about mile 49, shortly before reaching U.S. Highway 16, the route turns off Hazelton Road and follows a serpentine path through a patchwork of roads and trails. Follow your GPS or detailed cue sheets. The following is a general description only. As I discerned, the route turns off Hazelton Road downhill onto Billy Creek Road (USFS 466) for about a mile, turns onto USFS 622 for about another mile, meanders for about another mile to turn onto USFS 473 for about 2 miles, turns onto USFS 33 to finally enter Crazy Woman Canyon.
Crazy Woman Canyon (33) is the road highlight of the day, dropping about 2,600 feet over 10 miles of crazy cool canyon. The road surface is hard and fast, but the road carries traffic and is very narrow, often single lane. Check speeds regularly.
At about 67 miles, the route turns north onto Klondike Road (132) for a prairie rolling 10 miles into the town of Buffalo. Full services available here, including motels and restaurants.
