Black Hills BackBone

Sunday, May 28, 2023

BackBone Grande (Miles 203-272) - Northern Black Hills and Beyond

The BackBone Grande is a 400 mile bikepacking route running south to north across the State of South Dakota along the spine of the Black Hills. It's a highlight reel showcasing the best of the Black Hills and surrounding prairie, connected by a unique mix of remote gravel and dirt roads. It's a Great Divide type of bikepacking experience right here in my backyard. See, Introducing The BackBone Grande.

At Mile 203 of the BackBone Grande, Cheyenne Crossing sits high in the Northern Black Hills, a long time mining area and now popular year round recreational area for both human and machine powered activities. Over the years, countless mining claims and all kinds of residential properties created a byzantine patchwork of private and public land. The route weaves down Forest Service roads through these lands, passing Roughlock Falls, Forest Service campgrounds, and hiking/mountain biking trailheads. Further downhill lies the college/mountain bike town of Spearfish and then the Belle Fouche National Wildlife Refuge. The Northern Black Hills are a fitting finish to the Black Hills portion of the ride.

Entering Spearfish Canyon shortly after Cheyenne Crossing.

From Cheyenne Crossing, the BackBone Grande winds along Spearfish Creek down to Savoy, another ghost town survived by a cafe and resort. The route then gently climbs up Roughlock Falls Road (USFS Secondary 222) to, yes, Roughlock Falls, a popular tourist and picnicking area. That's a nice spot for a break to stretch legs a bit with a stroll to the falls. Further up the well-traveled gravel road is USFS Rod and Gun Campground and then USFS Timon Campground for those looking for a developed campground with potable water, picnic tables, and bathrooms.

Then it's on to Schoolhouse Gulch Road and Beaver Creek Road for a meandering 9 miles. It's easy to fly down these roads, but know that a hilly mile off route is Iron Creek Lake, yet another mountain resort area with some re-supply opportunities. Shortly thereafter, the route turns onto less traveled Higgins Gulch Road (USFS Secondary 214) for a long, gradual descent past Crow Peak Trailhead into Spearfish.

Scenic, though chronically pot-holed, Roughlock Falls Road (USFS 222).

The BackBone Grande enters Spearfish from the NorthWest, traverses much of the retail parts of town, and finally exits from the SouthEast. As the largest town on this entire route, Spearfish offers grocery stores, C-stores, fast food, restaurants, bars, micro-breweries, and two full service bike shops.

To more easily access all these re-supply opportunities, the BackBone Grande takes a route directly on the town's commercial strips, intentionally riding by both bike shops: Rushmore Bikes at 3105 West Fairground Loop and Two Wheeler Dealer at 305 North Main Street. That sounds like a lot of traffic, but it's Spearfish, a town of about 12,000 people. It's just not that busy. And there are bike paths and sidewalks, if the road is too much.

(For just one comparison, the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route takes a similar, much longer NW to SE route through most of Butte, Montana, population 34,500).

USFS Timon Campground, on Roughlock Falls Road (USFS 222).

A bit south of downtown, the City of Spearfish operates a campground along Spearfish Creek next to Spearfish City Park descriptively named The Spearfish City Campground. Notwithstanding the vanilla name, the City Campground is popular with campers of all kinds and a great spot for a Zero Day. It's also near the start of the Dakota Five-O mountain bike race, a Labor Day fixture for the mountain bikers around here.

The route continues past more retail and crosses Interstate 90. But this is still a small town. Pavement turns to gravel less a half mile past a Wal-Mart parking lot. Soon, the route turns onto Lookout Mountain Road, a Minimum Maintenance Road that is regularly deeply rutted. Hope that it's not muddy. It's time to roll some county gravel out into the country.

Lookout Mountain Road. Believe the sign.

Now, we're bumping along some rolling hills through residential acreages and out into ranch land. At Mile 258, the BackBone Grande spins through St. Onge, a town best known for its cattle auctions and bar. Then it's out on Sale Barn Road, a short Minimum Maintenance Road that is chronically muddy.

A twisty spin through scrub oak on Crooked Oaks Road rolls past historic Snoma Finnish Cemetery and then the town of Fruitdale (no commercial establishment). A bit of pavement tops out at the Belle Fouche Reservoir, home of the Bell Fouche National Wildlife Refuge. Developed campsites are available there at the Rocky Point Recreational Area.

Unnumbered, unnamed, sometimes-two-tracks-are-visible connector to Old Baldy Road.

That's it? No Low Standard Roads? No nameless two track? For an entire 70 mile stretch of the BackBone Grande? Well, I may have skipped one or two.

Back on about Mile 217, the BackBone Grande turns north off Schoolhouse Gulch Road (USFS 222) onto a solid Secondary Road for about a half mile. The route then turns sharply left onto a rough, unnumbered two track. Pay attention here. The two track follows an old road bed, but occasionally disappears to one track, or even no track in spots. But I've ridden it. It connects with Old Baldy Road (USFS Low Standard 633.1) in a couple of miles and then back to Schoolhouse Gulch Road near Beaver Crossing. This little shortcut spices up this section, adds a couple of cascading streams through a small canyon, and offers some primo disperse camping opportunities.

Another Low Standard Road/nameless two track combo takes off Higgins Gulch Road just after Iron Creek Lake at about Mile 222. More specifically, USFS Low Standard Road 130.1 winds for a delightful 5 miles along a high ridge through aspen groves before turning onto another unnumbered, unnamed two track connector for a couple of miles, mostly downhill back to Higgins Gulch Road. This deeper dive into the Black Hills promises to add splashes of amazing colors in the summer and autumn.

Really nice USFS Low Standard Road 130.1 through aspen groves.

Other Low Standard/nameless two track connectors are always possible, with our virtually unlimited roads and near roads throughout the Black Hills. I regularly stumble across new finds, so always check the RideWithGPS file to ensure you have the latest update before heading out there.

Navigation never sleeps. Not if you want to ride the BackBone Grande.

Unnumbered, unnamed two track off USFS 130.1.

Next up. Across the big, rolling Northern Prairie to the Geographic Center of the United States, a Bureau of Land Management Wetlands Area, historic stage coach stop of Harding, and the one bar/one cafe town of Buffalo. Just as the North Dakota border approaches, the BackBone Grande takes one last Low Standard Road to climb to Picnic Springs Campground, a forested, rocky oasis in the midst of the prairie. It's not over, until it's over.

For earlier, related posts, see Introducing A Bikepacking Route - The BackBone Grande; (Miles 0-46) - Buffalo Gap National Grasslands; (Miles 46-114) - Open Range Buffalo; (Miles 114-203) - Heart of the Hills. For a digital map, see BackBone Grande Digital Map.

Sunday, May 21, 2023

BackBone Grande (Miles 114-203) - Heart of the Hills

The BackBone Grande is a 400 mile bikepacking route running south to north across the State of South Dakota along the spine of the Black Hills. It's a highlight reel showcasing the best of the Black Hills and surrounding prairie, connected by a unique mix of remote gravel and dirt roads. A Great Divide type of bikepacking experience right here in my backyard. See, Introducing The BackBone Grande.

In its first 114 miles, the BackBone Grande crosses the southern prairie through Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, pokes into the Black Hills through Buffalo Gap, and climbs through buffalo patrolled Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park to reach the historic town of Custer. Now, it rides directly into the Heart of the Hills.

Black Fox Camp Road (USFS 233). Five of my favorite miles anywhere.

Leaving Custer, the BackBone Grande climbs the rails-to-trails Mickelson Trail through an array of granite outcroppings along Laughing Water Creek. After rounding a big bend at about 5 miles, the trail crosses U.S. Highway 385 for a view of Crazy Horse Memorial just a couple of miles to the north. That's not far off-route for a tour of a mountain sculpting in progress.

The BackBone Grande then plunges into the Black Hills on some of my favorite Forest Service gravel roads. Rough Medicine Mountain Road slips through granite crags swarming with marmots. Reno Gulch Road scratches up Coad Hill for sweeping views of 7,242 foot Harney Peak, the highest point east of the Rockies and west of the Alps. And Battle Axe Road winds through rocky hills stuffed with pine trees. It's a visual feast smack through the middle of the Black Hills.

Reno Gulch Road reveals Harney Peak, elevation 7,242'.

At about Mile 140, the BackBone Grande jumps back on the Mickelson Trail for 2 miles to connect to USFS Low Standard Road 389. At that spot, one may stay on the Mickelson Trail and ride south off-route for about 5 miles to descend into the town of Hill City for re-supply, meals, and lodging. Maybe a Zero Day is in order to ride off-route on an optional mixed terrain loop to Mount Rushmore.

And it's not just the monumental Mount Rushmore. That memorable loop climbs steeply up switchbacks to picture perfect Sylvan Lake, squeezes through the Needles Eye tunnel, passes the rock climbers' paradise of the Cathedral Spires, screams down Needles Highway, navigates multiple creek crossings on single track Iron Creek Trail, claws back up Iron Mountain through tunnels framing Mount Rushmore, and then reaches Mount Rushmore for a well deserved break. (Pro Tip - legendary ice cream) A rough dirt road connects to Old Hill City Road, well, just because this is the BackBone Grande. More on this optional Mount Rushmore loop in a later post.

Mickelson Trail tunnel. Yes, one rides through it.

Back on USFS 389, the route passes the restored Gold Mountain Mine (Mile 144), which is well worth the short hike of maybe 50 yards. Although the underground mine itself is closed, the surface buildings are restored, some original equipment survives in the open, and interpretive signs recount the mine's history. It's a nice spot for a break.

After Gold Mountain Mine, classic Black Hills Low Standard roads meander generally north through the forest, in and out of logging activity. One cleared ridge line surprisingly shows another view of Harney Peak now to the distant south. After about 8 entertaining miles, the route runs back into another section of the Mickelson Trail.

Mickelson Trail trestle over Mystic Road. The BackBone Grande rides both.

In five of its most popular miles, the Mickelson Trail here crosses a trestle, eeks through two old railroad tunnels, and runs into Mystic Trailhead, with its water, bathrooms, and sheltered picnic tables. Then it's back on Forest Service gravel to climb USFS Low Standard Road 181 along rambunctious Castle Creek to popular USFS Castle Peak Campground. If you stay there overnight, the pitch out of that campground will certainly wake you up in the morning.

Eventually back on Rochford Road (USFS Primary Road 306), it's worth the sidestep down to the iconic Moonshine Gulch Saloon in Rochford for bar food and drinks. If you happen to ride in on a Sunday night, check out the Sunday Night Jam, an open mike, ad hoc musical event where locals and tourists freely share whatever instruments and talents they bring. Never the same show twice.

Moonshine Gulch Saloon in Rochford, a landmark stop for travelers of all kinds.

The BackBone Grande then wanders west on South Rapid Creek Road (USFS 231) along bucolic meadows framed by thickly forested hills. In about 8 tranquil miles, USFS Black Fox Campground (Mile 178) offers a very nice, developed campground next to the creek.

Then it's onto Black Fox Camp Road (USFS 233), five of my favorite miles of back country road anywhere. This packed dirt road gently climbs along a meandering stream patrolled by busy beavers working dense stands of willow. As the valley narrows, pine trees give way to towering cliffs. It all ends far too soon.

Chunky pitch up USFS Low Standard Road 631.2.

A bonus awaits. After all, this is this BackBone Grande. Connecting Black Fox Camp Road (USFS 233) and Long Draw Road (USFS 209) is a little unnamed gem that starts with about 3 miles on relatively mild USFS Low Standard Road 631 and then morphs into Road 631.2 for the next 3 miles or so. Time for some chunky monkey. Not all of it is uphill, but there may be some hike-a-bike here.

Then, it's mostly downhill on relaxing Long Draw Road that leads to delightful USFS Hanna Campground. Just a few downhill miles further lies Cheyenne Crossing (Mile 203), with a cafe, some re-supply, and possible lodging.

That's the BackBone Grande (Miles 114-203) from Custer to Cheyenne Crossing.

The Heart of the Hills.

Next Up. Into the Northern Black Hills past Roughlock Falls, small mountain resorts, USFS campgrounds, and popular hiking/mountain biking trailheads. Down to the full service town of Spearfish and out to Belle Fouche National Wildlife Refuge. Almost all on primo Forest Service roads. Almost. On the BackBone Grande, there's going to be a Low Standard, or lower, connector. You know there is.

For earlier, related posts, see Introducing A Bikepacking Route - The BackBone Grande; (Miles 0-46) - Buffalo Gap National Grasslands; (Miles 46-114) - Open Range Buffalo. For a digital map, see BackBone Grande Digital Map.

Sunday, May 14, 2023

BackBone Grande (Miles 46-114) - Open Range Buffalo

Picking up the route from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands at Mile 46, the BackBone Grande turns onto 2 miles of pavement on lightly traveled U.S. Highway 18. A limited re-supply opportunity lies just 1 mile off-route to the west in the small rodeo town of Oelrichs, which offers a small, but moderately stocked C-store, two bars, and a primitive, self-service RV park.

Buffalo roam free throughout Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park.

Then, it's generally north through rolling ranch land, hopscotching the small towns of Smithwick, Oral, and Buffalo Gap. These roads carry some local traffic, so they can have more gravel, some washboard, and even pot holes. A few residents occupy these towns, but the only commercial establishment is the Buffalo Gap Trading Post, which offers a bar with refreshments but little else.

Although this land shows more human activity than the ghost town of Ardmore, many small cemeteries mark the pioneers' time and toil here over the years. It's a harsh life on the prairie.

Fall River County Road 6291 crossing the Cheyenne River en route to Buffalo Gap.

At the town of Buffalo Gap (Mile 74), the BackBone Grande turns west on Fall River County 7-11 Road to wind up Beaver Creek into the Black Hills through "buffalo gap." When buffalo freely roamed the Great Plains, those around these parts would move up from the prairie through this gap to winter in the more sheltered forested hills. Just imagine thousands and thousands of buffalo making their way up this narrow valley.

7-11 Road is a well developed, well traveled county road across private land, with more than the average amount of traffic, at least for gravel roads in the Southern Black Hills. But it's historic, scenic, fast, only 5 miles, and, importantly, it's our entry into the Black Hills through Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park.

Fall River County 7-11 Road looking west toward the buffalo gap.

Now, we're diving in the deep end. Turning off 7-11 Road onto Red Valley Road (Fall River County 5), the BackBone Grande ventures north past a couple of cattle ranches before entering Wind Cave National Park. Just to the west, the hills bump upward toward higher elevations and dense stands of pine trees. This is buffalo country.

I ride into Wind Cave National Park at least a couple of times every year and see buffalo every time. Every single time. Stay alert. Keep your distance. Check your speed. If you see cinnamon colored calves, increase your distance and decrease your speed. Stop, if appropriate. And always look for that one, big, solitary bull, separate from all the rest, who watches and protects the whole herd. These are wild animals, as fast and quick as a horse, but much bigger and with horns. Not to be underestimated.

Public Service Announcement from the National Park Service.

Riding north over Boland Ridge, the rough dirt road NPS 6 drops directly into Custer State Park, where even more buffalo roam. The paved Wildlife Loop is a tourist favorite that passes the Buffalo Corrals, where the State Game, Fish & Parks conducts an annual, very popular Buffalo Roundup in late September. It's worth returning just for that. There's nothing quite like witnessing 1,300 buffalo thundering over a ridge toward you. See, Buffalo Roundup.

About 2 miles up the Wildlife Loop, the Wildlife Station Visitor Center (Mile 89) offers water, bathrooms, shade, and a few refreshments in a vending machine. Not much, but it's a nice break after 15 miles of generally shadeless uphill since Buffalo Gap.

NPS 5 looking toward Boland Ridge and then Custer State Park to the north.

Time to climb a little up Lame Johnny Road and then over to Fisherman Flats Road. Both are good gravel roads that wind through Custer State Park for tourists to venture a little bit more into the back country. But it's not heavily traveled, at least not by cars. Buffalo still roam this transitional area from prairie to forest, as do pronghorn, deer, and even elk.

As Fisherman Flats Road reaches into the forest, the BackBone Grande peels off onto Custer Trail 1. Although called a "trail," Trail 1 is a fun, little two track that skirts a few ridges for about 3 miles to reconnect with Lame Johnny Road higher up. Nothing like a little known, little traveled old road to dive a little deeper into the Black Hills.

A quick descent bottoms out at French Creek Horse Camp (Mile 99). This is a very popular state park campground, and may be full, but there's always water, bathrooms, shade, and a friendly campground host. There almost certainly will be horses all over. Tread lightly.

Trail 1, a two track traverse in Custer State Park.

A steady climb out of French Creek Horse Camp tops out by paved U.S. Highway 87, with Blue Bell General Store and Blue Bell Lodge (Mile 102) for some re-supply, meals, and possible lodging. A half mile later, a picnic area parking lot leads to a pedestrian bridge revealing barely recognizable single track heading north. This unmarked single track path can become a bit overgrown, but generally follows along French Creek without crossing it.

In less than a mile, this little gem enters Black Hills National Forest, for possible disperse camping. It then connects to USFS Low Standard Road 408 to reach Hazelrodt Picnic Area and graveled USFS Lower French Creek Road 342.

One final pitch up rough USFS Low Standard Road 341 reaches a rocky ridge with views of the Cathedral Spires, a collection of granite spires drawing rock climbers from all over. Then a bouncy downhill lands on a paved bike path paralleling U.S. Highway 16A for a short cruise into Custer.

Yes, that's the BackBone Grande route, at least for about a mile.

County gravel, National Park Service dirt, pavement, State Park gravel and two track, barely single track, Forest Service Secondary and Low Standard Roads, and a paved bike path. Much of it through free roaming buffalo country. All in 68 miles.

That's the BackBone Grande (Miles 46-114) from Buffalo Gap National Grasslands to Custer, through Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park, with a few choice connectors. You're now in the Black Hills.

Next up. A Greatest Hits Album of Black Hills back roads. Deep into the Heart of the Hills on the renowned Mickelson Trail for views of Crazy Horse Memorial and later through tunnels, favorite Forest Service back roads spiked with granite outcroppings crawling with marmots, big views of 7,242' Harney Peak, the highest peak east of the Rockies and west of the Alps, a restored gold mine, iconic Moonshine Gulch Saloon, and both Castle Peak Road and Black Fox Camp Road to top out at historic Cheyenne Crossing. Best of the best.

For earlier, related posts, see Introducing A Bikepacking Route - The BackBone Grande; (Miles 0-46) - Buffalo Gap National Grasslands. For a digital map, see BackBone Grande Digital Map.

Sunday, May 7, 2023

BackBone Grande (Miles 0-46) - Buffalo Gap National Grasslands

Right from the start, the Grande delivers a Great Divide type of bikepacking experience. In the first 46 miles, the route pokes right into the main street of a ghost town, flies across rolling ranch land on graveled county roads, and then dives deeply into primitive National Grasslands on barely built and practically unmarked dirt two track. There awaits water and the freedom of disperse camping. Let's go!

Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, Miles 31-45 of the BackBone Grande.
A whole lot of what you see here.

The BackBone Grande starts at the Nebraska border, just a mile and a half south of the ghost town of Ardmore, South Dakota on paved Highway 71. Don't expect re-supplies here, as the town all but dried up decades ago. Abandoned buildings dot a handful of lumpy streets, punctuated by shells of rusting vehicles scattered across long neglected lots. A closer look reveals some signs of recent activity and a newer volunteer fire building sits on the main street. Perhaps a few people still live here. Or maybe it really is a town of ghosts.

Crossing into South Dakota, less than 2 miles to gravel.

That little bit of pavement into Ardmore will be the last for awhile, as the route turns east on county graveled Ardmore Road. This is your rhythm section. Enjoy cruising through 30 miles of sparsely populated, little traveled Western South Dakota ranch country.

Stay alert. I've seen all sorts of critters along that road, including pronghorn, deer, elk, coyote, fox, skunk, prairie dogs, eagles, and hawks. There's more than cattle out there.

Riding east across rolling ranch land on Ardmore Road.

At about Mile 30, the BackBone Grande hits U.S. Highway 79 for a mile long jog to Wilcox Road, a county Minimum Maintenance Road that crosses private ranch land with a sign screaming NO OUTLET! If you're riding the Grande, keep riding. In just 2 miles, Wilcox Road accesses Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.

Now, it's no longer a "Minimum Maintenance Road" by the county, but a full-on, two track "Low Standard Road" by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Ahead lies twelve miles of rough road nirvana to Limestone Butte Reservoir.

In just a few miles, MMR Wilcox Road enters Buffalo Gap National Grasslands.
Disregard the "NO OUTLET" sign. Where we're going, we don't need outlets.

Oh, my.

Wilcox Road abruptly turns into the much rougher Buffalo Gap National Grasslands Low Standard Road 7026. This is amazing. Barely built, soft dirt two track rolls across primitive prairie, with big views all around, hinting of the distant Black Hills on the horizon. This landscape instantly transports you into a different world, far away in time and space. Civilization fades into the distant past.

Road 7026 is a public road on public lands that initially crosses into, and out of, pockets of private land. Open and close the occasional cattle gate as you pass through. If you can't tell from the signs or don't have a detailed map to identify private land, just stay on Road 7026 until about Mile 36, when you see some water tanks and pass through another cattle gate. From there on to Limestone Butte Reservoir at Mile 44, you're completely in Buffalo Gap National Grasslands, with practically unlimited disperse camping.

Several cattle gates over the 12 miles on BGNG Road 7026 to Limestone Butte Reservoir.

Road 7026 bumps along ridge lines and crosses ravines. Nothing long or steep, but it is starkly exposed to the elements. More bluntly, there are no trees or other source of shade, cover, or wind break. And there is no surface water, other than a string of cattle tanks and two small reservoirs of Bennett Main Dam (0.7 miles off route at Mile 41) and Limestone Butte Reservoir (Mile 44).

It is not well marked. Better stated, there are very few signs of any kind. In addition, over the course of 12 miles, many two tracks meander off Road 7026 and very few of those intersections are marked. In general, Road 7026 is the most "developed" two track, at least until it runs into Road 7022 at about Mile 39. At that spot, there's a cattle tank and Road 7026 takes a 90 degree turn north, while more heavily traveled Road 7022 goes straight east. I found my way with a paper map and compass. For the digitally dependent, I created a map that is publicly available on RideWithGPS. Just pay attention.

In any event, the area is not large. Two well developed roads (U.S. Highway 79 and FRC 3S), just 10 miles apart, run parallel to each other and frame the western and eastern boundaries of this area. So, it's not hundreds of miles to civilization. It just looks like it. And feels like it.

One of the few signs marking BGNG Low Standard Road 7026.

For this post, I scouted Road 7026 in the second week of April 2023, a little over a week after it received a foot of snow. It was bone dry, soft, and almost powder-like in spots. With a little rancher traffic and some heat, I suspect that dirt will harden significantly. In any event, if loaded for bikepacking, I would ride my Jones 29+ mountain bike with 2.35 inch tires.

If wet, Road 7026 would be an entirely different beast. If windy, hang onto your helmet. If hot, mind your water. Over time, this stretch will create memorable challenges. I can't wait to hear the reports.

Big views to the North, with a bit of the Black Hills on the horizon.

Disperse camp most anywhere in the National Grasslands and filter water at the reservoirs or cattle tanks. For a slightly more refined experience, continue north from Limestone Butte Reservoir on Road 7026 for about 2 miles to paved U.S. Highway 18 and then about 3 miles west to the small rodeo town of Oelrichs (about a mile off-route). Oelrichs offers a moderately stocked C-store, two bars, and a primitive, self-service RV park.

Limestone Butte Reservoir at Mile 44 for disperse camping.

Welcome to South Dakota on the BackBone Grande! These early miles are unlike anything else around and feel like a glimpse into the Great Basin on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. But it's uniquely Buffalo Gap National Grasslands and it's your beginning of the BackBone Grande.

Know that many more gems lie ahead.

Next up. Through Buffalo Gap into Wind Cave National Park and Custer State Park en route to the full service town of Custer.

For an earlier, related post, see Introducing A Bikepacking Route - The BackBone Grande. For a digital map, see BackBone Grande Digital Map.

Sunday, April 30, 2023

Interview with a Bikepacker - Craig Groseth

The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route calls.

With summer fast approaching, I see a steady stream of new views of my blog posts about riding the Great Divide. It looks like many bikepackers are out there preparing for their own adventure.

There are many ways to answer this call.

In 2022 alone, three cyclists I know rode the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route in three very different ways. Local fast guy Colin Schindler raced the Tour Divide from the Grand Depart in Banff to Antelope Wells to finish in 19 days. Endurance athlete Kate Geisen rode North Bound with her adventure racing teammate Chuck Vohsen on a self-described "Choose-Your-Own Adventure" tour. Cycling buddy Paul Brasby rode the GDMBR route south bound from Rawlins to Abiquiu, as he continued his journey of riding sections as his time allows.

They shared their experiences in my previous posts. Colin Schindler; Kate Geisen; Paul Brasby.

Colin, Kate, and Paul answered a lot of questions to share their Great Divide with me and to encourage others to create their own Great Divide experience. I appreciate that and told them that I would so the same. For reference, I toured the ACA GDMBR route from Roosville, MT to Antelope Wells, NM in 7 weeks in 2021, the first half with Paul Brasby and the second half solo.

Dispersed campsite in an aspen grove deep in the Colorado Rockies.
(photo by Raymond Breesz)

1. The Decision

Why the GDMBR? The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route appeared on my long term radar when it was first announced in 1998. What a grand adventure to ride on remote gravel and dirt roads, through the American West, along the Continental Divide, self-supported, for 2,500 miles! Bikepacking the GDMBR. Twenty three years later, I lived that dream.
Why self-supported? I backpacked during college/grad school and always enjoyed the challenge of carrying what I needed, or finding it along the way.
Why not a guided tour? I love the freedom of deciding when, where, and how long to ride, and everything else that comes with it, including all the logistics. For example, one day I stopped at 10:00 am to stay at Brush Mountain Lodge, but another day rode past sunset to camp on the Continental Divide atop Marshall Pass. That freedom raises the stakes to prepare thoroughly, remain attentive, and make solid decisions, but is immensely fulfilling.
Why south bound? Mike McCoy designed the route to be ridden south bound. That spoke to me.
Why with another? I planned to ride the entire route solo, but was excited that cycling friend Paul Brasby joined me for the first 1,300 miles. So, I enjoyed both a memorable shared experience with a friend on the first half and a cherished solo ride on the second half.
How did your family and friends react? My immediate family and closer friends were not surprised, as I had been talking and writing about this for several years.

So, this is part of a dream ride? Absolutely.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

2. Planning

What did you do to plan? Analyzed every detail on the ACA maps and cue sheets. Read Mike McCoy's book thrice. Studied the Project 1 of 7 Data Sheet. Read every article and journal on the Great Divide that I could find. Watched every video I could find. Listened to those who had previously ridden it. Anticipation.
What was your overall approach to the ride? On the morning of the start, I realized to my chagrin that I had not sorted that out very well in advance. It became this. Enjoy the day, with everything that comes with it, and give yourself a chance to ride the next day. Living A Dream; Give Yourself A Chance.
What was your biggest concern? The unknowable unknown. The biggest was how I would respond, physically and mentally, to the demands of riding a loaded bike, up and down mountains on remote rough roads, 10-12 hours a day, every day for weeks, while being on my own for navigation, water, food, shelter, maintenance and repair of both bike and body. I eventually realized that I could not prepare for all that. I just had to do it.

On local M-Hill single track for a final check of my loaded Jones 29+.

3. Preparation

What was the best training to prepare? Many short bikepacking rides to dial in bike and gear, body and mind. Many hours pedaling a fully loaded bike. In 2019-2020, I bike packed over 20 overnighters, several two nighters, and a weeklong ride of the Cloud Peak 500 with Paul. In the first 6 months of 2021, I rode my Jones 29+ mountain bike over 500 miles unloaded and another 1,000 miles fully loaded, mostly in chunks of 40-60 mile days on rolling gravel roads.
What training would you do differently next time? Not much. Perhaps more focus on the mental.
Do you have a favorite piece(s) of gear? SmartWool base layers, Showers Pass Refuge rain jacket, Big Agnes Copper Spur 1 UL Bikepack tent, Revelate Design bags, Oakley M-frame prescription sun glasses, Beadreaux's Butt Paste.
What gear would you do differently next time? Not much. Great Divide Gear List & Changes.
Any bike modifications for next time? No. Great Divide Bike & Changes.

Crawling up the final pitch of Fleecer Ridge, I gather myself in a lonely patch of shade.
I'd like to say this picture was staged. (photo by Paul Brasby)

4. The Experience

Favorite people story? Many Trail Angels brightened many days. But Marlene and Paul Fifield of Condon, Montana impacted my experience most profoundly. Trail Angels Marlene & Paul.
Favorite camp spot? Practically every dispersed campsite was memorable. Some that stand out are Clearwater Lake in Montana, an aspen grove high above Radium, a small clearing next to the Continental Divide Trail atop Marshall Pass in Colorado, and a rare dry spot in the midst of a patch of wild flowers on the Continental Divide in New Mexico.
Best food? The steak dinner hosted by Trail Angels Marlene and Paul was unbelievable. My best burger of many was a Green Chili Cheeseburger at Pie Town Pies. My most satisfying meal was a room temperature can of Bush's Original Baked Beans and a bag of Frito's at the La Garita Cash Store, with an ice cold, fully loaded Coke chaser, followed by a mountain of hand scooped, homemade ice cream.
Most relaxing day? My day at Brush Mountain Lodge, where I stopped at 10:00 am and simply decided to share the day with Kirsten and whoever happened by. Every cyclist stopped, even some day riders from Steamboat Springs. Her blueberry pancake breakfast was heavenly.
Toughest day? Day 12 out of Wise River. Hands down. Mind and body were toast. After 34 brutal miles, I stopped for the day at Elk Horn Hot Springs. Needed a serious re-set. Thereafter, all good. A Hard Start.
Hardest climb? Of many difficult climbs, the hardest for me was the 27 mile climb up Polvadera Mesa from Abiquiu, NM. And the descent was no carefree cruise. The Toughest Climb.
Favorite part of the route? New Mexico. By then, I had sorted out all sorts of physical and mental issues and worked through many challenging days. Across the wild remoteness of New Mexico, I rode further, faster, longer, higher, and more comfortably every day, even as the roads and conditions deteriorated significantly. There I fully realized that I belonged out on the Great Divide. Three Days Of The Gila.

A late monsoon season brought daily rain, but one reward was the desert in full bloom.
Yes, this is southern New Mexico in the first week of September 2021.

Favorite road? USFS Low Standard Road 665 southwest of La Garita, Colorado. A dusty, two track dirt road winding between rough rocks through a desert valley. Straight out of a John Ford Western. Ennio Morricone theme songs playing in my head. Enchanting.
Least favorite road? 10 miles on paved Colorado State Highway 9 into Silverthorne. Narrow two lane road filled with a continuous torrent of fast, rude, distracted drivers. Worst road, worst drivers, worst 10 miles of my entire ride. The best part of that experience was the stiff headwind that brought afternoon showers to cool my discontent.
Best weather? Three days of massive tailwinds from Strawberry Safety Shelter atop Union Pass to Boulder, to Atlantic City, and to A&M Reservoir. A flat out joyous crossing of the Great Basin. Into The Great Basin.
Worst weather? My most challenging weather day was my second day in Gila National Forest, where I was in the wrong place at the wrong time for the impetuous arrival of an ill-mannered monsoon that turned my road into a river. Three Days Of The Gila.

USFS Low Standard Road 665 rides into the Old West.

Best decision? To take a Zero Day at Grand Teton National Park. As forecast, a first thunderstorm blew in late morning with lightening and heavy rain. After a short respite, a second thunderstorm blew in late afternoon with more lightening and heavy rain. If we had left Grand Teton that morning, we would have been riding up a long, exposed, rain-soaked Togwotee Pass and setting up a dispersed camp in lightening and cold rain at altitude. Instead, we were warm and dry inside a laundromat eating pizza and ice cream. A close second was our decision to stop early after cresting Union Pass to stay in the Strawberry Creek Safety Shelter, rather than tacking on a few miles to disperse camp in active grizzly country at the aptly named Mosquito Lake.
Worst decision? Starting the climb up Polvadera Mesa at 10:30 am. Although I did help another bikepacker with a mechanical in Abiqui that morning, I really just let time slip away while devouring breakfast burritos and coffee at Bode's. That climb is hard enough without riding it in the heat of the day. The Toughest Climb.
Posting on social media? Nothing at all during the ride. Plenty afterwards. Here's a page with links to all my social media and blog posts. Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (2021).

Early morning climb on the Great Divide somewhere in Montana.
(photo by Paul Brasby)

5. Conclusions

Anything different next time? I would love to ride the Great Divide north bound, just because.
Overall thoughts? An unforgettable experience that I highly recommend. Living A Dream. A part of me is still out there, and likely always will be.
What next? Bikepacking with friends, including a new bikepacking route that I created that crosses the State of South Dakota on some favorite roads through the Black Hills. The BackBone Grande.

Nothing like it.

Sunday, April 23, 2023

Interview With A Bikepacker - Paul Brasby

The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route calls.

With summer fast approaching, I see a steady stream of new views of my blog posts about riding the Great Divide. It looks like many bikepackers are out there preparing for their own adventure.

There are many ways to answer this call.

All three of them offered to share their experience. Here's Paul's perspective on his ride.

Railroad engineer Paul Brasby loving the abandoned Yellowstone Branch Line rail-to-trail in Idaho.

1. The Decision

Why the GDMBR? It's been on my Bucket List for some time now. The whole reason I started bikepacking was to ride the GDMBR at some point. I've always wanted to ride across the country since I was a kid. Riding on back roads and along the Great Divide was very intriguing to me.
Why self-supported? I love the challenge of self reliance. It's you, your bike, and the route. Not to mention what Mother Nature can and will throw at you along the way. You're totally immersed in the journey this way. The decisions you make effect how smoothly your adventure goes. It's a game of chess with all the factors at play. Whether they work with you or against you is totally up to you!
Why not a guided tour? The thought of a paid tour group is not me. I grew up in a backpacking family. Hiking in the mountains for days or weeks at a time with everything we needed just feels right to me. In a group tour setting, you are locked into a time schedule and regiment. No thanks! I'd be okay with a Grand Depart for the start, then settle into my own rhythm. Maybe ride with a smaller group after that.
Why south bound? The GDMBR was designed to be ridden South Bound. That's why I rode it that way. I would be open to a North Bound ride at some point.
Why with another? For me, the main reason was that a friend of mine (Craig Groseth) had the same goal and timeline as I did. Riding together was the plan for the first half of the trip. For my second half, I rode with my friend Mark Hoffman through most of Colorado before riding solo into New Mexico. Sharing the experience with a friend and safety in numbers in bear country were factors as well.
How did your family and friends react? They took it in stride. This adventure was definitely the next step in bikepacking for me. They all knew what I was building towards.

THIS is why I came out here! (An oft-repeated Paul Brasby line throughout Montana).

2. Planning

What did you do to plan? Hours of research on the route with ACA maps, books, videos and GPS downloads. Did bear research as well, picked what I thought was the best bear spray for me, and how I planned to carry it on my bike. I also did food research in local C-stores and small grocery stores. Even took food home and made meals with the food I found. It helped me out on the route. I knew exactly what I wanted instead of surfing the aisles.
What was your overall approach to the ride? I wanted to have an open mind to daily changes I may encounter. I didn't want to be locked into a schedule. I wanted to listen my body, the route, and the weather and have the ability to adjust on the fly without needing to be at a said location each day. I planned the first few days out on the route and then did a 2-3 day out plan for the rest of the trip. I needed to ride 50-ish miles a day to get to my extraction point in Rawlins, Wyoming. I also tried my best to never go into the red or limit the times if I did. To ride today in a way that allows me to ride again tomorrow (A Craig Groseth quote that rings true for me to this day).
What were your biggest concerns? Do I have the right fitness/training for such an adventure? Dealing with bears if that ever came to light. Logistics - how to get to the start and plan for pickup at the halfway point, since I couldn't give my brother a for sure pickup date. Can I carry enough water? Bike breakdowns or catastrophic failure. Body fatigue or crash resulting in rescue on the route. I had my brother on standby and he was willing to drive anywhere to pick me up if need.

Now, THIS is why I came out here!

3. Preparation

What was the best training to prepare? For two years, I rode 100 miles a week. Craig and I bike packed together off and on to gain the experience and knowledge necessary for such an endeavor. In 2020, we rode the Cloud Peak 500 in Wyoming in eight days, followed by a six day Black Hills Bounty tour in South Dakota. We rode a handful of overnight rides at organized events and several overnighters on our own. I also rode last year with a partially loaded bike and increased the load as the ride got closer. The last three months I rode with an 80 percent loaded bike and the last month with it fully loaded.
What training would you do differently next time? Not much, if anything.
Do you have a favorite piece(s) of gear? I was very happy with my camp kit. (See, Paul's Great Divide Gear List). My Showers Pass rain coat. My Salsa waterproof Anything Bag where I stored my camp kit. All my Revelate bags!
What gear would you do differently next time? From my first half ride to my second half ride, I changed my battery pack to a larger capacity. I also changed my headlight to a brighter one, due to the time of year I was going to ride the second half. I planned to ride at night more in New Mexico to beat the heat. I really like the simplicity of my Big Agnes Fly Creek 1 man tent, but I'm thinking about upgrading to the 2 man Copper Spur for its room and ease of entry.
Any bike modifications for next time? On the first half, I rode a stock 2019 Salsa CutThroat with a 34 tooth chain ring and an 11 speed 11-42 cassette. For the second half, I changed my chain ring from a 34 to a 32. I would love to change my rear cassette to a 12 speed Eagle 10-52. May as well buy a new bike instead? If I did, it would be a new Salsa CutThroat with that Eagle 10-52.

Cresting Fleecer Ridge, Paul approaches the long anticipated descent.

4. The Experience

Favorite people story? Without a doubt, Paul and Marlene on Day 4. The best Trail Angels I've ever encountered. (See, Trail Angels Marlene & Paul).
Favorite camp spot? I have two. On my first half, Clearwater Lake in Montana and, on my second half, Horse Shoe Campground at the base of Ute Pass in Colorado. I also have two special overnights with friends, both taking place on my second half. We stayed with Andrew Miller and his family in Steamboat Springs, sharing stories of our adventures well into the evening and camping in their backyard. We also stayed at the Como Hospitality Bunkhouse, where Craig Groseth met us with a home cooked meal. (See, Como Bunkhouse).
Best food? Our steak dinner at Paul and Marlene's home!
Most relaxing day? For the first half, Colter Bay at Grand Tetons National Park, our only rest day. For the second half, La Garita Cash Store in Colorado. We arrived early in the day and left late the next morning. We didn't want to leave.
Toughest day (first half)? Our day up and over Fleecer Ridge. My most anticipated day of the trip! I was so looking forward to conquering Fleecer on this day! But I woke up with dead legs and spent most of the day in my granny gears with tons of climbing. We made it and I enjoyed the one hour hike-a-bike down the other side and the descent into Wise River.
Toughest day (second half)? At the Ranger's Station in El Rito, New Mexico, I found out that my father-in-law passed away, resulting in my departure of the route from Abiquiu on Day 12. I plan to return in 2024 to finish the last 9 days to Antelope Wells.
Hardest climb? From Highway 26 to the top of Union Pass, that I could ride. Brazos Ridge, that I couldn't ride.
Favorite part of the route? All of Montana!

Spectacular views on Brooks Lake Road.

Favorite road? This one took me totally by surprise. We left Colter Bay, rode up and over Togwotee Pass, and shortly after turned left onto Brooks Lake Road. This amazing road overlooks the Pinnacle Buttes Mountain Range. I stopped so many times to take pictures and soak it all in. It was a great way to finish off the day!
Least favorite road? A 13 mile stretch of paved road on County Road 63 northwest of Rawlins, Wyoming in the Great Basin. We fought a 20-25 mph headwind that seemed forever to get across.
Best weather? Overall, I was very lucky weather-wise, on both halves of my ride. At Colter Bay, we took a rest day, due to an all day weather event. The first half was amazing and, when we needed a tailwind across the Great Basin, we got it. We made up for lost time to meet up with my brother on my planned departure date. My second half was helped with calm or tailwind days with clear skies for 12 straight days. It only rained on us 3 times with afternoon showers during the second half.
Worst weather? We had a close call with a dry lightening strike on the south side of Lynx Pass in Colorado. Mark and I both felt the discharge in our left arms. We also had several hours of cold rain on the south side of Indiana Pass.

Flying across the Great Basin in Wyoming.

Best decision? Reading the day! Just because you can ride further or faster on any given day, doesn't necessarily mean you should. Calculated and steady riding helps to increase your chances of making it to Antelope Wells. Body and mind burnout is real on the trail. We saw this happen first hand, where riders quit suddenly and went home. If you push too hard in either category, your chances of finishing greatly diminish.
Worst decision? Mailing my rain pants home at Wise River. I wished I had them for an all day rain event at Colter Bay.
Posting on social media? During the first half of my ride, I posted on my FaceBook page every day when I had service. I rode longer days on my second half and posting was more difficult. I'll continue to do it in some fashion in the future. It was a great way to share my experience in real time with family and friends.

Paul Brasby atop Boreas Pass in Colorado. (photo by Mark Hoffman).